 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
jchang10
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 227
|
 Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:31 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
 |
|
I finally decided to use the same mcmaster carr seal. in the process of trimming the door frame to make room for the seal, i was curious about what others may have done to keep the door seal in place.
you can see in the picture linked below, that it would be great to make that barb useful. the barb is located on the interior, to minimize the amount of distortion the seal makes on the door.
however, now would be a good time to find a solution to use that barb. the possible options i can think of are:
1. create a channel or lip to catch the barb. the tricky part is that the edge tapers quite a bit on the end.
2. build up a channel or lip. thus, how to build it up nicely?
3. do nothing at all and glue it in.
thus, i'm left pondering what approach the many others who have gone down this path have taken?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_E3nI7J8M6Iw/TEYT7M07YnI/AAAAAAAAB80/85rOXQ2Amsk/IMG_0010.JPG
Jae
40533
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
jchang10
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 227
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 2:23 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
Jay;
I know this sounds simple, but did you squeeze the seal? I was able to
make it tighter just by compressing the metal in the seal.
Dr Fred.
515FW
Oshkosh bound Saturday.
jchang10 wrote:
| Quote: |
I finally decided to use the same mcmaster carr seal. in the process of trimming the door frame to make room for the seal, i was curious about what others may have done to keep the door seal in place.
you can see in the picture linked below, that it would be great to make that barb useful. the barb is located on the interior, to minimize the amount of distortion the seal makes on the door.
however, now would be a good time to find a solution to use that barb. the possible options i can think of are:
1. create a channel or lip to catch the barb. the tricky part is that the edge tapers quite a bit on the end.
2. build up a channel or lip. thus, how to build it up nicely?
3. do nothing at all and glue it in.
thus, i'm left pondering what approach the many others who have gone down this path have taken?
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_E3nI7J8M6Iw/TEYT7M07YnI/AAAAAAAAB80/85rOXQ2Amsk/s640/IMG_0010.JPG
Jae
40533
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=305641#305641
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
rleffler
Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 3:06 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
This what I did, which I've copied from several other builders that did the
same before me.
When you trim the rain gutter, trim in square so the trim installs in the
appropriate orientation. You will have to build up portions of the rain
gutter to 1/4". The best method is to use thin strips of glass since there
are places that you'll need to build up over 1/8". So folks have just used
micro or flox, but I think using fiberglass strips will make it stronger.
There are some places where you may also need to sand a flat area on the
back side to get a good grip.
Ivan Kristensen and Geoff Combs have good photos on their sites. Ivan also
has a video showing the dimensions on his rain gutter after trimming. I've
tried pulling off the seal on Geoff's RV-10. It's almost impossible to get
off and it's not glued. He just built up the edge so the fit is very tight.
Les Kearney wrote a doc on how he did his door seals. I can forward a copy
if anyone wants it. He also filled in the rear of the seal so it's smooth
on the interior. Basically making a channel for the seal to sit in.
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 20, 2010 6:01 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
Hi
Here is the document Fred mentioned. I sent a few emails describing what I
did to Pat Pulis in Australia who converted them into a small Word Doc.
My doors are largely done and close quite nicely - not perfect but pretty
good. The techniques are all borrowed from those who have gone before so I
take no credit whatsoever.
The one thing that made a HUGE difference was not installing screws in the
door frame until after the doors were fitted. Being able to move the door
frame in by an 1/8th of an inch on one side made a very tight door easy to
close.
I also found the door latches close much easier if lubricated with white
grease. There is a lot of internal friction in the stock Van's setup - or so
I found.
When fitting and adjusting the doors and gap, be sure to have all the door
hardware installed - especially the door openers. I found these do affect
the geometry and how easily the doors open / close.
Cheers
Les
#40643
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
| Description: |
|
Download |
| Filename: |
Les_Kearney's_McMaster_Carr_Door_Seals.doc |
| Filesize: |
2.13 MB |
| Downloaded: |
438 Time(s) |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jchang10
Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 227
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:26 am Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
Hi Les, thank you again for that great writeup. I just started down that
road, so i will be referencing your writeup closely.
Jae
40533 still
On 7/20/2010 6:53 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: |
Hi
Here is the document Fred mentioned. I sent a few emails describing what I
did to Pat Pulis in Australia who converted them into a small Word Doc.
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
roxianmike(at)msn.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:36 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
Les, I have to reach out and thank you for this contribution as well as Bob for surfacing it again. I have not been working on my 10 for about a year because I was discouraged at the outcome of the door fit and basically could not move forward. Seeing what you did has solved my problem of how to build up the frame to establish an appropriate gap for the door.......I couldn't figure out how to do that previously, thank you!!
[quote] From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:26:31 -0600
Hi
Here is the document Fred mentioned. I sent a few emails describing what I
did to Pat Pulis in Australia who converted them into a small Word Doc.
My doors are largely done and close quite nicely - not perfect but pretty
good. The techniques are all borrowed from those who have gone before so I
take no credit whatsoever.
The one thing that made a HUGE difference was not installing screws in the
door frame until after the doors were fitted. Being able to move the door
frame in by an 1/8th of an inch on one side made a very tight door easy to
close.
I also found the door latches close much easier if lubricated with white
grease. There is a lot of internal friction in the stock Van's setup - or so
I found.
When fitting and adjusting the doors and gap, be sure to have all the door
hardware installed - especially the door openers. I found these do affect
the geometry and how easily the doors open / close.
Cheers
Les
#40643
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
|
| Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:27 pm Post subject: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place |
|
|
Mike
The doors were truly frustrating to start. Even being as careful as possible and following the instructions carefully I still had issues to figure out.
To start, the index holes that aligned the door halves were missing so I had to guess where they should have been. After bonding the doors and prior to cutting the excess door material, I placed a few small stacks of popsicle sticks under the door flange so that the door would sit reasonably high off the door sill. I didn't want the door to sit on the sill as this would have cause problems.
After mounting door hinges and opener, I found the open bracket on the door was too far down - I will end up fabbing new brackets. I also had to glass in a couple of depressions in the door to allow the cabin hinge to clear the door. If I had to do it again, I wouldn't mount the hinge hardware on the cabin to until I had the doors placed on the side of the cabin top. Then I would locate them to avoid the interference.
When I first closed the doors I was horrified by how much effort was required to close them and engage the latches. I was convinced I was going to have to get one new door and start again one one side. Greasing the latches made a big difference on how easy the door mechanism worked.
I then spent a lot of time staring at the doors trying to figure out how I could change the geometry.
What I found was that one door was binding at the very top and in a hard to see spot. Once that was fixed the door seem to sit better. I then sanded the opening until I could run a feeler gauge completely around the door and confirm nothing was touching.
Then I moved the door sill in by about an 1/8" and it took a lot of pressure off the door seals and made closing easier. I also sanded down the door flange on the door side to take pressure of the seals. Where necessary I built up the interior side to get a reasonable flange thickness to hold the seals.
I also put a shim between the front hinge and the door so that the level of the door more closely matched the cabin top.
I didn't worry about the gap until after the doors were opening and closing easily.
To close them now, the pressure of a single finger on the outside is sufficient to bring them in far enough to engage the latches.
In the midst of all this, I installed the IFLYRV10 billet handles which I like a great deal. What nearly had me screaming was when one of them seized while I was working the mechanism. It took some doing to get the handle off. I used ultra fine sandpaper to clean up the wear surfaces on the parts that seized and then lubricated with white grease. Problem solved - but for an hour or so I was intensely frustrated.
I still have to retrofit Seans door latch and I hope that it will allow me to pull the door in sufficiently for the doors to latch with no real effort.
At times the doorrs, as well as most other aspects of the build, have been very frustrating. But this is all part of learning new skills. Unfortunately the kit does not have "replacement parts" for the things that are easy to bugger up. Application of a few dollars and a courier from Oregon and the problem is solved.
Cheers
Les
#40643
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roxanne and Mike Lefever
Sent: July-21-10 7:36 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place
Les, I have to reach out and thank you for this contribution as well as Bob for surfacing it again. I have not been working on my 10 for about a year because I was discouraged at the outcome of the door fit and basically could not move forward. Seeing what you did has solved my problem of how to build up the frame to establish an appropriate gap for the door.......I couldn't figure out how to do that previously, thank you!!
[quote] From: kearney(at)shaw.ca
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Retaining Mcmaster carr door seal in place
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:26:31 -0600
Hi
Here is the document Fred mentioned. I sent a few emails describing what I
did to Pat Pulis in Australia who converted them into a small Word Doc.
My doors are largely done and close quite nicely - not perfect but pretty
good. The techniques are all borrowed from those who have gone before so I
take no credit whatsoever.
The one thing that made a HUGE difference was not installing screws in the
door frame until after the doors were fitted. Being able to move the door
frame in by an 1/8th of an inch on one side made a very tight door easy to
close.
I also found the door latches close much easier if lubricated with white
grease. There is a lot of internal friction in the stock Van's setup - or so
I found.
When fitting and adjusting the doors and gap, be sure to have all the door
hardware installed - especially the door openers. I found these do affect
the geometry and how easily the doors open / close.
Cheers
Les
#40643
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
