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bgreen(at)bimi.org Guest
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:48 am Post subject: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 |
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To: Frank
Boyd has the right idea... Also the small split bolt clamps used by electricians can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and are very useful in holding the cables, sleeves, etc in place while swaging process takes place...as Richard says. I always tightly wrap masking tape on the cable where I am going to cut it. This helps keep a neat (non-frayed) end on the cable.
There should be plenty of information provided from guys on the list. The economical swaging tools sold at Kolb(I mention Kolb because I am in favor of keeping them in business by giving them all the business we can) work great. There should be instructions included with the tool and or in the Aircraft Spruce hard copy catalog. Sounds like you are on the right track. Dragging a small cotton towel over the cables is a good way to check for frays. Usually the frays snag on the towel. Be careful about snagging a finger. You plane is probably different but if I were changing cables on my MK IIIX I would connect a strong string or wire to the end of the cable and use that to install the new one (attach the new cable to the end of the string or wire and pull it back through... it will follow the routing of the old cable).
Hopefully John Hauck will respond as he has the most experience with Kolbs.
You are to be commended for being sensitive to "sights and sounds" as you have inspected your plane.
Bob
Building MKIIIX
A&P
Time: 11:39:05 AM PST US
From: Frank Fanelli <frankf(at)flying-models.com>
Subject: Help with elevator cable
Hi:
Bought a used, high time (740 hours) Firestar back in January, and have
been attending to the usual maintenance issues, all non-airworthy items.
Flew the plane three times so far and it is a real delight compared to
the Quicksilvers I flew for about 12 years.
During the preflight check before the fourth flight Friday (6/11), I
hear a scraping noise under the seat during the preflight check of the
controls. Thought at first it was something under the seat rubbing
against the cable, but nothing there. The visible part of the cable
looked and felt okay. Discovered that one of the elevator cables was
slightly frayed just aft of the pulley. Couldn't see it, but could feel
it. So, no more flying until the cables are replaced.
Called Kolb and got the part numbers for all the cable components but I
don't have a set plans, just the building instructions. Nothing much in
there about the procedure for re-installing the cables, so I'm asking
for some guidance. I do know they need to be taut, and each cable must
stay that way when the stick is moved forward and back. Also know that
one cable can't go slack when the other is taut.
Also need to know if the economy swaging tools (the screw type) can be
used easily when doing this. Welcome your insights.
Frank Fanelli
New Jersey
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 11:53:09 AM PST US
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: RE: Help with elevator cable
Frank
Can't help with plans.... but seems you have one to copy. If you tie a
small rope to one end and pull it through... make a new cable the same
length as the old. Then pull back in place with the rope to reinstall.
The only problem with this is if there had been any major stretch to the
cable. In which case you would make it a bit shorter, you could check for
this by seeing how much adjustment is in the turnbuckle. Middle of the
adjustment make the same length,,, adjustment all the way in,,, make it a
bit shorter, so you will have room to adjust again.
The economy swaging tool seem to work ok for me.
Boyd Young
MKIII 640 hours
Utah
Time: 06:15:15 PM PST US
Subject: Re: Help with elevator cable
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Yep, one like this is all you need. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/no2swageit.php
Doesn't hurt to practice a bit with some extra cable and waste a few sleeves if
you've not done any before. IMO, a box end wrench is easier than a socket and
ratchet. Run one bolt down a bit, then the other, then back, etc. Clamping the
tool in a vise while you are doing things also helps. If you are having trouble
keeping the wires the tension and position you want, small split bolt grounding
clamps are useful to keep everything in position and won't hurt your cables.
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=7768
I like to use two sleeves per thimble and also cut the ends off the thimbles first,
makes them fit better and they will not get loose.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301248#301248
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frankf(at)flying-models.c Guest
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Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:22 pm Post subject: Kolb-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 06/14/10 |
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On 6/15/2010 9:40 AM, Bob Green wrote:
Quote: |
To: Frank
Boyd has the right idea... Also the small split bolt clamps used by electricians can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and are very useful in holding the cables, sleeves, etc in place while swaging process takes place...as Richard says. I always tightly wrap masking tape on the cable where I am going to cut it. This helps keep a neat (non-frayed) end on the cable.
There should be plenty of information provided from guys on the list. The economical swaging tools sold at Kolb(I mention Kolb because I am in favor of keeping them in business by giving them all the business we can) work great. There should be instructions included with the tool and or in the Aircraft Spruce hard copy catalog. Sounds like you are on the right track. Dragging a small cotton towel over the cables is a good way to check for frays. Usually the frays snag on the towel. Be careful about snagging a finger. You plane is probably different but if I were changing cables on my MK IIIX I would connect a strong string or wire to the end of the cable and use that to install the new one (attach the new cable to the end of the string or wire and pull it back through... it will follow the routing of the old cable).
Hopefully John Hauck will respond as he has the most experience with Kolbs.
You are to be commended for being sensitive to "sights and sounds" as you have inspected your plane.
Bob
Building MKIIIX
A&P
Time: 11:39:05 AM PST US
From: Frank Fanelli<frankf(at)flying-models.com>
Subject: Help with elevator cable
Hi:
Bought a used, high time (740 hours) Firestar back in January, and have
been attending to the usual maintenance issues, all non-airworthy items.
Flew the plane three times so far and it is a real delight compared to
the Quicksilvers I flew for about 12 years.
During the preflight check before the fourth flight Friday (6/11), I
hear a scraping noise under the seat during the preflight check of the
controls. Thought at first it was something under the seat rubbing
against the cable, but nothing there. The visible part of the cable
looked and felt okay. Discovered that one of the elevator cables was
slightly frayed just aft of the pulley. Couldn't see it, but could feel
it. So, no more flying until the cables are replaced.
Called Kolb and got the part numbers for all the cable components but I
don't have a set plans, just the building instructions. Nothing much in
there about the procedure for re-installing the cables, so I'm asking
for some guidance. I do know they need to be taut, and each cable must
stay that way when the stick is moved forward and back. Also know that
one cable can't go slack when the other is taut.
Also need to know if the economy swaging tools (the screw type) can be
used easily when doing this. Welcome your insights.
Frank Fanelli
New Jersey
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 11:53:09 AM PST US
From: "b young"<by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: RE: Help with elevator cable
Frank
Can't help with plans.... but seems you have one to copy. If you tie a
small rope to one end and pull it through... make a new cable the same
length as the old. Then pull back in place with the rope to reinstall.
The only problem with this is if there had been any major stretch to the
cable. In which case you would make it a bit shorter, you could check for
this by seeing how much adjustment is in the turnbuckle. Middle of the
adjustment make the same length,,, adjustment all the way in,,, make it a
bit shorter, so you will have room to adjust again.
The economy swaging tool seem to work ok for me.
Boyd Young
MKIII 640 hours
Utah
Time: 06:15:15 PM PST US
Subject: Re: Help with elevator cable
From: "Richard Pike"<richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Yep, one like this is all you need. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/no2swageit.php
Doesn't hurt to practice a bit with some extra cable and waste a few sleeves if
you've not done any before. IMO, a box end wrench is easier than a socket and
ratchet. Run one bolt down a bit, then the other, then back, etc. Clamping the
tool in a vise while you are doing things also helps. If you are having trouble
keeping the wires the tension and position you want, small split bolt grounding
clamps are useful to keep everything in position and won't hurt your cables.
http://www.summitsource.com/product_info.php?ref=1&products_id=7768
I like to use two sleeves per thimble and also cut the ends off the thimbles first,
makes them fit better and they will not get loose.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=301248#301248
Hello Bob:
|
The tip about the masking tape is good. had heard that once before but
forgot about it. Instead of using the old cable to drag the new one
through I was thinking of attaching a rope to the old one and using it
to pull the rope through. That way I can use the old cable as a template
for the new one. That's the plan but as I always seem to find, the best
laid plans, etc.etc.
Frank Fanelli
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