Ed Anderson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 475
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 Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:36 am Post subject: Thicker Rotors was Brake Fire wasBrakes |
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Hi Dave
Yes, I did install the thicker rotors on my RV-6A. I really love the solid
feel I now have. Since they are twice the mass, the same amount of heat
energy only raises the rotor temperature approx 1/2 of the thinner rotors -
helps keeps the seals from cooking as well as helping to prevent temps high
enough to set off the brake fluid.
Aircraft Spruce at one time (and may still) offered a thicker rotor kit
#199-93 assembly. However, at the time it was close to $350 and I decided
to see if I could do better (did!).
The Cleveland/parker part number for the thicker rotor disc is 164-09900.
However, I used the Rappco part RA 164-09900 from Chief Aircraft for $84.00
each
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/Brakes/BrakeDiscs.html
That was the expense 2 * 84 = $168 for both rotors, the rest of the fittings
I made in my shop. There were the 1/8" pad spacer described below and the
longer aluminum bushings to stand off the wheel pant. At the time I made
up some new wheel pant brackets out of SS since I had lost one on the burnt
up wheel pant.
Now some of the more recent RVs (such as the 8s) have a slightly different
brake set up due to the plate gear rod - so this may not apply to them.
Otherwise, pretty straight forward.
You do have to have a 1/8" (0.125") shim plate to place between the two pad
holders to compensate for the thicker rotor for each wheel. If you buy them
they cost about the same as the rotors, the cheapest I could find were
$84.00 EACH - which I though absurd given the rotors only cost $85 each. So
I made mine out of 6061-T6 1/8" aluminum plate/sheet. They will have to be
curved on the underside (axle edge) to match the curvature of the rotor -
but not a big job. The most critical thing (and not that hard) is to make
certain the holes in the plate match the pad holes - you don't want the
spacer binding. Took me approx 30 minutes to make both. I anodize them
for corrosion resistance.
Also, I had to lengthen the aluminum tubes used to stand off the wheel pant
attachment bracket by approx 1/8" otherwise the thicker rotor wanted to rub
on the bracket. Again, no biggie.
I also switched to stainless steel braided Teflon brake lines, they give the
brakes a much more solid feel and much less likely to rupture. I personally
will never go back to the aluminum lines myself - but that is just my
personal viewpoint, thousands are flying with them.
Hope this helps
Ed
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
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_________________
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com |
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