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cpayne(at)joimail.com
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 Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:02 pm Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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The Chinese air start valve is the QDF-1. I'm told that the Yak uses the same valve but not having a Yak available, I can't say from personal experience. Does anyone have an interest in getting their spare valve rebuilt? Not just the seals but a stainless steel "bottom" inlet where all the trouble starts. I'm thinking of setting up do do several.
Let me know off-list if you are interested, no certain cost at this time but the end result should result in a longer lasting unit than the original.
Craig Payne
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kelmonroe(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 5:04 pm Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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Hi Craig, Do you know the cost and the time frame?
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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| Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 11:56 am Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
Mark
P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
to me.
--
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dougsappllc(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:44 pm Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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Mark is correct, abut 70% of the time the problem is in the elect solenoid portion of the valve and not in the pneumatic section . However replacing parts such as springs, etc. with stainless steel can't be a bad thing. Craig: I do have some "service kits" which contain most of the small rubber parts, if these are of use to you let me know.
Keeping the pneumatic system clean and dry in the first place is the key to long life of all the components. Change the desiccant and filters often and you will not have far fewer problems. Depending on the humidity you fly in you may have to change the filters as often as every 10 to 12 hours. This fact seems to be unexceptional to some folks, but if you want less pneumatic problems you really do need to accept the fact that it's just the nature of the beast. The filter recharge kits are only $17.50 each, have all stainless steel screens, fresh felt filters and fresh dry desiccant. These recharge kits are 100% reusable, just rinse/clean the filters and screens and bake the desiccant at 170F for 24 hours in a electric oven. Don't use gas as it is far to moist of heat to get the job done.
The stainless steel filter is a great mod, we have sold over 150 so far but it will do you little good unless you first establish YOUR desiccant change interval, then set up to change out the filters and desiccant at that interval from now on. A good example is that if you live in Deer Valley you can get away changing the filter packs far less often than in you live in GA or FL where the humidity is
high, you just need to find what works in your area.
Because of the hassle of removing the filter to inspect the color (wetness) of the desiccant I have come up with a method of inspection for color without removing the filter body or opening the system. I have found a high pressure "viewing port" which can be installed in the side of the filter body. It is necessary to drill and tap the filter body to complete the installation. Once installed you have a dime sized viewing area into the desiccant, allowing you to easily see the color.
Doug
On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)> wrote:
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
Mark
P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
to me.
--
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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tigeryak18t
Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE
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| Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2010 2:40 pm Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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Hi Doug,
would that fit for an 18T????
Didier
2010/6/7 doug sapp <dougsappllc(at)gmail.com (dougsappllc(at)gmail.com)>
[quote]Mark is correct, abut 70% of the time the problem is in the elect solenoid portion of the valve and not in the pneumatic section . However replacing parts such as springs, etc. with stainless steel can't be a bad thing. Craig: I do have some "service kits" which contain most of the small rubber parts, if these are of use to you let me know.
Keeping the pneumatic system clean and dry in the first place is the key to long life of all the components. Change the desiccant and filters often and you will not have far fewer problems. Depending on the humidity you fly in you may have to change the filters as often as every 10 to 12 hours. This fact seems to be unexceptional to some folks, but if you want less pneumatic problems you really do need to accept the fact that it's just the nature of the beast. The filter recharge kits are only $17.50 each, have all stainless steel screens, fresh felt filters and fresh dry desiccant. These recharge kits are 100% reusable, just rinse/clean the filters and screens and bake the desiccant at 170F for 24 hours in a electric oven. Don't use gas as it is far to moist of heat to get the job done.
The stainless steel filter is a great mod, we have sold over 150 so far but it will do you little good unless you first establish YOUR desiccant change interval, then set up to change out the filters and desiccant at that interval from now on. A good example is that if you live in Deer Valley you can get away changing the filter packs far less often than in you live in GA or FL where the humidity is
high, you just need to find what works in your area.
Because of the hassle of removing the filter to inspect the color (wetness) of the desiccant I have come up with a method of inspection for color without removing the filter body or opening the system. I have found a high pressure "viewing port" which can be installed in the side of the filter body. It is necessary to drill and tap the filter body to complete the installation. Once installed you have a dime sized viewing area into the desiccant, allowing you to easily see the color.
Doug
On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 12:51 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)> wrote:
[quote]
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
It's the same exact valve. And that fact seems to be a well kept
secret. See Doug, he has them. A smart person would order two.
Mark
P.s. Two on mine have failed in 10 years. In both cases it was the
solenoid that failed. Get's weak.. Cleaning the valve and making it
easier for the pin to operate helps. Eventually though it just gets too
weak to work at all. Not saying this is what happens to everyone, just
to me.
--
| | - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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_________________
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing |
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:56 am Post subject: Air start valve rebuild |
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Didier,
If you will send me a photo of the 18T's pop off valve assembly location along with a schematic of the 18T's pneumatic system (if you have one) I'll be happy to look it over and send you what I have for installing Doug's SUPER SS Air Filter. In my opinion, once you install Doug's filter you can be assured the pneumatic system will be much healthier than it ever was. The filter will eliminate to the maximum extent possible, moisture being pushed back into the air bottles. As Doug says though, changing the desiccant and filters often is the key to keeping the system dry. And as everyone knows, moisture in the bottle is what damages the pneumatic system components.
Dennis
[quote] ---
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