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D subminiature connectors

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bakerocb

Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA

Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 5:35 am Post subject: D subminiature connectors

5/29/2010



Hello Fellow Builders, Here is what we are writing about:



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature



Bob Nuckolls writes: "It's a fact that the majority of d-sub connectors come

with short, slotted-head 4-40 jack screws that are EXCEEDINGLY difficult to

work with in confined spaces traversed by wire bundles." ..and ... "the

inconvenience of stock, slot-head jack-screws."



{RESPONSE}  He offers a screw handling solution here:



http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5



I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with hex

socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head allows one to

manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior to a straight slot or

phillips drive head screw.



See here for a source of such screws:



http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSC.cfm



Here is just one source of tools for handling these screws:



http://www.bondhus.com/



Conventional Allen wrenches work fine for most handling of these screws, but

these Prohold tools will give even more control if needed:



http://www.bondhus.com/features/prohold/body-0.htm



'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to 

gather and understand knowledge."



PS: An aerospace vehicle with hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive

fasteners is much easier to work on than a vehicle with straight slot or

Phillips drive fasteners. See here for some handy tool kits to work with the

hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners:



http://www.chapmanmfg.com/



========================================================



Time: 10:28:24 AM PST US

From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>

Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Gauge wiring best practice

I would like to make the panel easily disconnectable, and I'm going to

be using something like Tyco AMP MATE-N-LOK connectors for connecting

other things to the panel.  (These are multi-way locking connectors,

with crimped pins, supporting various wire gauges -- 10-30AWG at

least).



   Keep in mind that every connector interface adds three new

   joints to every wire. Running lots of electro-goodies through a

   single connector adds a single point of failure for all

   those electro-goodies........



BIG SKIP

    Probably no functional differences. However, it's

    been my observation over the years that spending a lot

    of time adding complexity for some perceived future

    convenience has a poor return on investment. Suggest

    you 'enhance' the stock jack-screws and wire each

    instrument as a stand-alone system while minimizing

    features shared with other systems.



   Bob . . .

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mantafs(at)earthlink.net
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Posted: Sun May 30, 2010 4:53 pm Post subject: D subminiature connectors

 	  Quote: 	
		  BIG SKIP

    Probably no functional differences. However, it's

    been my observation over the years that spending a lot

    of time adding complexity for some perceived future

    convenience has a poor return on investment. Suggest

    you 'enhance' the stock jack-screws and wire each

    instrument as a stand-alone system while minimizing

    features shared with other systems.



   Bob . . .


	


I can not agree more!  But I do like to make sure I have an extra loop of wires at the end so that I can pull things out with the wires still attached.  Loop the wires and then use a wire tie to make them neat and to hold them in place without adding stress to the connector.    I have never had problems with wires being too long but have had problems with wires being too short.



Mark

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