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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
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 Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:44 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Rick Neilson C
I believe you suggested a cure for me C when I think you meant to direct it to Rick Lewis. He is the one with the water-cooled VW engine.
Herb C (I changed the subject line to reflect the present answer)
I have the three cylinder C 1000cc GEO Metro engine C with Raven Redrive's reduction unit C Ivo in-flight electric operated prop.
I am sorry to say that I have been building on my Kolb MkIII for way too many years. A whole lot of lousy reasons have kept me from finishing it....until recently. The whole plane is VERY close! The paint is finished C except for stripes. The engine is finished except for reinstallation of the wiring harness and gauges. 90% done C only 90% to go!
I have been building my new home (1200 ft from the local airport). My wife and I moved in the day before Thanksgiving. I'm not 100% done C but I only have a few "minor" things to wrap up...about two weeks worth of "projects"(closet shelves and such). I put my plane on hold until the house is finished. I can't do both. Too old C I guess. Or just plain too tired to burn the candle at both ends.
Anyway C the deal was....build the house C and then you can take time off to finish the Kolb. Not much longer to go! I should be back to work on my plane in January.
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished C running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock C except for the redrive conversion C and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research C talked to quite a few guys C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header C exhaust outlet C
intercooler ducting C and in general C my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car) C he he he C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group C the Suzuki cars high performance bunch C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear C another highly recommended improvement.
So C here's what I have now!! A stock internally C except for the mild race cam and gear C engine. Plus C my own turbocharger installation C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods C so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness C install the panel C double check everything C and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself C but according to a few guys I've chatted with C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy C but you asked. I'm gabby C what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote:
| Quote: | John H C
Yes C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block C you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down.
How far is "too" far C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But C since this is "experimental" C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned.
As an example of what I'm getting at; normally C when you start your car/truck/tractor C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice C and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker.
But let's say C for the sake of argument C you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No C the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were.
As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger C to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow C if we engineer a new system C we definitely want to make sure it works.
Mike W
lectric.com
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ebuilthelp.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
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ronics.com
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herbgh(at)nctc.com
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 7:03 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
[quote] I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet,
intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement.
So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
John H,
Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down.
How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned.
As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker.
But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were.
As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works.
Mike W
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:23 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Herb C
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression C I just don't know what it means. But C since my engine is bone stock C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say C around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks C they eat C sleep C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work C they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
| Quote: | I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished C running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock C except for the redrive conversion C and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research C talked to quite a few guys C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header C exhaust outlet C
intercooler ducting C and in general C my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car) C he he he C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group C the Suzuki cars high performance bunch C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear C another highly recommended improvement.
So C here's what I have now!! A stock internally C except for the mild race cam and gear C engine. Plus C my own turbocharger installation C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods C so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness C install the panel C double check everything C and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself C but according to a few guys I've chatted with C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy C but you asked. I'm gabby C what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote:
John H C
Yes C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block C you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down.
How far is "too" far C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But C since this is "experimental" C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned.
As an example of what I'm getting at; normally C when you start your car/truck/tractor C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice C and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker.
But let's say C for the sake of argument C you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No C the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were.
As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger C to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow C if we engineer a new system C we definitely want to make sure it works.
Mike W
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
lectric.com
/">www.buildersbooks.com
ebuilthelp.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
ronics.com
|
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. [quote][b]
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herbgh(at)nctc.com
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:43 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
[quote]Herb,
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet,
intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement.
So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up.
I don't claim anything [/u]until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: John H, Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
[b]
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:13 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Hi Herb C group C
I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine C too C or it'll hit the crap pile rickety tick. Old military expresion. (But C I doubt that it'll come to that!)
Yes C there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on trikes C for some unknown reason. ??
More answers. 2.25 to 1 C if I remember correctly. Ivo three blade C 69". I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds C or less. C which means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O. rpm.
I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation. A 3 to 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??). Way too big for the pusher application C I think. It'd work great on a tractor style taildragger C tho.
Like I said C I should be able to get back to work on the plane in January. One of the first things I will do is get the engine running. I'll definitely let those that care a full report.
BTW C I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static thrust. Anyone??? Anyone??
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Kolb engines
Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote:
| Quote: | Herb C
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression C I just don't know what it means. But C since my engine is bone stock C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say C around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks C they eat C sleep C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work C they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished C running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock C except for the redrive conversion C and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research C talked to quite a few guys C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header C exhaust outlet C
intercooler ducting C and in general C my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car) C he he he C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group C the Suzuki cars high performance bunch C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear C another highly recommended improvement.
So C here's what I have now!! A stock internally C except for the mild race cam and gear C engine. Plus C my own turbocharger installation C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods C so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness C install the panel C double check everything C and fire it up.
I don't claim anything [/u]until I see it for myself C but according to a few guys I've chatted with C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy C but you asked. I'm gabby C what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote: John H C Yes C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block C you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But C since this is "experimental" C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally C when you start your car/truck/tractor C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice C and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say C for the sake of argument C you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No C the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger C to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow C if we engineer a new system C we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
lectric.com
/">www.buildersbooks.com
ebuilthelp.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
ronics.com
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Hotmail: Trusted email with Micros7141664/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. [quote][b]
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herbgh(at)nctc.com
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:40 pm Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Static thrust can be measured by using a die spring... I came across it when I was designing a die spring landing gear for my N3 Pup...
Here is the message from some years ago..on the N3 Pup list...
"I discovered that a 10 inch
> blue
> >die spring will make a static thrust tester. Just a ruller
> with
> >tenths of an inch scale and the die spring and some sort of mount would
> be
> >all that is necessary. The die spring deflects(compresses ) .1 inch for 10lbs
> of
> >pull--eg: 2.5 inches for 250 lbs---3.5 for 350 lbs and 4.5 for 450
> lbs.
> >it would have to be mounted and used in compression mode. I would
> >suggest a holder built much like the die spring landing gear . "
I think the id was 3/4 inch...just google die springs and you will come up with charts and all the info ..
Otherwise a commercial scale can be had...Herb
At 11:09 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
[quote]Hi Herb, group,
I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine, too, or it'll hit the crap pile rickety tick. Old military expresion. (But, I doubt that it'll come to that!)
Yes, there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on trikes, for some unknown reason. ??
More answers. 2.25 to 1, if I remember correctly. Ivo three blade, 69". I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds, or less., which means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O. rpm.
I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation. A 3 to 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??). Way too big for the pusher application, I think. It'd work great on a tractor style taildragger, tho.
Like I said, I should be able to get back to work on the plane in January. One of the first things I will do is get the engine running. I'll definitely let those that care a full report.
BTW, I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static thrust. Anyone??? Anyone??
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Kolb engines
Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
Herb,
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!! Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs! I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement. So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up. I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!" I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say? Mike Welch MkIIICX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: John H, Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
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Dana
Joined: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 1047
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:37 am Post subject: Kolb engines |
|
|
At 11:22 PM 12/16/2009, Mike Welch wrote:
| Quote: | | I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! |
A car with a turbo would be turbocharged, raising the manifold pressure above 1 atmosphere. Turbo normalizing is for aircraft; there is zero boost at sea level but the turbo keeps the manifold pressure at sea level normal even at high altitudes.
-Dana
--
As I learn the innermost secrets of the people around me, they reward me in many ways to keep me quiet. [quote][b]
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Michael Sharp
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 118
Location: Oak Grove, MO (Kansas City)
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:25 am Post subject: Kolb engines |
|
|
Mike,
There was an article in either Kitplanes, Sport Pilot, or the other EAA rag about a thrust measuring device. I'll see if I can dig it up and scan it for ya...
Mike, (the other one in Missouri with a Geo eng on a Kolb!)
--- On Wed, 12/16/09, Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb engines
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 11:09 PM
Hi Herb, group,
I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine, too, or it'll hit the crap pile rickety tick. Old military expresion. (But, I doubt that it'll come to that!)
Yes, there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on trikes, for some unknown reason. ??
More answers. 2.25 to 1, if I remember correctly. Ivo three blade, 69". I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds, or less., which means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O. rpm.
I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation. A 3 to 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??). Way too big for the pusher application, I think. It'd work great on a tractor style taildragger, tho.
Like I said, I should be able to get back to work on the plane in January. One of the first things I will do is get the engine running. I'll definitely let those that care a full report.
BTW, I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static thrust. Anyone??? Anyone??
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Kolb engines
Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | Herb,
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet,
intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement.
So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: John H, Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
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slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 6:45 am Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Herb, Mike is close; 2.26:1(Raven) Normally aspirated (no huffer) with a single barrel carb mine starts putting out decent power at 5300 rpm.The torque curve is quite broad with a peak at 3800 and HP top at 5500. Mike's reground camshaft should improve that for aircraft use.
I feel Mike should limit boost to short duration climb and altitude normalization. Just a little should add a good kick in the pants.
I don't think they had knock sensors on the Metros or Sprints.
It would be nice to have one a dyno to do some tweaking.
BB
On 16, Dec 2009, at 11:41 PM, Herb wrote:
[quote] Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | Herb,
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet,
intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement.
So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: John H, Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:22 am Post subject: Kolb engines |
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Bob C Herb C Thom and group C
Oh C THAT turbo-normalized! Ok C I read up on it. No C my engine is not turbo-normalized. Just the regular type turbo. I chose a Garrett GT1544. This turbo is made especially for engines in the 1000cc to 1300cc range. It's kinda small C about the sized of a large coffee mug C maybe a little bigger C but not much. Evidently lots of guys put these on motorcycles.
Yes C as Bob recommends C boost will likely be limited to T/O full power runs mostly. Regarding knock sensors C that's why I'm limiting boost to just 8 psi (by way of adjustable wastegate spring setting). I also have the cam gear (redrill) modification. This will help with that.
I did quite a bit of research before putting this thing together. I had lots of questions I wanted answered before I began to make my own turbo installation. Questions like; how can I regulate the extra needed fuel when on boost? How will I monitor all the engine's internal functions C especially EGT and boost level and air/fuel ratio C and a host of other issues.
I had to feel I could handle all these questions before I could embark on my own turbo. I feel I have comfortably answered all my questions C and have accomodated them sufficiently.
Will it all work?? Can't say just yet. Will it be worth the effort and cost? I'm not sure.
I know one thing C though. IF it works as planned C it ought to be a nice package!! If it doesn't work as planned C well C we won't go there just yet.....
I do want to point out one thing. I will be limiting boost to no more than 8 psi. That is slightly more than 1/2 of 1 atmosphere (which is 14.7 psi at sea level) 8 psi boost should increase performance about 50% above the base engine's power. 8 psi boost is NOT a lot of boost. This would be considered mild in automobile terms. All this boost stuff will be worked out on the ground....long before any flight testing is discussed!!!
Youtube has dozens of those turbo geeks types that have installed monster turbos on GEO engines C putting out in excess of 150 HP( for an engine that has a stock HP of 62!). I think I read a few guys have taken this engine to more than 200 HP. Not very wise for an airplane C though C but sure makes for a screamer on the street.
Pleasant day to all C Mike Welch
From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
Date: Thu C 17 Dec 2009 09:45:00 -0500
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Herb C Mike is close; 2.26:1(Raven) Normally aspirated (no huffer) with a single barrel carb mine starts putting out decent power at 5300 rpm. The torque curve is quite broad with a peak at 3800 and HP top at 5500. Mike's reground camshaft should improve that for aircraft use.
I feel Mike should limit boost to short duration climb and altitude normalization. Just a little should add a good kick in the pants.
I don't think they had knock sensors on the Metros or Sprints.
It would be nice to have one a dyno to do some tweaking.
BB
On 16 C Dec 2009 C at 11:41 PM C Herb wrote:
| Quote: | Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes...
more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb
At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote:
| Quote: | Herb C
Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection.
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression C I just don't know what it means. But C since my engine is bone stock C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to!
Here's why;
A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem.
But C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say C around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment.
According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks C they eat C sleep C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work C they know their "stuff"!
Mike
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer?
Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb
I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished C running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock C except for the redrive conversion C and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!!
Two years ago C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research C talked to quite a few guys C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header C exhaust outlet C
intercooler ducting C and in general C my OWN custom installation.
The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car) C he he he C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs!
I joined the "Teamswift" chat group C the Suzuki cars high performance bunch C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear C another highly recommended improvement.
So C here's what I have now!! A stock internally C except for the mild race cam and gear C engine. Plus C my own turbocharger installation C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods C so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness C install the panel C double check everything C and fire it up.
I don't claim anything until I see it for myself C but according to a few guys I've chatted with C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!"
I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January.
I know. A little wordy C but you asked. I'm gabby C what can I say?
Mike Welch
MkIIICX
Date: Wed C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
From: herbgh(at)nctc.com (herbgh(at)nctc.com)
Subject: RE: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike
Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...)
At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009 C you wrote: John H C Yes C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block C you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But C since this is "experimental" C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally C when you start your car/truck/tractor C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice C and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say C for the sake of argument C you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No C the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger C to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow C if we engineer a new system C we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
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