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Dennis Johnson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 89
Location: N. Calif.
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 Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 5:42 pm Post subject: Bad Fuseblock? |
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Last week while flying my Lancair Legacy, one of my two "glass cockpit" screens went dark. The two screens are redundant, so continuing the flight was no problem. When I landed and back in the hangar, I replaced the fuse, hoping for the cheap and easy fix. Surprisingly, it seemed to fix the problem. Although the fuse I removed still looked good, the screen powered up normally with the new fuse. However, after about five minutes, I happened to touch the joint where the power wire connects to the fuse block and it was almost too hot to touch.
I figured I had a bad crimp on the Fast-On connector that attaches to the tab on the fuse block. I cut it off and tested it with my VOM. But I couldn't find any problem with it. I soldered a new piece of wire to replace the part I cut off and crimped a new Fast-On connector. I guessed that the fuse for some reason hadn't formed a gas-tight connection and removed and replaced it a number of times to burnish off the corrosion. I replaced the fuse and it now worked perfectly.
The fuse block, the ATO fuse, and the Fast-On connector were all name brand. The connector was Amp PIDG. There was no heat damage visible on the connector, which looked perfectly good. And tested perfectly good. The screen takes 2.0 amps at 14 volts and is fused at 5 amps. I have 350 hours and 3.5 years flying time on the airplane.
Anybody have a better hypotheses than the "internal corrosion between the tabs of the fuse and the fuse holder?" The fuse block is under the glareshield and protected from the elements.
Thanks,
Dennis
[quote][b]
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johnciolino(at)comcast.ne
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| Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:13 am Post subject: Bad Fuseblock? |
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I had the same problem with a hot connection to my strobe switch. Although the fast-on connector felt tight on the tab when I pulled it, at the advice of a knowledgeable friend, I crimped the ears of the tab down so it was even tighter on the tab. It solved the problem. My next step, if that didn’t work, was to re crimp the connector onto the wire.
John Ciolino
RV-8
N894Y
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis Johnson
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 9:32 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Bad Fuseblock?
Last week while flying my Lancair Legacy, one of my two "glass cockpit" screens went dark. The two screens are redundant, so continuing the flight was no problem. When I landed and back in the hangar, I replaced the fuse, hoping for the cheap and easy fix. Surprisingly, it seemed to fix the problem. Although the fuse I removed still looked good, the screen powered up normally with the new fuse. However, after about five minutes, I happened to touch the joint where the power wire connects to the fuse block and it was almost too hot to touch.
I figured I had a bad crimp on the Fast-On connector that attaches to the tab on the fuse block. I cut it off and tested it with my VOM. But I couldn't find any problem with it. I soldered a new piece of wire to replace the part I cut off and crimped a new Fast-On connector. I guessed that the fuse for some reason hadn't formed a gas-tight connection and removed and replaced it a number of times to burnish off the corrosion. I replaced the fuse and it now worked perfectly.
The fuse block, the ATO fuse, and the Fast-On connector were all name brand. The connector was Amp PIDG. There was no heat damage visible on the connector, which looked perfectly good. And tested perfectly good. The screen takes 2.0 amps at 14 volts and is fused at 5 amps. I have 350 hours and 3.5 years flying time on the airplane.
Anybody have a better hypotheses than the "internal corrosion between the tabs of the fuse and the fuse holder?" The fuse block is under the glareshield and protected from the elements.
Thanks,
Dennis
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Dennis Johnson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 89
Location: N. Calif.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:06 am Post subject: Bad Fuseblock? |
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In reply to my post about a possibly bad fuse block, John replied,
"I had the same problem with a hot connection to my strobe switch. Although
the fast-on connector felt tight on the tab when I pulled it, at the advice
of a knowledgeable friend, I crimped the ears of the tab down so it was even
tighter on the tab. It solved the problem. My next step, if that didn't
work, was to re crimp the connector onto the wire.
John Ciolino"
Thanks, John, I hadn't thought about the ears of the tab on the Fast-On connector opening up. I still have the connector and I'll measure the gap. It was am AMP PIDG connector, so I might be able to get the correct gap from their website. If nothing else, I have a box of unused ones I can compare it to.
Thanks,
Dennis
[quote][b]
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Greg Green
Joined: 20 May 2008
Posts: 7
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:11 pm Post subject: Bad Fuseblock? |
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Slightly off-topic from the hot connector, but it seemed like a good point to ask whether anyone was aware of the revised NTSB Part 830 rules on reporting. Dennis was not required to report as only 50% of his displays went blank. Here is the relevant new rule:
Immediate notification: Notify the nearest NTSB field office when:
(a) An aircraft accident or any of the following listed incidents occur:
......
(9) A complete loss of information, excluding flickering, from more than 50% of an aircraft’s electronic instrumentation displays (PFD, etc.); I haven't seen much discussion on this on the list, perhaps because it is so new??? Effective Mar 10, 2010.
| Quote: |
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 9:32 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com (aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Bad Fuseblock?
Last week while flying my Lancair Legacy, one of my two "glass cockpit" screens went dark. The two screens are redundant, so continuing the flight was no problem. When I landed and back in the hangar, I replaced the fuse, hoping for the cheap and easy fix. Surprisingly, it seemed to fix the problem. Although the fuse I removed still looked good, the screen powered up normally with the new fuse. However, after about five minutes, I happened to touch the joint where the power wire connects to the fuse block and it was almost too hot to touch.
I figured I had a bad crimp on the Fast-On connector that attaches to the tab on the fuse block. I cut it off and tested it with my VOM. But I couldn't find any problem with it. I soldered a new piece of wire to replace the part I cut off and crimped a new Fast-On connector. I guessed that the fuse for some reason hadn't formed a gas-tight connection and removed and replaced it a number of times to burnish off the corrosion. I replaced the fuse and it now worked perfectly.
The fuse block, the ATO fuse, and the Fast-On connector were all name brand. The connector was Amp PIDG. There was no heat damage visible on the connector, which looked perfectly good. And tested perfectly good. The screen takes 2.0 amps at 14 volts and is fused at 5 amps. I have 350 hours and 3.5 years flying time on the airplane.
Anybody have a better hypotheses than the "internal corrosion between the tabs of the fuse and the fuse holder?" The fuse block is under the glareshield and protected from the elements.
Thanks,
Dennis
012 34567 89
0
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--
Greg
[quote][b]
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