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icubob(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:49 am Post subject: Fwd: B&C dgm |
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bob, here is the schematic.
bob noffs
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Greg Jones <greg(at)bandc.biz (greg(at)bandc.biz)>
Date: Fri, Jun 25, 2010 at 3:05 PM
Subject: B&C dgm
To: icubob(at)gmail.com (icubob(at)gmail.com)
http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/504-500_Rev_F.pdf
[b]Greg Jones[/b][b][/b]
[b] [/b]
[b]Greg Jones[/b][b][/b]
[b]Sales/Customer Service[/b]
[b] [/b]
[b]B&C Specialty Products, Inc.[/b]
[b]123 East 4th Street[/b]
[b]POB B[/b]
[b]Newton[/b][b], Kansas 67114 USA[/b][b][/b]
[b]Phone (316) 283-8000[/b]
[b]Fax (316) 283-7400[/b]
[b]Email greg(at)bandc.biz (greg(at)bandc.biz)[/b][b][/b]
[b]Website www.bandc.biz[/b]
[b] [/b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 7:09 pm Post subject: Fwd: B&C dgm |
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At 10:48 AM 6/26/2010, you wrote:
Okay, the 20A breaker is a non-traditional
configuration of battery hot-wire protection.
I'm not sure why this was incorporated
there. If you have installed it, it should
be right at the battery . . . but it would
be better that NO breaker be installed there
and an S704-1 Battery Relay installed as a
sort of mini-battery-contactor.
In fact, if you would rather NOT installing
a battery master relay at the battery, put
a 20A inline fuse there instead. It will serve
the same purpose as a breaker located there . . .
but be 10 times faster in clearing a fault.
Use one of these from the car parts store
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Fuses/Fuse_Holders/ifh-2.jpg
Substituting a 1A breaker for the 2A breaker is
fine . . . but both are considerably more expensive
than a 5A breaker which would be fine too. This
breaker would be labeled ALT CTRL. The 10A/15A
breaker in the alternator output line would be
simply labeled ALT.
Bob . . .
[quote][b]
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