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slyck(at)frontiernet.net
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 Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:12 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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Rick, I like the looks of the MS21042. I think it may have been the AN 365 nut that gave me the problem and not the bolt
but I tossed both of them at the time. The AN363 is beefy but the cut slots may injure the bolt threads over time and repeated use.
Those industrial packing nuts look pretty good too. 
BB
[img]cid:C6F04DC9-AE2F-4D91-9BD1-68C41990E606(at)domain.invalid[/img]
DSCN2202
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williamtsullivan(at)att.n
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| Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 7:24 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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Bob- I'd want to check with Darryl at Warp Drive before using any type of de-formed locknut. The torque on that style nut is drastically different than a nylock nut, without supplying adequate pressure to the secured parts. On some, you can exceed the recommended torque without the nut even pulling tight. Nylocks have a limited service life, as they lose their drag if used a few times. Some places recommend replacing nylocks after only a couple of uses. Be careful, here.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
[quote][b]
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NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:36 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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Bob, Bill, All
I use standard nuts on my prop bolts so that I can get a accurate torque setting. Then I add a Nylock locknut over the prop bolt to keep it safe.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
[quote] ---
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co
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| Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:10 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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Rick,
Your method is pretty close to what I did. I used standard nuts, torqued with a 1/4" drive torque wrench, then a second standard nut, with a tiny daub of Locktite, so the first nut stays tight.
(No Locktite on the first nut to affect torque setting, only on the second one)
Mike Welch
From: NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: prop nuts
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 12:25:42 -0400
Bob, Bill, All
I use standard nuts on my prop bolts so that I can get a accurate torque setting. Then I add a Nylock locknut over the prop bolt to keep it safe.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
[quote] ---
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rickofudall
Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 9:52 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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Bob, The 21042 you have pictured is the -L variant (lubed), the non-lubed version looks just like your packing nut. As for William's contention that a deformed lock nut requires a different torque than that of a nylock just isn't supported by 43.13-1B or anywhere else that I can find. Atached is the spec for the 21042. Note in the table on page 2 the minimum torque a -4 (1/4") nut must be capable of is 150 in lb., 20% more than the spec for the 1/4-28 blade bolts of the WD prop.
Rick
On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 10:07 AM, robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net (slyck(at)frontiernet.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | Rick, I like the looks of the MS21042. I think it may have been the AN 365 nut that gave me the problem and not the bolt
but I tossed both of them at the time. The AN363 is beefy but the cut slots may injure the bolt threads over time and repeated use.
Those industrial packing nuts look pretty good too.
BB
[img]cid:C6F04DC9-AE2F-4D91-9BD1-68C41990E606(at)domain.invalid[/img]
DSCN2202
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rmurrill(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 10:50 am Post subject: prop nuts |
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A standard practice, at least at the two aircraft companies I worked at, was to measure the run on torque during initial tightening and add that number to the design torques for either elastic or mechanical locking fasteners. The torques came from Mil Hdkb-5 or the ASTM as I remember for all..MS, AN, NAS..whatever. The addition technique was company specific in there design manuals, but as memory serves was backed up by alot of testing using both bolt stretch or strain gaged bolt tests.
Bob
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