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ricksked(at)cox.net
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 Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:44 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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IMHO.....that's a good way to make your doors bulge or even break from expansion of the foam Also consider that the foam isn't that light either...
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:15 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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It will bulge your doors. It will cure in certain areas first then the uncured stuff will continue to expand and push on the already cured stuff.
If the door weren't pink C it would look like the stay puff marshmellow man by the time it finishes curing.
| Quote: | Subject: doors & insulation
From: davidbf(at)centurytel.net
Date: Sun C 17 Jan 2010 20:21:40 -0800
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
--> RV10-List message posted by: "rvdave" <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
I've completed the assembly of the doors and now wish I would've insulated inside. I'm thinking about squirting some minimal expanding foam to insulate and solidify the door. Has anyone done that or can see any reason not to do this?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac C MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282022#282022
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scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:00 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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Dave, I like what Van says, "just buy the best noise reduction headsets".
In a way he is correct. What I have found is that the inside of the RV-10 it is very quiet compared to many other airplanes.
I also have found that the majority of my door noise comes from the hinges on the top. If I put my hands over them it is even more quiet.
Someday that will be my next project. I would not worry about sound proofing the inside of the doors just think about isolating the noise around those hinges if you want. The hinges are also very close to your ears.
Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
From: rvdave <davidbf(at)centurytel.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, January 17, 2010 9:21:40 PM
Subject: doors & insulation
[quote][b]
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johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 6:29 am Post subject: Re: doors & insulation |
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| Quote: | | I also have found that the majority of my door noise comes from the hinges on the top. If I put my hands over them it is even more quiet. |
Scott,
Since you brought it up, is there any draft from the hinges?
John
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scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.co
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:49 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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No, I don't feel any draft on the top hinges. I would be there is a low pressure over the top of the fuselage but I don't feel air.
I do have a door seal there but it is not as tightly sealed at that point and you can hear that very high pitch sound of air.
Scott Schmidtscottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 7:29:06 AM
Subject: Re: doors & insulation
[quote][b]
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AV8ORJWC
Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:23 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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An Ultrasonic sniffer can find exactly where the sound is emanating from. If the fasteners are the culprit, wet sealing with proseal (or VANS flamemaster) and re-installing the fasteners can make a difference. It is encouraging to know the 10 is quieter than many airframes.
John Cox
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 7:49 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: doors & insulation
No, I don't feel any draft on the top hinges. I would be there is a low pressure over the top of the fuselage but I don't feel air.
I do have a door seal there but it is not as tightly sealed at that point and you can hear that very high pitch sound of air.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 7:29:06 AM
Subject: Re: doors & insulation
[quote] [/b][/b][/b][/b][b]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List[b][/b][b]http://forums.matronics.com[b][/b]http://www.matronics.com/contribution [b]
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robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:25 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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John,
I have the Overhead console with a cut out around the door lift
bracket and I definitely have a draft coming from the pressurization of
the OH console through the bracket cutouts and through the cutout for
the center windshield post. I plan to add some silicone to these areas
once I get either motivated or cold enough from the draft.
Robin
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:00 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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I wonder if deems and robin and anyone else that uses
He mcmaster carr seals have this issue. Maybe the seal on the cabin and the filler pieces over the hinges help this.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:13, "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com (johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com)> wrote:
[quote]
An Ultrasonic sniffer can find exactly where the sound is emanating from. If the fasteners are the culprit, wet sealing with proseal (or VANS flamemaster) and re-installing the fasteners can make a difference. It is encouraging to know the 10 is quieter than many airframes.
John Cox
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 7:49 AM
To: [url=mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com]rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)[/url]
Subject: Re: Re: doors & insulation
No, I don't feel any draft on the top hinges. I would be there is a low pressure over the top of the fuselage but I don't feel air.
I do have a door seal there but it is not as tightly sealed at that point and you can hear that very high pitch sound of air.
Scott Schmidt
[url=mailto:scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com]scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com (scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com)[/url]
From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)>
To: [url=mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com]rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)[/url]
Sent: Mon, January 18, 2010 7:29:06 AM
Subject: Re: doors & insulation
0[/b]1234[/b]56789[/b][/b]
[b] [/b]
[b] [/b]
[b] 0[/b][/b]
[b]
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RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:15 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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If you cover the hinges on the door :
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC06158.html
And use the McMaster Carr seal.
I promise you you will get NOTHING in around the doors. Not Air, Water,
Nitrogen, Helium, Carbon Monoxide, Carbon Dioxide, or Sub-atomic
particles 
Deems Davis
N519PJ
www.deemsrv10.com
Seano wrote:
| Quote: | I wonder if deems and robin and anyone else that uses
He mcmaster carr seals have this issue. Maybe the seal on the cabin
and the filler pieces over the hinges help this.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:13, "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
<mailto:johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>> wrote:
> An Ultrasonic sniffer can find exactly where the sound is emanating
> from. If the fasteners are the culprit, wet sealing with proseal (or
> VANS flamemaster) and re-installing the fasteners can make a
> difference. It is encouraging to know the 10 is quieter than many
> airframes.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Scott
> Schmidt
> *Sent:* Monday, January 18, 2010 7:49 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Re: doors & insulation
>
>
>
> No, I don't feel any draft on the top hinges. I would be there is a
> low pressure over the top of the fuselage but I don't feel air.
> I do have a door seal there but it is not as tightly sealed at that
> point and you can hear that very high pitch sound of air.
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com <mailto:scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net
> <mailto:johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>>
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Mon, January 18, 2010 7:29:06 AM
> *Subject:* Re: doors & insulation
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List**
> *
> ****
> *
> **
> *
> **
> **http://forums.matronics.com**
> *
> ****
> *
> **
> *
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> **
> ****
> ****
> **
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
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robin1(at)mrmoisture.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:25 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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My door seals great with the simple bridge across the hinge cut out area. It’s the OH console that leaks for me. McMaster seals work well.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: doors & insulation
I wonder if deems and robin and anyone else that uses
He mcmaster carr seals have this issue. Maybe the seal on the cabin and the filler pieces over the hinges help this.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:13, "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com (johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com)> wrote:
01234567890123456789 | Quote: | | href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
0
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.145/2626 - Release Date: 01/18/10 07:35:00
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speckter(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:42 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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How about hyperbole, will it leak in?
Gary Specketer
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ricksked(at)cox.net
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:51 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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No, but a laid back bowl may...
Do not archive
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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aerosport1
Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:50 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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I used the McMaster Carr seals and they work great as Deems said. I have no
leaks around anything I sealed off my overhead completely around the strut
mount as well. I made covers over the hinge area on the doors so my door
seals all the way around. At first I thought the extra time I spent putting
the
McMaster carr seals on was not worth the effort but now Flying I am very
glad I did it. My cabin is very quite and I have no air noise or air leaks.
I would do it again.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
--
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Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033 |
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:57 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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That's good because I am reading this with my mask, goggles and
earmuffs sanding on the cabin door gutters making them fit the seal.
Not the funnest thing in the world.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 18, 2010, at 12:50, "Geoff Combs"
<g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com> wrote:
[quote]
>
I used the McMaster Carr seals and they work great as Deems said. I
have no
leaks around anything I sealed off my overhead completely around the
strut
mount as well. I made covers over the hinge area on the doors so my
door
seals all the way around. At first I thought the extra time I spent
putting
the
McMaster carr seals on was not worth the effort but now Flying I am
very
glad I did it. My cabin is very quite and I have no air noise or air
leaks.
I would do it again.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
--
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40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:33 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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Seano wrote:
| Quote: |
That's good because I am reading this with my mask, goggles and
earmuffs sanding on the cabin door gutters making them fit the seal.
Not the funnest thing in the world.
Sent from my iPhone
I'm thinking that's good to hear too. I was going for the simple foam
|
seals from McMaster which, after a test fit, I think would work easily
and well. Clearly the simplest solution.
But because I want to cover the door with all the nice interior finish
stuff from Flightline, I need to either stick with the Vans stock seal
on the door (kind of ok if they work) or the fancy McMaster seals on the
canopy which will clearly give the best looking finish. And if they
work well too, well, there's another pile of FG work waiting for me.
Any tips on fitting them on the gutter is appreciated.
Bill "bouncing around doing 100 things" Watson.
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msausen
Joined: 25 Oct 2007
Posts: 559
Location: Appleton, WI USA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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Bill, I wouldn't be surprised if I spent 50 hours of the 110 or so I spent on the doors tearing down the door gutters and rebuilding them back at the correct thickness and angles. There is no question that once fitted, the seals on the gutters give the best fit and finish but are also a whole lot more work!
Michael
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jdriggs49(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 2:01 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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Geoff C can you post the model number for the M.C. seals you are using? Thanks C Dan
[quote] From: g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Re: doors & insulation
Date: Mon C 18 Jan 2010 14:50:37 -0500
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Geoff Combs" <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>
I used the McMaster Carr seals and they work great as Deems said. I have no
leaks around anything I sealed off my overhead completely around the strut
mount as well. I made covers over the hinge area on the doors so my door
seals all the way around. At first I thought the extra time I spent putting
the
McMaster carr seals on was not worth the effort but now Flying I am very
glad I did it. My cabin is very quite and I have no air noise or air leaks.
I would do it again.
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester C Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
--
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aerosport1
Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231
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| Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2010 3:27 pm Post subject: doors & insulation |
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This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area and it made the
edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but good results.
11 1120A411 50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" Bulb Width
Geoff
Geoff Combs
President
Aerosport Modeling & Design
8090 Howe Industrial Parkway
Canal Winchester, Ohio 43110
614-834-5227p
614-834-5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
--
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_________________
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033 |
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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 2:34 am Post subject: doors & insulation |
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Interesting. Someone else had mentioned using 1120A311 which I
purchased. I have the older green top and find that most of the edges
are 1/4" or better. The only section that is consistently less than
1/4" is the bottom sill.
I'm guessing that the newer pink top is a bit thinner and more
consistent in edge thickness if you had to build them up. I've been
trying to figure out how to grind much of my edges down to 3/16" to fit
the A311.
So, I think I'm going to get 30' of the A411. Given the added thickness
of the headliner abric that will be underneath it, I think that will be
easier to work with.
Thanks
Bill
Geoff Combs wrote:
| Quote: | This is what I used Danny. I used the 1/4" edge. I built all my edges
up with fiberglass to put some strength back in the door frame area
and it made the
edge trim fit much better. It was a ton of work as Michael said but
good results.
11 1120A411
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=859151940559946&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist>
50 Ft. Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8"
Bulb Width
Geoff
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