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Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory!

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Arksey(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 6:37 pm Post subject: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory!

RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee"  <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>



Hi all,     I hope this  helps.



I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when  it needs to be done and how.

It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the  Annual and it only takes a few minutes

  

 Roger,

   thanks for posting this information....was just talking with a pilot  the other day about the gearbox check....we plan on doing it to the 912 on the  kolb mk lll in the near future....doing a lot of flying up here in michigan,  seems everyone is getting interested....just wanted to thank you for all you do  to help people with information regard the Rotax engines on this  list....everyone fly safe...jim swan

  

 Do not  archive

FIRESTAR ll 503 Michigan jswan

GPS FOR MY RUNWAY N 42 deg 28.581  W084deg 44.825

ph. 517-663-8488

  [quote][b]

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:44 pm Post subject: Re: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory

Hi Jim,



Thanks.

If you need any thing let me know.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

hgmckay

Joined: 23 May 2006
Posts: 397

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:54 am Post subject: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory!

Roger, You might clarify this a bit by mentioning that this is done only on 

those gear boxes that have a "slipper clutch". Many 80 hp 912 UL engine do 

not have slipper clutches.



Hugh McKay



--------------------------------------------------

From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>

Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 3:38 PM

To: <rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's 

mandatory!



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Hi all,     I hope this helps.



 I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when it needs 

 to be done and how.

 It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the Annual and it only takes a 

 few minutes, but it is very important. It has a place on the Rotax 

 inspection check list to record your test info and should be logged in 

 your logbook for the inspection. (The owners that come to me, don't bother 

 to look in the book, it's there.B))



 You will need a set of metric allen wrenches and a fish scale. Something 

 that reads between 0-50 lbs. Don't use something that read really high as 

 it won't be accurate down at the bottom numbers where we want to measure. 

 I use a digital fish scale. You will need a piece of string too.



 As far as the how to perform this check, well let's take a look.

 While you have the prop spinner off for the inspection is a good time to 

 do this. First remove the M8x20 plug screw for the locking pin . It is 

 located about 3.5" above the magnetic oil plug. It is gold colored and has 

 an upward angle on the head. It is a number 5 or 6 allen screw. Remove it. 

 Get the black 1 3/4" crankshaft locking pin out of the Rotax orange tool 

 kit. We will need to rotate the prop which can be done with one plug out 

 of each cylinder or they can be left in. You will need a flash light to 

 find the crankshaft locking pin grove. You are going to shine the light 

 down the hole where you just took out the screw where the locking pin will 

 be inserted. Slowly rotate the prop counterclockwise while looking in the 

 hole. You may only see blackness, keep rotating until you see a shiny 

 smooth oily surface. Continue to rotate slowly and you will see what looks 

 like a notch or a "V". If you continue it will be shiny smooth again. Stop 

 and go back to that "V" or notch. Mo!

 ve the prop back and forth slightly to get it centered. Now take the 

 locking pin and screw this in. It should stop with 3/4" still sticking 

 out. Hold the prop and slightly wiggle it while you snug up the locking 

 pin into the center of the notch. Now your crankshaft should be locked. 

 Absolutely do not screw the locking pin in further if it just keeps going. 

 That means you missed. Take it out and look for the smooth oily surface 

 and notch again. This is very easy so don't worry.

 Now with the crankshaft locked the prop can still move approximately 30 

 degrees. Push the prop back all the way counterclockwise until it stops. 

 Take a tape measure and measure out from the center of the prop hub 

 outward along the blade between 24-30 inches. It doesn't matter what 

 number you pick. If you pick 26", 28" or 30" it doesn't matter. Put a 

 little pencil or a mark at your measurement.

 You need your string now around the prop at your mark. Now take your scale 

 and hook it on the string. In a nice straight and even pressure pull, pull 

 the scale and prop. Watch how much the scale reads. I usually do this 2-3 

 times to make sure my reading is accurate. So let's say your reading was 

 17 lbs. To find the torque measurement we take that number 17 lbs. and 

 multiply it times the number of inches you measured out from the prop 

 center. Let's say you used 28" and had a 17 lb pull. 28 X 17 = 476 in/lbs

 That is a good number and is the number to record on the Rotax inspection 

 sheet. We look for a bottom number of 300 and the high end of 530 in/lbs. 

 In this case the higher the better. If you are at 490 in/lb verses 340 

 in/lb you are much better off. No it isn't worth the effort to pull the 

 gearbox to go from 450 to 510 and getting the friction right on is not an 

 exact science. It is accomplished by pulling the gearbox and using shims 

 to add more pre-load to the bellville washers that act as our spring 

 tension.

 Your done, take out the locking pin and don't loose it. replace the plug 

 screw at

 133 in/lbs torque.



 If you are a member of the R.O.A.N. website you can look at this video 

 that demonstrates this very well.



 Hi all,



 I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when it needs 

 to be done and how.

 It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the Annual and it only takes a 

 few minutes, but it is very important. It has a place on the Rotax 

 inspection check list to record your test info and should be logged in 

 your logbook for the inspection. (The owners that come to me, don't bother 

 to look in the book, it's there.B))



 You will need a set of metric allen wrenches and a fish scale. Something 

 that reads between 0-50 lbs. Don't use something that read really high as 

 it won't be accurate down at the bottom numbers where we want to measure. 

 I use a digital fish scale. You will need a piece of string too.



 As far as the how to perform this check, well let's take a look.

 While you have the prop spinner off for the inspection is a good time to 

 do this. First remove the M8x20 plug screw for the locking pin . It is 

 located about 3.5" above the magnetic oil plug. It is gold colored and has 

 an upward angle on the head. I believe it is a number 6 allen screw. 

 Remove it. Get the black 1 3/4" crankshaft locking pin out of the Rotax 

 orange tool kit. We will need to rotate the prop which can be done with 

 one plug out of each cylinder or they can be left in. You will need a 

 flash light to find the crankshaft locking pin grove. You are going to 

 shine the light down the hole where you just took out the screw where the 

 locking pin will be inserted. Slowly rotate the prop counterclockwise 

 while looking in the hole. You may only see blackness, keep rotating until 

 you see a shiny smooth oily surface. Continue to rotate slowly and you 

 will see what looks like a notch or a "V". If you continue it will be 

 shiny smooth again. Stop and go back to that "V" or notc!

 h. Move the prop back and forth slightly to get it centered. Now take the 

 locking pin and screw this in. It should stop with 3/4" still sticking 

 out. Hold the prop and slightly wiggle it while you snug up the locking 

 pin into the center of the notch. Now your crankshaft should be locked. 

 Absolutely do not screw the locking pin in further if it just keeps going. 

 That means you missed. Take it out and look for the smooth oily surface 

 and notch again. This is very easy so don't worry.

 Now with the crankshaft locked the prop can still move approximately 30 

 degrees. Push the prop back all the way counterclockwise until it stops. 

 Take a tape measure and measure out from the center of the prop hub 

 outward along the blade between 24-30 inches. It doesn't matter what 

 number you pick. If you pick 26", 28" or 30" it doesn't matter. Put a 

 little pencil or a mark at your measurement.

 You need your string now around the prop at your mark. Now take your scale 

 and hook it on the string. In a nice straight and even pressure pull, pull 

 the scale and prop. Watch how much the scale reads. I usually do this 2-3 

 times to make sure my reading is accurate. So let's say your reading was 

 17 lbs. To find the torque measurement we take that number 17 lbs. and 

 multiply it times the number of inches you measured out from the prop 

 center. Let's say you used 28" and had a 17 lb pull. 28 X 17 = 476 in/lbs

 That is a good number and is the number to record on the Rotax inspection 

 sheet. We look for a bottom number of 300 and the high end of 530 in/lbs. 

 In this case the higher the better. If you are at 490 in/lb verses 340 

 in/lb you are much better off. No it isn't worth the effort to pull the 

 gearbox to go from 450 to 510 and getting the friction right on is not an 

 exact science. It is accomplished by pulling the gearbox and using shims 

 to add more pre-load to the bellville washers that act as our spring 

 tension.

 Your done, take out the locking pin and don't loose it. replace the plug 

 screw at 133 in/lbs torque.



 If you are a member of the R.O.A.N. website you can look at this video 

 that demonstrates this very well.



 http://rotax-owner.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:friction-torque&catid=8:training&Itemid=174



 --------

 Roger Lee

 Tucson, Az.

 Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated

 Rotax Repair Center

 520-574-1080





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307071#307071

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:04 am Post subject: Re: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory

Hi Hugh,



Your right, I just assumed people would know, I should have been a little more specific.

- The Matronics RotaxEngines-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

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