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rear spar caps- must read

 
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partner14



Joined: 12 Jan 2008
Posts: 540
Location: Granbury Texas

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:13 am    Post subject: rear spar caps- must read Reply with quote

Bill is right on... Jeff using the file is fine, but finish EVERYTHIG off with the grinder held scotchbrite wheel or the small scotchbrite wheels shown below. I forgot where I got mine, and hadn't got around to ordering more, so I've been making due with the little nubs that I've got left. Order the "kit", you won't be sorry.  Best and easiest way to deburr everything.
Don McDonad

--- On Thu, 1/14/10, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:

Quote:

From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Re: rear spar caps
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 7:00 AM

--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)>

Jeff Carpenter wrote:
Quote:
Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge at different angles.
The vixen file seems to be the ideal tool for dressing the edges of tail/wing skins. I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen' and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics). A very useful tool and very basic technique for skin deburring. Very productive.


I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to be by far the tool I use the most. Still do. I'm on my second wheel at 3+ years of a 4 year QB. The drill press thing sounds good - never thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and de-mount it all the time. On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine. Mounted a regular grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.

The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too. Have worn one out, on number 2. I used Avery's 3700 but I think I got it from Cleaveland:
[b]http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.marums.matronics.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin==========



[quote][b]


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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:42 am    Post subject: rear spar caps- must read Reply with quote

Quote:

Quote:











---





TOOL GUIDE


DRILL PRESS: A tall
upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks
you in the chest and
flings your beer across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project
which you had carefully set in the corner where
nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws
them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes
fingerprints and
hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time
it takes you to ay,
'Oh sh --'

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make
studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes
used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used
to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on
the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a
crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its
course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to
completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also
be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for
lighting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for
igniting the grease inside
the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a
bearing race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly
used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an
automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes,
trapping the jack handle
firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily
used by most shops to
cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that
more easily fit into
the trash can after you cut on the inside of the
line instead of the
outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the
maximum tensile strength of
everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the
vacuum seals under lids
or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and
splashing oil on
your shirt; but can also be used, as the name
implies, to strip out
phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint
cans. Sometimes used to
convert common slotted screws into non-removable
screws and butchering
your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal
surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a
50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too
short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the
hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most
expensive parts
adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the
contents of cardboard
cartons delivered to your front door; works
particularly well on
contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in
plastic bottles,
collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or
plastic parts.
Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but
only while in use.

SON OF A BITCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab
and throw across the
garage while yelling 'Son of a bitch' at the top of
your lungs. It is
also, most often, the next tool that you will
need.





















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On Jan 14, 2010, at 9:12, Don McDonald <building_partner(at)yahoo.com (building_partner(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:

[quote]Bill is right on... Jeff using the file is fine, but finish EVERYTHIG off with the grinder held scotchbrite wheel or the small scotchbrite wheels shown below. I forgot where I got mine, and hadn't got around to ordering more, so I've been making due with the little nubs that I've got left. Order the "kit", you won't be sorry. Best and easiest way to deburr everything.
Don McDonad

--- On Thu, 1/14/10, Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)> wrote:

Quote:

From: Bill Mauledriver Watson <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)>
Subject: Re: Re: rear spar caps
To: [url=mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com]rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)[/url]
Date: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 7:00 AM

--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Mauledriver Watson <[url=mailto:MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com]MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com (MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com)[/url]>

Jeff Carpenter wrote:
Quote:
Though the scotch-brite wheel is very useful, I ultimately found that skins and long parts that were difficult to get to the wheel were easily deburred with a large vixen file run a few times along an edge at different angles.
The vixen file seems to be the ideal tool for dressing the edges of tail/wing skins. I had no idea what it was or how to use it but I described what I found out in a post - search the archives for 'Vixen' and look for my post (I can't find the supporting pics). A very useful tool and very basic technique for skin deburring. Very productive.


I found that the scotchbrite wheel in a floor mounted bench grinder to be by far the tool I use the most. Still do. I'm on my second wheel at 3+ years of a 4 year QB. The drill press thing sounds good - never thought about the axis thing but I wouldn't want to have to mount and de-mount it all the time. On the bench grinder, I first had a coarse and fine wheel - found just the coarse is fine. Mounted a regular grinding wheel in the other for the little bits of steel work we do.

The little SB wheel in the die grinder is very handy when needed too. Have worn one out, on number 2. I used Avery's 3700 but I think I got it from Cleaveland:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-351-43-scotch-brite-cutting-http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank>http://www.marums.matronics.com/" ; -Matt Dralle, List Admin==========



Quote:


href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution


[b]


- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

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