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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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 Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:54 am Post subject: AC cooling chest |
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Here are some pictures of this latest project in case others want to try it. The basic idea is from http://www.instructables.com/id/Portable-12V-Air-Conditioner---Cheap-and-easy!/ (thanks again Pascal)
I started with a new Igloo cooler (48 qt. I think) from Walmart ($20) because it fits the 12" baggage door. A heater core from the junk yard (out of an Accord, I think), two new fans NIDEC VA450DC - rated at 3.3 amps, 220 CFM - server fans I think, they REALLY blow ( I have some extras I'll sell for $10 ea. if anyone is interested), a bilge pump, Atwood 500 (Walmart $17), dryer 4"X8' vent hoses, two quick connect gizmos for dryer hoses from Home Depot modified and attached to the top of the fans so that the hoses can be quickly disconnected for easy in and out of the cooler, and various polyurethane caulk, 5/8 ID vinyl tubing - Home Depot, switch from Radio Shack, wire, wire nuts, etc. Done!
It is assembled, fits in the baggage door, fans blow, pump pumps, but I'll wait until the caulk sets further to anchor the pump before I try it out with ice and water.
I went ahead and drilled 1/2" holes all around the top of the cooler so that the lid can stay closed. I like this design cuz it is not just blowing air over ice -- instead, it is actually pulling cabin air over the heat exchanger which pulls humidity out of the cabin. The on/off button thumb switch is mounted in grip I turned out of some scrap walnut I had around, and the cord is long enough to sit on the tunnel between the front seats so you can turn it on after the engine is started, then turn it off when you reach altitude and save your ice for when you're back in the heat.
Should be minimal busy work throwing a bag of ice in it. The return hose from the heat exchanger is about 5' long coiled in the chest so that you can just hang it out the door and pump the water out when you're done.
I think the amp ratings are high, cuz the male accessory plug (also from Radio Shack) has a built in 7.5 amp fuse that doesn't blow with the two 3.3a fans and the 2.5a pump. Probably would run the battery down if left running too long without the engine running. It plugs into the female socket I installed to charge the battery in the same position that Tim put his in the rear baggage bulkhead.
Later, - Lew
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coop85(at)verizon.net
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| Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:50 pm Post subject: AC cooling chest |
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Fantastic write-up, thanks Lew!
Marcus
40286
Do not archive.
--
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 3:27 pm Post subject: Re: AC cooling chest |
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Good work Lew. I will probably do something similiar after our -10 is complete. It won't do much for humidity because your condensate will drip off of cold 32-40F coil right back into ice bath then reevaporate into the air but cold moist air will still feel better than hot moist air. You could seal ice/water bath chamber from cabin air then run condensate into a pan then overboard...now that would remove humidity. If you needed a little cooler evaporator temperature just add some salt or your favorite alcohol to the ice. Have fun.
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:07 am Post subject: Re: AC cooling chest |
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Hey Guys,
Here are some numbers. It was 110 degrees in my extended cab pick up this AM. I put 2 gal of water and 2 gal of ice (from the fridge ice maker) in the cooler. After 10 minutes of running the cooler, the ice was totally melted, cabin temp was 80, exit air from the cooler was 53, water temp was 45. I think with maybe one gal of water and much more bag ice, it would last much longer. Very comfortable, and not bad for a little experiment.
It concerns me that when I pulled the plug out of the truck socket, it was more than warm to the touch. I don’t have a way to measure the amps, but the voltage on the instrument cluster didn’t vary when turning the cooler on and off (had the motor running). Maybe small truck wiring to the socket? The socket itself? The male plug has a 7.5 amp fuse built into it, and it was fine. I’ll be sure to check that heat issue when I plug it into the plane.
The air circulating over the ice/water didn’t seem to be an issue – sure felt cool and dry and the heater core was dripping condensate. But maybe later I’ll try “floating” a thin piece of styrofoam on top to help separate the water/air
I’ll post more numbers from the plane later in the week.
Later, - Lew
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 9:21 am Post subject: Re: AC cooling chest |
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Sounds good Lew. That should give us enough time to get to cooler air temperatures then dump the 30 lbs of water overboard. Add a pull string to flush it out the bottom. You would definitely need something like that today...97F right now.
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 9:28 am Post subject: Re: AC cooling chest |
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Hey Guys,
OK, I flew with Wes for the first time to check out the ice A/C. (Flying was OK, but building is still my thing!)
I didn’t have a thermometer for the actual inside temp, but on the taxiway it was HOT – instant sweat hot. As soon as the engine was cranked, I turned on the air with the two 4 inch ducts just hand held between the pilot/copilot seats (I’ll probably come up with a tunnel console later) and there is immediate relief. Cool, dry air and complete comfort by take off.
I immediately turned off the air during climb out to save ice, and to not add any unnecessary load during critical times. When at cruise I noticed that the amp draw on the instrument panel was at 1. Turning the cooler on and off, it pulls a little over 7 amps. I turned it on again at touch down to shut off. The male plug into the socket was not hot after using it. Two store bought bags of ice lasted for two take offs and landings, with plenty of cold water left in the cooler, but no ice. There is enough room for 4 or five bags of ice in the cooler if you wanted to run it longer or do more take offs and landings. Your mileage may vary, keep weight in mind.
The first pilot to see this at the hangar, asked me to make one for him, which I did. Total cost with shipping would be $250. New 48 qt. cooler, new fans, hoses, ducts, switches, etc. used heater core.
Later, - Lew
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 6:53 am Post subject: Re: AC cooling chest |
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Hey Patrick,
Here are a couple of pictures of the last one I made for the guy that flies a Cessna. He has his accessory outlet on the dash, so I made the in-line switch about two feet from the receptacle, with a total length of about 11 feet so that he can put the cooler in the back. The 4" ducts extend to 8 ft. and they are quick detach.
Thanks for the interest, - Lew
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NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 8:12 pm Post subject: AC cooling chest |
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Mate, you are a legend and you must become an honorary 'Aussie' for designing that. How cool.
What are the holes around the top edge for?
Does air get sucked in at the top and blown out from the vents at the top?
Where did you get the radiator and pump from.
How ingenious.
Many thanks
Pat
From: Lew Gallagher <lewgall(at)charter.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, 18 July, 2010 12:23:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AC cooling chest
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net (lewgall(at)charter.net)>
Hey Patrick,
Here are a couple of pictures of the last one I made for the guy that flies a Cessna. He has his accessory outlet on the dash, so I made the in-line switch about two feet from the receptacle, with a total length of about 11 feet so that he can put the cooler in the back. The 4" ducts extend to 8 ft. and they are quick detach.
Thanks for the interest, - Lew
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NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
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