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Oops! A6 Rivet question

 
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Tim Juhl



Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 4:13 pm    Post subject: Oops! A6 Rivet question Reply with quote

I removed the top skin on my right wing today. Because of some pesky stems that protruded too high I had trouble with a few rivets, resulting in some very slightly enlarged or out of round holes.

I know that in this case others have installed A6 rivets. My question is, did you use countersunk or dome head? If you used countersunk rivets did you pull them with the nosepiece ground for the A5 rivet or make a new one?

Thanks!

Tim


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Brady



Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 182
Location: Poulsbo, WA

PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Oops! A6 Rivet question Reply with quote

Tim,
one of the airplanes I am working on needed some A6 rivets.
I used the counter sunk style and made a new tip for the rivet gun.

If you use an automatic center punch to knock the mandrels down before you drill you will need fewer A6 rivets.

I have posted a Blog on the Zenith Aero site entitled:
CH601XL Up Grades with Magnificent Machine LLC (tricks of the trade)
http://www.zenith.aero/profiles/blogs/ch601xl-upgrades-with

there might be some useful info in there, specifically about tooling for this project.
There is a modified automatic center punch that I modified to punch out the mandrels all together before drilling.
This wasn't my idea but it works very well! Smile

Cheers,


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PatrickW



Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 5:33 am    Post subject: Re: Oops! A6 Rivet question Reply with quote

Tim Juhl wrote:
I know that in this case others have installed A6 rivets. My question is, did you use countersunk or dome head? If you used countersunk rivets did you pull them with the nosepiece ground for the A5 rivet or make a new one?


I used A6 rivets that I bought from Zenith. They are the countersunk type, just like the A4's and A5's we already use, just a little bigger. I bought a bigger hand riveter and ground out one of the nosepieces that came with it.

For removing the pre-existing rivets, I used one of those $3 "spring punches". I ground down the tip so it could fit into the holes in the rivets. For each rivet I would punch down the stem, and then using a drill bit *larger* than the existing rivet, I would carefully drill into the rivet head until it popped off (without touching the underlying skin or enlarging the existing hole). Then most rivets could be pushed out the rest of the way with a second pop from the spring punch. Stubborn ones got drilled out with a smaller drill so as to not enlarge the existing hole.

A4's are harder to remove than A5's, as A4's more often tend to "spin". To get around that, I carefully drill into their heads at an acute angle until the heads come off.

It took a while, but I've got one wing just about done now. By far the biggest problem I've had is "garage rash" as these skins are taking a beating and getting all scratched no matter how careful I am. I want to polish my skins, but I don't know how it will look with some of the scratches I can already see.


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Tim Juhl



Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Oops! A6 Rivet question Reply with quote

I used a spring loaded center punch to attempt to drive out the pin with no success. Also tried a punch and a few gentle taps from a hammer... no luck. Even worse, the top of the pin was broken on an angle resulting in the drill trying to walk off center. I ended up using a #40 drill to start it while holding the drill centered (as best as I could get it) with a drilling cup. This happened only in the A5 rivets and to about 6 in the top skin.

Thanks for the advice!

Tim


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