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Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel

 
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel Reply with quote

At 12:58 PM 10/30/2009, you wrote:
Quote:


Hi!

I crimped my first wire last night. I have a Crimpaster with a
30-579 die set in it. I hadn't realized that this set is
specifically made for insulated terminals. Put the terminal in so it
is sticking out of the side with the red, blue, and yellow sizes
stamped on it. Squeeze until the ratchet releases, and I have two
crimps with one pull, one crimp for the wire and the other for the insulator.

Ideal tech support verified this is the correct way, but they didn't
know if this die for insulated terminals could be used for
uninsulated terminals, also. It looks like the crimp bay for the
insulation would be narrower than that for the wire. This means when
using it for a non-insulated terminal, the closest crimp to the
terminal end ('1st crimp') would be good, but the '2nd crimp' using
the insulation bay would smash it too much. Doesn't seem like it would work.

I forgot to ask about open barrel terminal crimping with this tool.
I've got a few of those, but haven't tried any crimping yet.

Ideal lists part #30-586 for a 'non-insulated open barrel' die and
30-580 for 22-8 AWG non-insulated terminals. Would these work? Seems
like I would have been better off just getting a crimper that makes
one crimp at a time.

EACH tool's die needs to be tailored to EACH terminal's
crimping requirements. No single tool installs insulated,
uninsulated, and open-barrel terminals. See various
illustrated articles on http://aeroelectric.com . . .

Uninsulated terminals are recommended ONLY for fat
wires where you'll want to ADD insulation support
with beefy heatshink after crimping or soldering
the terminal.
Bob . . .

---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------


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messydeer



Joined: 13 Feb 2006
Posts: 214
Location: Bellingham, WA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open bar Reply with quote

Thanks, Bob Smile

I would have used insulated terminals, but they don't make faston insulated terminals for 8AWG. I already have the wire, so need to go with what they make, uninsulated open barrel faston receptacles with separate ears for wire and insulation. I've seen the open barrel crimpers with butt-cheek pockets, but I don't have very many of these connections, so I'm thinking I could use my cheapo GB crimper. It only goes down to 10awg, but since it's not a cycling crimper, it might work. Or I could bend the tabs over individually using a pair of pliers.
Another issue I have is figuring out which end goes where with the Crimpaster for PIDG terminals. The left side of the tool have dies shaped like flying saucers and are coded with numbers and colors for size. The right side ones are more elliptical. The right side also is a little narrower than the left. So the terminal sticks out the left side and the wire goes in from the right?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 2:36 pm    Post subject: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel Reply with quote

At 12:54 PM 10/31/2009, you wrote:
Quote:


Thanks, Bob Smile

I would have used insulated terminals, but they don't make faston
insulated terminals for 8AWG.

8AWG is too large for fast-on. I don't recommend this
technology for anything larger than 12AWG/20A in airplanes.
The largest fuse/wire combo I'd recommend on a fuse-block
is 15Amps/14AWG. This is a de-rating thing to accommodate
the aircraft environs.

Quote:
I already have the wire, so need to go with what they make,
uninsulated open barrel faston receptacles with separate ears for
wire and insulation. I've seen the open barrel crimpers with
butt-cheek pockets, but I don't have very many of these
connections, so I'm thinking I could use my cheapo GB crimper. It
only goes down to 10awg, but since it's not a cycling crimper, it
might work. Or I could bend the tabs over individually using a
pair of pliers.

Where are you needing to put an 8AWG to a fast-on tab? 8AWG
implies loads upwards of 40A. I'd stay in threaded fastener
and ring terminal world for this much current.
Quote:
Another issue I have is figuring out which end goes where with the
Crimpaster for PIDG terminals. The left side of the tool have dies
shaped like flying saucers and are coded with numbers and colors for
size. The right side ones are more elliptical. The right side also
is a little narrower than the left. So the terminal sticks out the
left side and the wire goes in from the right?


This is explained in the last panel of:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html
Bob . . .

---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------


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messydeer



Joined: 13 Feb 2006
Posts: 214
Location: Bellingham, WA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 3:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open bar Reply with quote

Quote:
Where are you needing to put an 8AWG to a fast-on tab? 8AWG
implies loads upwards of 40A.


Sonex plans show using 8AWG for the power distribution circuit. I have a Jabiru 3300 that puts out between 13A and 20A, depending on which set of their numbers you use.

The two alternator leads end in female fastons. Can't see the gauge, but they're a little bigger compared to a piece of 12awg wire with insulation when held next to it.

The voltage regulator has 6 wires, all with faston terminals. The size of these wires are also covered, but they look to be about the same size as my 12AWG wire.

So I'm thinking it would be best to get 12AWG for this circuit and use fastons. It would be ~3' between the filter capacitor and my main bus, both of which have posts. Would 10AWG be better for this section?

Quote:
This is explained in the last panel of:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/CrimpTools/crimptools.html


I saw this in that article:

As a general rule, tools with unsymetrical dies will have a smaller, closed-die cross section on the wire grip side.

which sounds like it would apply to the Crimpmaster.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Crimpmaster for insulated, non-insulated, and open barrel Reply with quote

At 05:47 PM 10/31/2009, you wrote:
Quote:

> Where are you needing to put an 8AWG to a fast-on tab? 8AWG
> implies loads upwards of 40A.
Sonex plans show using 8AWG for the power distribution circuit. I
have a Jabiru 3300 that puts out between 13A and 20A, depending on
which set of their numbers you use.

The two alternator leads end in female fastons. Can't see the gauge,
but they're a little bigger compared to a piece of 12awg wire with
insulation when held next to it.

The voltage regulator has 6 wires, all with faston terminals. The
size of these wires are also covered, but they look to be about the
same size as my 12AWG wire.

So I'm thinking it would be best to get 12AWG for this circuit and
use fastons. It would be ~3' between the filter capacitor and my
main bus, both of which have posts. Would 10AWG be better for this section?

20A is handled nicely on 12AWG wire which will
fit into a yellow PIDG faston.
Quote:
As a general rule, tools with unsymetrical dies will have a smaller,
closed-die cross section on the wire grip side.

which sounds like it would apply to the Crimpmaster.

Correct


Bob . . .

---------------------------------------
( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
( appearance of being right . . . )
( )
( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
---------------------------------------


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