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baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures

 
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Vince Frazier



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 132
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:15 am    Post subject: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures Reply with quote
SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?
Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. Sad

If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use? SNIP

*******************************************************************************************************

Air leaks = more drag. How fast do you want to go.

I've got red silicone plugging every air leak that I can find and I've never, ever had anyone comment on how the silicone looks when I roar past them. It may not be pretty but it WORKS.

FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot.

For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.

Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
www.vincesrocket.com

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Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839 work
812-985-7309 home
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:54 am    Post subject: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures Reply with quote
Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on
the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need a
minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably 3/16
would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder head on
the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run 40-50
degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote:

Quote:
SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary?

Quote:
FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot.

For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm
The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings.

Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
www.vincesrocket.com


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Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD
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jim jewell



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 82
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures Reply with quote
For the 'would be' show quality builders, {[Wink

With a little extra care and attention to detail using masking tape and an
exacto blade the RTV can be done very neatly. I bought a roll of the blue
silicone baffle seal material. It is extra cost but worth every dime spent.
The blue automotive RTV gasket sealer color matches and bonds very well to
the baffle seal material. Have a look at the Firewall forward section at;

http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/index.htm

It only took a day or so to get all the blue stuff off the finger tips.

I can supply close ups,

Jim in Kelowna


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