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Vans conduit again

 
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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:44 am    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).

First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?

Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.

Thanks in advance,
Bill

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tsts4



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:09 am    Post subject: Re: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Bill,
No grommet is required as the corrugations will hold the conduit in-place, sort of like the whole thing was one really long grommet. Some place a little dab of RTV or proseal at the conduit/rib interface to insure it doesn't move around.

As for enlarging the tooling hole in those 2 inboard ribs, one solution would be to draw a 3/4 inch diameter circle around the tooling hole. Then using a angle drill adapter, drill around the inner circumference at as many locations as you can, then use a file or nibbler to "connect the dots".

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aka "Auburntsts" on EAA and VAF
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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:48 am    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Yes, I just opened the 5/8” holes up to ľ” and the conduit fits pretty tight.  I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn’t move.

I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances weren’t an issue to me.

Two options that may work:

<![if !supportLists]>1. <![endif]> Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit.   Run it straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
<![if !supportLists]>2. <![endif]>Use a knockout punch.   Home Depot and Lowes have them, but they aren’t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201), which I picked on sale for $10.   You’ll have to hand center and tighten since your hole is already greater than Ľ”.

This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you locate your wiring.   You’ll most likely will need to cut holes in the ribs under the back seat as well.

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Vans conduit again



After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).



First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?



Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.



Thanks in advance,

Bill



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drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:57 am    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
If I remember correctly, I got an extension from home depot and drilled
thru each hole. Had to remove the step bit each time, but it worked
ok. Then deburr the holes.

Dr Fred.
Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
Quote:
After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).

First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do
we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the
ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?

Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.

Thanks in advance,
Bill

do not archive
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coop85(at)verizon.net
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:54 am    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Bill,
On all 3 of my RV projects I opted for PVC pipe, but the installation method would work for you as well. I just suspended it in the large factory holes in the ribs with safety wire attached to the rib above and below the pipe. I would get it started in one small hole, twist to about the middle and wrap the wire around the pipe then continue the twist and tie off at a small hole on the other side of the rib opening (hope that makes sense). Might be a more elegant method to attach it, but it was cheap and easy and has worked great so far.

Marcus
40286

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Vans conduit again



After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).



First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?



Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.



Thanks in advance,

Bill



do not archive
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:08 pm    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked out great.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com (rv(at)thelefflers.com)> wrote:

[quote]
Yes, I just opened the 5/8” holes up to ¾” and the conduit fits pretty tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn’t move.

I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances weren’t an issue to me.

Two options that may work:

1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but they aren’t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201), which I picked on sale for $10. You’ll have to hand center and tighten since your hole is already greater than ¼”.

This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you locate your wiring. You’ll most likely will need to cut holes in the ribs under the back seat as well.

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
To: [url=mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com]rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)[/url]
Subject: Vans conduit again



After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).



First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?



Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.



Thanks in advance,

Bill



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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:55 pm    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
More elegant are the plastic hangars from Home depot .... in the
plumbing section.
I think the safety wire may eat through the rib over time. But what do
I know?
I got the idea from someone else on a list ......
Linn

Marcus Cooper wrote:
Quote:
Bill,

On all 3 of my RV projects I opted for PVC pipe, but the
installation method would work for you as well. I just suspended it in
the large factory holes in the ribs with safety wire attached to the rib
above and below the pipe. I would get it started in one small hole,
twist to about the middle and wrap the wire around the pipe then
continue the twist and tie off at a small hole on the other side of the
rib opening (hope that makes sense). Might be a more elegant method to
attach it, but it was cheap and easy and has worked great so far.



Marcus

40286



*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Billy &
Tami Britton
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Vans conduit again



After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple
quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search
archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).



First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it
is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so,
these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need
snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe
it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?



Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any
quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall
the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a
step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.



Thanks in advance,

Bill



do not archive

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william(at)gbta.net
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 1:54 pm    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Thanks guys. I'll be to town later this week. I'll try to find a drill bit extension for my unibit. Any particular kind of RTV or will any kind work --none of it is harmful to the aluminum is it?

Bill

Do Not Archive


From: Michael Kraus (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Vans conduit again


I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked out great.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com (rv(at)thelefflers.com)> wrote:

Quote:

Yes, I just opened the 5/8” holes up to ¾” and the conduit fits pretty tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn’t move.

I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances weren’t an issue to me.

Two options that may work:

1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but they aren’t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201), which I picked on sale for $10. You’ll have to hand center and tighten since your hole is already greater than ¼”.

This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you locate your wiring. You’ll most likely will need to cut holes in the ribs under the back seat as well.

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy & Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
To: [url=mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com]rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)[/url]
Subject: Vans conduit again



After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).



First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings. If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?



Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars. Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.



Thanks in advance,

Bill



do not archive
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 4:04 pm    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Well, some is. Smell it. If it has a strong odor like vinegar, it has
acetic acid in it. You might take a look at this email
http://yarchive.net/electr/silicone_sealant_corrosiveness.html
for a discussion ..... Google found it under 'silicone acetic acid'.

Linn
do not archive

Billy & Tami Britton wrote:
Quote:
Thanks guys. I'll be to town later this week. I'll try to find a drill
bit extension for my unibit. Any particular kind of RTV or will any
kind work --none of it is harmful to the aluminum is it?

Bill

Do Not Archive

*From:* Michael Kraus <mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 12:21 PM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
*Subject:* Re: Vans conduit again

I used a 3/4" unibit and a combination of 0 to 2 extensions and added
holes after the wings were completed. Took a little doing, but worked
out great.

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2010, at 10:43 AM, "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com
<mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com>> wrote:

> Yes, I just opened the 5/8” holes up to ¾” and the conduit fits pretty
> tight. I also added a dab of rtv to ensure it doesn’t move.
>
>
>
> I drilled my holes before I assembled the wing, so the clearances
> weren’t an issue to me.
>
>
>
> Two options that may work:
>
>
>
> 1. Get an extension that can accommodate your unibit. Run it
> straight through all the ribs in the wing walk area.
>
> 2. Use a knockout punch. Home Depot and Lowes have them, but
> they aren’t cheap. Harbor Freight has a set (
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91201),
> which I picked on sale for $10. You’ll have to hand center and
> tighten since your hole is already greater than ¼”.
>
>
>
> This subject will come up again on the fuselage depending on where you
> locate your wiring. You’ll most likely will need to cut holes in the
> ribs under the back seat as well.
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Billy &
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2010 9:25 AM
> *To:* <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Vans conduit again
>
>
>
> After following the discussion in the last couple weeks on the Vans
> conduit I decided to go that route and ordered some. I do have a
> couple quick questions though. (By the way, I'm not sure how to
> search archives so if these have been answered previously I apologize).
>
>
>
> First, where did you run it in the wing. I assume the place to put
> it is in the holes that were drilled to 5/8" for the snap bushings.
> If so, these holes need drilled to 3/4" for the conduit, correct? Do
> we need snap bushings or what keeps the conduit from chafing on the
> ribs ( maybe it fits tight enough that that's not an issue??)?
>
>
>
> Finally, I've already got my ribs riveted to front and rear spars.
> Any quick suggestions how to drill the #2, 3 ribs to 3/4"? If you
> recall the inside 4 ribs are pretty close so there's not much room to
> get a step drill bit in there on a conventional drill.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
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ricksked(at)cox.net
Guest
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 5:04 pm    Post subject: Vans conduit again Reply with quote
Even better, forgo the conduit and install 3/4" snap bushings and fabricate a wiring harness with heat shrink "keepers" every two foot or so The harness can be pulled if needed and you can install a few spare wires for peace of mind for future use. I was helping a friend run his wing wiring the past few days and I liked this method much better than the conduit that I used. If I would do it again, which I am, this is much better IMHO.

Rick S.
N246RS
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

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