jindoguy(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:57 am Post subject: More on Nico sleeves |
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I found these instructions for cable construction on the EAA web site from
Ron Alexander:
- Determine the length of cable necessary. This should be stated in
your assembly manual. If not, you can use a stretchless cord the same
diameter as the cable to be installed. Route this cord as the cable will be
routed then mark it for cutting.
- Cut the cable. Invest in a pair of cable cutters. They are
inexpensive and they will save you a lot of time and effort. After marking
the cable, place a piece of masking tape around the cable where the cut will
be made. This will leave a nice even cut and will keep the strands of wire
in place during assembly. Do not cut with a torch or subject the wire to
excessive heat in any way.
- Take the thimble to be used and cut off the 4 tips you will see on
the thimble. This will allow the sleeve to fit more snugly.
- Route the cable through the sleeve and then through the turnbuckle
end fitting or the fitting that is being used. Then route it around the
thimble. ( Remember, copper sleeves for galvanized cable and zinc sleeves
for stainless cable ).
- Place the taped end of the cable through the other portion of the
sleeve to complete the initial assembly. Be sure to leave a sufficient
amount of cable extending past the sleeve=97usually an inch or so.
- The compression process will be easier if you slide a cable clamp
over the loose end of the cable and push it securely against the sleeve.
- Make the necessary compressions of the sleeve as shown in Figure 6.
Cables larger than 3/32inch diameter must have 3 compressions done in the
sequence presented. The first compression is made in the center followed by
a compression next to the sleeve. Then the final compression is made. Before
making the final compression remove the cable clamp. Also, prior to
beginning the first compression, insure that a minimum of 1/8 inch of cable
will protrude out of the sleeve after the assembly is complete. The
compression is better performed with a helper. If no one is available then
clamp one arm of the nicopress tool in a vise. That will allow you to
properly perform the compression without assistance.
- When all three compressions have been completed, use the "go-no-go"
gauge that comes with the nicopress tool to check the width of the crimps.
The widest part of the compression should slide into the appropriate slot of
the gauge. If it does not, it means the sleeve has not been properly
compressed.
- Carefully cut off any excess cable and leave at 1/8" inch protruding
beyond the sleeve. Do not nick the working cable in any way.
- Mark the portion of cable that protrudes with a red paint. This will
allow you to see if any slippage has occurred during subsequent inspections.
You may want to slip a length of clear heat shrink tubing over the cable
before you begin the nicopress crimping. When complete, you then slide the
tubing over the loose end of the cable until it is against the sleeve and
shrink it down. This prevents snagging a hand on the sharp strand ends of
the cable and still allows you to view the red mark for slippage.
- A final recommended step is to test the cable by doing a pull test
up to 60% of the rated strength of the cable. Using the torque-arm formula,
a weight suspended from a beam on a fulcrum may be easily constructed to
perform this test. The rated strength of aircraft cable may be found in
Advisory Circular 43-13. Even if you purchase cables that are already
assembled or have someone swage the fittings the pull test is desirable.
This reminded me that somewhere in all the packed boxes of books was my copy
of AC 43-13. If you don't have a copy and you're building an airplane you
should get one IMHO. Check out Illustration 7-14.
For those lacking a nico press sleeve gauge, I found this one via Google.
http://www.air-techinc.com/prod_cat_item.asp?categoryID=3Dtoolmisc&typ=3Dtools&ID=3D1479
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
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