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RE. Doors and body work

 
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rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:37 am    Post subject: RE. Doors and body work Reply with quote

Patrick,

1) Regarding the order of events having to do with the panel and the canopy. I'd say with a 1000 airplanes under construction, you'll get 1000 answers. Here's what I did in order: 1- All work on inside top surface of canopy including fit-up to fuse 2- Built and finished overhead plenum with canopy off plane including install of rear windows. 3- Installed canopy on plane then fit doors. 4- completed all wiring and panel and built my glare shield-defroster plenum detail. 5- Installed windscreen, built fairing, doing body work on whole canopy-windscreen-doors as a big single assembly.

2) Regarding the piping around the instrument panel. This is part of my defroster plenum/ instrument panel detail that I laid up out of fiberglass. It does three things: deflects defrost air from cooling fans right onto the windscreen, hides the hand holds cut into fuse that I don't like and hides the two computer fans that draw warm air out of instrument panel area, and three, provides a nice rounded finished edge to frame out the panel. You can see the progression of construction in the following album: http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/GlareShieldWindshield#

3) Regarding material used on interior. 1) Filled in voids in interior canopy that I didn't like with X-30 expanding foam and then reshaped the way I liked it. 2) laid up a couple layers of light weight cloth over foam. 3) West system epoxy with a progression of fillers, primarily 407 and 410 filler. 4) Final detail filling with Super-Fil 5) a ridiculous amount of sanding all along 6) UV super prime -filler sprayed on with a true HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip 7) more sanding and now ready for final paint. (I'm using the same process on the exterior, except no need for any filling with foam as in step 1) see: http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/OverheadConsole02#   and http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork02# for the photos



Bob Newman


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roxianmike(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 2:44 pm    Post subject: RE. Doors and body work Reply with quote

Bob can you share the product info on the foam you used?  Not familiar with the X-30 reference. Thank you!
 
From: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE. RV10-List: Doors and body work
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:29:51 -0400

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Patrick,
 
1) Regarding the order of events having to do with the panel and the canopy.   I'd say with a 1000 airplanes under construction, you'll get 1000 answers.   Here's what I did in order:   1- All work on inside top surface of canopy including fit-up to fuse  2- Built and finished overhead plenum with canopy off plane including install of rear windows.  3- Installed canopy on plane then fit doors.   4- completed all wiring and panel and built my glare shield-defroster plenum detail.   5- Installed windscreen, built fairing, doing body work on whole canopy-windscreen-doors as a big single assembly.
 
2)  Regarding the piping around the instrument panel.   This is part of my defroster plenum/ instrument panel detail that I laid up out of fiberglass.   It does three things:  deflects defrost air from cooling fans right onto the windscreen, hides the hand holds cut into fuse that I don't like and hides the two computer fans that draw warm air out of instrument panel area,  and three, provides a nice rounded finished edge to frame out the panel.   You can see the progression of construction in the following album:  http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/GlareShieldWindshield#
 
3) Regarding material used on interior.   1) Filled in voids in interior canopy that I didn't like with X-30 expanding foam and then reshaped the way I liked it.  2) laid up a couple layers of light weight cloth over foam.  3) West system epoxy with a progression of fillers,  primarily 407 and 410 filler.  4) Final detail filling with  Super-Fil    5) a ridiculous amount of sanding all along   6)  UV super prime -filler sprayed on with a true HVLP gun with a 1.8 tip    7) more sanding and now ready for final paint.    (I'm using the same process on the exterior, except no need for any filling with foam as in step 1)   see:  http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/OverheadConsole02#     and http://picasaweb.google.com/rcnewman64/FiberglassWork02#    for the photos
 
 
 
Bob Newman
  
 
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johngoodman



Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 5:25 am    Post subject: Re: RE. Doors and body work Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure he's referring to Tap Plastics X-30 expanding foam. Expands 30 times and is hand mixed. I don't think X-30 is fireproof, so I would put it in the same category as Great Stuff. If you're building a boat, X-30 is perfect for filling voids.

I've been using Abesco FP200. It's fire resistant and won't hold moisture. It only expands about 2x but that is sometimes a good thing in tight places. It hardens as a "beautiful blob of bright pink." It will match the canopy and doors, so you won't have to paint (g).
It's a little pricey when you get it shipped - I typically pay about $45 total for two cans. The cans are big and tall, but probably put out the same amount as a Great Stuff can.

John


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