pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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 Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:11 pm Post subject: high CHTs |
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Start with the simple things ..... check for flashing between the fins
around the spark plug .... place a light underneath the head and look
down between the fins. best done when it's almost dark. A needle file
will clean up the flashing.
Check the sealing around the nose of the engine.
The intake air can also go forward and exit through the spinner/cowl
gap. Use a piece of foam pipe insulation fitted inside the cowl lip
.... the first time you start the engine it'll trim the foam so glue it
in well.
airflow efficiency ...... the differential pressures across the engine
need to be 6 1/2 " H2O for an O-360. Rig a manometer (Google manometer
if you don't know) and go fly. Balancing the inlet Vs outlet can cut
down cooling drag along with getting the temps down.
Also Google 'lycoming manometer' for far more reading than you want.
Let us know what you find out.
Linn
Take a good look at the baffle seal around the nose of the engine.
I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+
years...I have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust
installation: TMX-O360 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can
see CHT's in 430F range or much higher if I did NOT manage power.
Mixture & timing correct. Openned up intake & exhaust areas. Resealed
w/silicone material (replaced black stuff) - tight fit. Plugged all the
little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & recontoured in-let ramps. Spark plugs
the coolest offered...I am measureing with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all
TCs match exactly & agree with ambient temperature (0 to 100 F).
Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold cool OK?". I am
running out of ideas and would appreciate any feedback or ideas.
Thanks...Tony
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