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gene.lee(at)gte.net
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 Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 12:37 pm Post subject: Flap Fuse |
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Follow-up to let everyone know the final resolution in case someone else sees the issue in the future…
Grease had worked its way up into the motor and was ‘binding it up’. Even with the motor completely detached from everything else, it was drawing 2.5 amps just to start spinning. In fact, it drew so much current that small wisps of smoke came out of it when I applied power. Next time I won’t ignore the problem when 7.5 amp fuses are periodically blowing!
I found that Usher Precision (http://www.usherprecision.com/aircraft-parts.html) sells just the bare Pittman motor for $110. After swapping the motor out I took it for some touch-n-goes and the problem looks like it’s gone.
Gene
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 6:20 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Flap Fuse
How about disconnecting the pushrods and checking for resistance to movement by moving each flap manually? Excessive current draw suggests that the motor is struggling. You could divide the movement in two - the motor to the push rods and the push rods to the flaps. If you feel no resistance to movement on the flap side then maybe there's some interference or tightness on the motor side. Could anything be misaligned, interfering or overtightened in motor to pushrod chain?
Ian Brown
"I have an RV-7a with 700 hours on her and a month ago the flap fuse ( 7.5amps )
blew on two consecutive landings. The fuse has
never blown before in those 700 hours. I know I was well below the white arc,
10 to 15 knots below, on both of the landings.
After I changed the fuse on those two, it went almost a month without ever happening
again, then the fuse below twice more over the
course of a few landings.
It always blows on the downward movement, but the point at which it's blown varies
anywhere between just barely having moved and
being as much as 20 degrees when it happens."
[quote][b]
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