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B&C Alternator

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terrycalloway(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:12 am Post subject: B&C Alternator

Hi Gang,

I have about 110 hours on my M14 and the other day the alternator light came on.  After going thru the trouble shooting checklist I decided to pull the alternator and check to see if the coupling had sheared.  Sure enough it had but only because it had dropped down to the point the alternator was only sticking into the shear coupling about 1/16th of an inch and the pins just shaved the top of the coupling.  The fit was tight enough that when the prop was turned you could see the alternator still turning.



Yesterday I installed a new coupling and could clearly see it was short.  Sure enough, I started the engine and after warmup idling about 6 minutes the same thing happened again.



The alternator turns freely when it is off the engine.



Has anyone experienced this?

tc

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cjpilot710(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:44 am Post subject: B&C Alternator

Terry,

  

 I suggest you give B&C a call.  It may be they sent you the wrong  coupling.  I had a similar thing happen however it was due to the type of  material they made the coupling with.  They got a whole batch of couplings  made with a white Teflon type material and were failing quite early.  The  newer ones had a green color and so far (about 300 hours for me) have done  well. You should get more engagement with the coupling than a 1/16 of an  inch.  B&C is very good about their products.  They may have the  answer.  I know that your engine was modified by Barrette,    Could it be that during the mod something was changed that effect the coupling  engagement?  I am frankly guessing about that part.

  

 JIm "Pappy" Goolsby

  

  

  In a message dated 1/15/2010 9:12:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  terrycalloway(at)mac.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Yak-List message posted by: Terry Calloway    <terrycalloway(at)mac.com>



Hi Gang,

I have about 110 hours on my    M14 and the other day the alternator light came on.  After going thru the    trouble shooting checklist I decided to pull the alternator and check to see    if the coupling had sheared.  Sure enough it had but only because it had    dropped down to the point the alternator was only sticking into the shear    coupling about 1/16th of an inch and the pins just shaved the top of the    coupling.  The fit was tight enough that when the prop was turned you    could see the alternator still turning.



Yesterday I installed a new    coupling and could clearly see it was short.  Sure enough, I started the    engine and after warmup idling about 6 minutes the same thing happened    again.



The alternator turns freely when it is off the    engine.



Has anyone experienced  ========================  e  ties  Day  ================================================               - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS  ================================================             - List Contribution Web Site  sp;                             ===================================================



	


  [quote][b]

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terrycalloway(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:59 am Post subject: B&C Alternator

Thanks Jim,I have been talking to B&C.  I already have the green coupling. They admit it may be too short and are asking to consider putting  a teflon shim at the base of the male spline shaft to rest on.  Sounds scary to me and am asking Barrett to consider same.  No modifications were made to this part of the engine case.  No additional horsepower can be gained there. 

B&C also stated a guy in Arizona had a similar problem and the male spline wore a whole in the top of the plug it sits on allowing oil to escape.  I don't know how this problem was fixed.

tc

On Jan 15, 2010, at 8:43 AM, cjpilot710(at)aol.com (cjpilot710(at)aol.com) wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		    Terry,

  

 I suggest you give B&C a call.  It may be they sent you the wrong  coupling.  I had a similar thing happen however it was due to the type of  material they made the coupling with.  They got a whole batch of couplings  made with a white Teflon type material and were failing quite early.  The  newer ones had a green color and so far (about 300 hours for me) have done  well. You should get more engagement with the coupling than a 1/16 of an  inch.  B&C is very good about their products.  They may have the  answer.  I know that your engine was modified by Barrette,    Could it be that during the mod something was changed that effect the coupling  engagement?  I am frankly guessing about that part.

  

 JIm "Pappy" Goolsby

  

  

  In a message dated 1/15/2010 9:12:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  terrycalloway(at)mac.com (terrycalloway(at)mac.com) writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Yak-List message posted by: Terry Calloway    <terrycalloway(at)mac.com (terrycalloway(at)mac.com)>



Hi Gang,

I have about 110 hours on my    M14 and the other day the alternator light came on.  After going thru the    trouble shooting checklist I decided to pull the alternator and check to see    if the coupling had sheared.  Sure enough it had but only because it had    dropped down to the point the alternator was only sticking into the shear    coupling about 1/16th of an inch and the pins just shaved the top of the    coupling.  The fit was tight enough that when the prop was turned you    could see the alternator still turning.



Yesterday I installed a new    coupling and could clearly see it was short.  Sure enough, I started the    engine and after warmup idling about 6 minutes the same thing happened    again.



The alternator turns freely when it is off the    engine.



Has anyone experienced  ========================  e  ties  Day  ================================================               - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS  ================================================             - List Contribution Web Site  sp;                             ===================================================



	


   	  Quote:

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ChangDriver

Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 266

Posted: Sun Jan 17, 2010 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: B&C Alternator

Terry:



Remove the alternator by removing it from the baseplate that you will leave on the engine (just like you did to check the shear coupling).  Look down into the pinion gear that drives the alternator.  It should have a plug in the bottom of it (the M-14 gear has one, the Housai gear does not).  That plug supports the male splined shaft for the alternator.  If the plug is in good shape, use a digital caliper to measure the length of the male splined shaft from the tip of the shaft to the base of the alternator mounting plate.  Then compare this to the depth of the hole in the pinion gear to the top of the mounting plate and compare them.



If these measurements are very different, check the backlash on the pinion gear.  It should have a small amount of movement up and down.  Just stick your finger in it and lift it and push it back in place.

The gasket between the engine and baseplate allows for some backlash.  



Then check the thickness of the gasket between the alternator mount and the baseplate.  If it is too thick, it will allow the splined shaft to drop out of the coupling.  These gaskets, or lack of them, will set the depth of the male alternator drive shaft in the pinion gear.



Hope this helps,



Craig

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