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deal on the Jaguar cowling

 
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:03 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far, I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:26 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

[quote][b]

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

On 10/11/2010 1:00 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far, I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.


I missed the email where you were giving them away. I'll take a free one .... even though I don't have a use for it.
Hope that makes you feel better.
Tell ya what .... I'll even pick up the shipping!!! Very Happy
Linn

[quote][b]


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n2_narcosis(at)YAHOO.COM
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:00 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Gary,
If it is any consolation I want one, I just can't afford it and the powerflow as well. Do you do payment plans?

Brock

--- On Mon, 10/11/10, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM> wrote:

Quote:

From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling
To: "Teamgrumman List" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 12:00 PM

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far, I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.




Quote:


st" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



[quote][b]


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mark.t.mueller(at)comcast
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 6:29 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling.  So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges?  Will my nose bowl landing light work in the new
cowling, or do I need a new light system as well?

I really am interested, but I don't need any more wall-ornaments!
It's the 'hidden costs' that are a killer...

Thanks,

Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:39 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

I talked with Darrin at Power Flow about offering a deal to the 10 people who order the cowling. He's working on it.

From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 11:14:24 AM
Subject: Re: deal on the Jaguar cowling

On 10/11/2010 1:00 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far, I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.


I missed the email where you were giving them away. I'll take a free one .... even though I don't have a use for it.
Hope that makes you feel better.
Tell ya what .... I'll even pick up the shipping!!! Very Happy
Linn

Quote:




[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:45 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Brock,
hold that thought. I may need to start taking credit cards.

From: Brock Windsor <n2_narcosis(at)YAHOO.COM>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, October 11, 2010 5:57:26 PM
Subject: Re: deal on the Jaguar cowling

Gary,
If it is any consolation I want one, I just can't afford it and the powerflow as well. Do you do payment plans?

Brock

--- On Mon, 10/11/10, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM> wrote:

Quote:

From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling
To: "Teamgrumman List" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com>
Date: Monday, October 11, 2010, 12:00 PM

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far, I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.




Quote:


st" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-Listet=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



Quote:




[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:21 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Hi Mark,
All very good questions.
As delivered, the cowling should (optimum world) fit with just trimming to the 'end-of-part' lines. I'll try a couple just to make sure.
In the original installation instructions, the baffles needed to be mostly fabricated from an RV6 baffle set. That no longer applies. I've spent waaaaay tooooo much time and money fine tuning the baffles. They will fit with minor trim and rivets.
You'll need a centerline hinge from Fletcher. Get one that has had the plastic removed before it was riveted together. Get one that ISN'T painted. For some reason, on the last several I've received, the plastic has been left on one side and then the whole piece is painted with rattle can primer. It looks very hacked. With a clean, no paint hinge, you can mask it after install, prime and paint the upper cowling, and leave the hinge silver. Looks good. Plus, the paint won't crack and look like shit the first time you open the cowling.
The landing light housing I use takes the stock landing light hardware. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to install (after you install the nut plates), you're doing something wrong.
The cowling is held down by #4 or #5 cam locks. Depends on how much paint is on there. Mine uses #5, the last one, Ned's used #4. You'll need 10 cam-lock studs, retainer rings, and receptacles.
That's about it.
Gary

From: Mark T. Mueller <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:26:04 AM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark T. Mueller" <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM (teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM)>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges? Will my nose bowl landing light [quote][b]


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md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:45 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Gary, Did you ever make the upper cowling 1 piece, no center hinge for doors? If its a option I would like no doors except an oil dip stick door.

Scott Trejo

On Oct 12, 2010, at 3:15 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
Hi Mark,
All very good questions.
As delivered, the cowling should (optimum world) fit with just trimming to the 'end-of-part' lines. I'll try a couple just to make sure.
In the original installation instructions, the baffles needed to be mostly fabricated from an RV6 baffle set. That no longer applies. I've spent waaaaay tooooo much time and money fine tuning the baffles. They will fit with minor trim and rivets.
You'll need a centerline hinge from Fletcher. Get one that has had the plastic removed before it was riveted together. Get one that ISN'T painted. For some reason, on the last several I've received, the plastic has been left on one side and then the whole piece is painted with rattle can primer. It looks very hacked. With a clean, no paint hinge, you can mask it after install, prime and paint the upper cowling, and leave the hinge silver. Looks good. Plus, the paint won't crack and look like shit the first time you open the cowling.
The landing light housing I use takes the stock landing light hardware. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to install (after you install the nut plates), you're doing something wrong.
The cowling is held down by #4 or #5 cam locks. Depends on how much paint is on there. Mine uses #5, the last one, Ned's used #4. You'll need 10 cam-lock studs, retainer rings, and receptacles.
That's about it.
Gary

From: Mark T. Mueller <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:26:04 AM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark T. Mueller" <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM (teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM)>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges? Will my nose bowl landing light
Quote:


href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution




[quote][b]


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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Phil(at)ReliantAir.com
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:51 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Gary, I’m ready to send a deposit for a cowling for a 1979 tiger with existing short stack Power Flo.   Need to know where to send it and what happens if you don’t reach the magic ten.

I do have a few questions:

<![if !supportLists]>1. <![endif]>Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
<![if !supportLists]>2. <![endif]>Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval?   What’s your best guess.
<![if !supportLists]>3. <![endif]>Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
<![if !supportLists]>4. <![endif]>Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
<![if !supportLists]>5. <![endif]>Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
<![if !supportLists]>6. <![endif]>I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
<![if !supportLists]>7. <![endif]>Do you have any data on  the Delta T in ⁰F  between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5  with the new cowl?

Other than question two most of my questions can be addressed with detailed pics.


Phil Kelsey
Reliant Air
Danbury, CT 06810
(203) 743-5100



[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:00 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

No, it's split like the original.

From: Scott Trejo <md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 1:43:09 PM
Subject: Re: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

Gary, Did you ever make the upper cowling 1 piece, no center hinge for doors? If its a option I would like no doors except an oil dip stick door.

Scott Trejo

On Oct 12, 2010, at 3:15 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
Hi Mark,
All very good questions.
As delivered, the cowling should (optimum world) fit with just trimming to the 'end-of-part' lines. I'll try a couple just to make sure.
In the original installation instructions, the baffles needed to be mostly fabricated from an RV6 baffle set. That no longer applies. I've spent waaaaay tooooo much time and money fine tuning the baffles. They will fit with minor trim and rivets.
You'll need a centerline hinge from Fletcher. Get one that has had the plastic removed before it was riveted together. Get one that ISN'T painted. For some reason, on the last several I've received, the plastic has been left on one side and then the whole piece is painted with rattle can primer. It looks very hacked. With a clean, no paint hinge, you can mask it after install, prime and paint the upper cowling, and leave the hinge silver. Looks good. Plus, the paint won't crack and look like shit the first time you open the cowling.
The landing light housing I use takes the stock landing light hardware. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to install (after you install the nut plates), you're doing something wrong.
The cowling is held down by #4 or #5 cam locks. Depends on how much paint is on there. Mine uses #5, the last one, Ned's used #4. You'll need 10 cam-lock studs, retainer rings, and receptacles.
That's about it.
Gary

From: Mark T. Mueller <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:26:04 AM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark T. Mueller" <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM (teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM)>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges? Will my nose bowl landing light
Quote:


href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution







[quote][b]


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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n2_narcosis(at)YAHOO.COM
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Gary,
So you use the same hinge the factory upper cowling uses with camlocks to hold the halves down instead of the crappy latches and the nosebowl and lower is one piece that is split vertically for easy access to alternator?

Brock

--- On Tue, 10/12/10, Scott Trejo <md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM> wrote:

Quote:

From: Scott Trejo <md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, October 12, 2010, 3:43 PM

Gary, Did you ever make the upper cowling 1 piece, no center hinge for doors? If its a option I would like no doors except an oil dip stick door.

Scott Trejo

On Oct 12, 2010, at 3:15 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
Hi Mark,


All very good questions.


As delivered, the cowling should (optimum world) fit with just trimming to the 'end-of-part' lines. I'll try a couple just to make sure.


In the original installation instructions, the baffles needed to be mostly fabricated from an RV6 baffle set. That no longer applies. I've spent waaaaay tooooo much time and money fine tuning the baffles. They will fit with minor trim and rivets.


You'll need a centerline hinge from Fletcher.  Get one that has had the plastic removed before it was riveted together. Get one that ISN'T painted. For some reason, on the last several I've received, the plastic has been left on one side and then the whole piece is painted with rattle can primer. It looks very hacked.  With a clean, no paint hinge, you can mask it after install, prime and paint the upper cowling, and leave the hinge silver. Looks good. Plus, the paint won't crack and look like shit the first time you open the cowling.


The landing light housing I use takes the stock landing light hardware. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to install (after you install the nut plates), you're doing something wrong.


The cowling is held down by #4 or #5 cam locks. Depends on how much paint is on there. Mine uses #5, the last one, Ned's used #4. You'll need 10 cam-lock studs, retainer rings, and receptacles.


That's about it.


Gary

From: Mark T. Mueller <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:26:04 AM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark T. Mueller" <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net (mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net)>

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM (teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM)>
Subject: TeamGrumman-List: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges? Will my nose bowl landing light
Quote:


href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution





st" rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution



[quote][b]


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:25 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Yes. see pics. Here is half a cowling fitted to a Cheetah.

From: Brock Windsor <n2_narcosis(at)YAHOO.COM>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 8:38:17 PM
Subject: Re: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

Gary,
So you use the same hinge the factory upper cowling uses with camlocks to hold the halves down instead of the crappy latches and the nosebowl and lower is one piece that is split vertically for easy access to alternator?

Brock

--- On Tue, 10/12/10, Scott Trejo <md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM> wrote:

Quote:

From: Scott Trejo <md11strejo(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, October 12, 2010, 3:43 PM

Gary, Did you ever make the upper cowling 1 piece, no center hinge for doors? If its a option I would like no doors except an oil dip stick door.

Scott Trejo

On Oct 12, 2010, at 3:15 PM, Gary Vogt wrote:
Quote:
Hi Mark,


All very good questions.


As delivered, the cowling should (optimum world) fit with just trimming to the 'end-of-part' lines. I'll try a couple just to make sure.


In the original installation instructions, the baffles needed to be mostly fabricated from an RV6 baffle set. That no longer applies. I've spent waaaaay tooooo much time and money fine tuning the baffles. They will fit with minor trim and rivets.


You'll need a centerline hinge from Fletcher. Get one that has had the plastic removed before it was riveted together. Get one that ISN'T painted. For some reason, on the last several I've received, the plastic has been left on one side and then the whole piece is painted with rattle can primer. It looks very hacked. With a clean, no paint hinge, you can mask it after install, prime and paint the upper cowling, and leave the hinge silver. Looks good. Plus, the paint won't crack and look like shit the first time you open the cowling.


The landing light housing I use takes the stock landing light hardware. If it takes longer than 5 minutes to install (after you install the nut plates), you're doing something wrong.


The cowling is held down by #4 or #5 cam locks. Depends on how much paint is on there. Mine uses #5, the last one, Ned's used #4. You'll need 10 cam-lock studs, retainer rings, and receptacles.


That's about it.


Gary

From: Mark T. Mueller <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 7:26:04 AM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "Mark T. Mueller" <mark.t.mueller(at)comcast.net>

Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
From: Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling

I heard that AJ posted to the GG about the deal on the Jaguar cowling. So far,

I've heard nothing.

Can't seem to give 'em away.
___________________________________________________________

Gary,

I am interested, but would like what the "fly-away" cost really looks like.

I understand you buy the cowling...

Then I would have to upgrade my PF exhaust from the Donkey D style to
the internal...

Then you have to install, then remove for paint...

Any other hardware, accessory or other necessary costs associated with
installation?

Latches, hinges? Will my nose bowl landing light
Quote:


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:40 am    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Phil,
your email went to the spam folder. here are the answers to your questions.

1.  Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
----- pic shows the cowling on my plane and a fresh cowling in the foreground.
2.  Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
----- probably. but you don't gain anything. It takes just a sec to open the cowling and servicing is pretty easy. the centerline hinge adds some rigidity to the cowling.
3.  Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
----- it's like the original.
4.   Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
----- just the upper doors use cam-locks.
5.   Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
----- probably. my original design used the boot. I hated it. Makes R&R of the cowling too much work. see pic. since this was taken, the landing light opening has been moved down and outboard to the left.
6. I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
----- I did the STC with-respect-to improved cooling. I didn't want top open up the performance change can-of-worms.  Realistically, at the same rpm, expect about 5 knots. on the original plane, 119ST, I saw anywhere between 6 and 10 knots increase. side-by-side with a stock plane, you'll see less fuel burn at the same rpm speeds and settings.
7. Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 (sic) with the new cowl?
----- I think you mean 1 & 3 and 2 & 4.  On my plane, ported and polished cylinders, at 2700 rpm, I can get the CHT delta down to 20 degrees. EGTs down to 10 degrees delta. #1 runs hot on climb-out.
Any more questions, feel free to ask.

From: Phil Kelsey <Phil(at)ReliantAir.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 2:49:06 PM
Subject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: deal on the Jaguar cowling



Gary, I’m ready to send a deposit for a cowling for a 1979 tiger with existing short stack Power Flo.   Need to know where to send it and what happens if you don’t reach the magic ten.

I do have a few questions:

1.   Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
2. Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
3. Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
4. Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
5. Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
6. I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
7. Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F  between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 with the new cowl?

Other than question two most of my questions can be addressed with detailed pics.


Phil Kelsey
Reliant Air
Danbury, CT 06810
(203) 743-5100



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 4:03 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Great, thanks for the response.   As I stated I am ready to send a deposit.  Where do I send it and what happens if you don’t get to enough takers to do the batch of cowls?

Thanks, Phil

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 14:35
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: deal on the Jaguar cowling



Phil,



your email went to the spam folder. here are the answers to your questions.



1.   Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
----- pic shows the cowling on my plane and a fresh cowling in the foreground.

2.   Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
----- probably. but you don't gain anything. It takes just a sec to open the cowling and servicing is pretty easy. the centerline hinge adds some rigidity to the cowling.

3.   Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
----- it's like the original.

4.   Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
----- just the upper doors use cam-locks.

5.   Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
----- probably. my original design used the boot. I hated it. Makes R&R of the cowling too much work. see pic. since this was taken, the landing light opening has been moved down and outboard to the left.

6.   I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
----- I did the STC with-respect-to improved cooling. I didn't want top open up the performance change can-of-worms. Realistically, at the same rpm, expect about 5 knots. on the original plane, 119ST, I saw anywhere between 6 and 10 knots increase. side-by-side with a stock plane, you'll see less fuel burn at the same rpm speeds and settings.

7.   Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 (sic) with the new cowl?
----- I think you mean 1 & 3 and 2 & 4. On my plane, ported and polished cylinders, at 2700 rpm, I can get the CHT delta down to 20 degrees. EGTs down to 10 degrees delta. #1 runs hot on climb-out.



Any more questions, feel free to ask.



From: Phil Kelsey <Phil(at)ReliantAir.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 2:49:06 PM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling

Gary, I’m ready to send a deposit for a cowling for a 1979 tiger with existing short stack Power Flo. Need to know where to send it and what happens if you don’t reach the magic ten.

I do have a few questions:

1.   Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
2.   Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
3.   Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
4.   Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
5.   Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
6.   I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
7.   Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 with the new cowl?

Other than question two most of my questions can be addressed with detailed pics.


Phil Kelsey
Reliant Air
Danbury, CT 06810
(203) 743-5100



Quote:
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List">http://www.matron="_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co http:/========================










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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 6:24 pm    Post subject: deal on the Jaguar cowling Reply with quote

Phil, and all others interested in the Jaguar cowling,
Obviously, there are some big advantages for me to get all 10 on order. The number 1 advantage is buying the materials and epoxy resins in bulk. Second, once Dave gets going, he can keep someone employed for weeks at a time while laying up the cowlings.
Right now, your offer is the only really serious one I have. If you wish to put a deposit on one before the holidays, I'll sell it to you for that price.  
Please send a check for $3250.00 made payable to
Gary L Vogt
2945 Bell Road #150
Auburn, CA 95603
The balance os $3000.00 is due when the cowling is ready to ship.
Thanks
Gary


From: Phil Kelsey <Phil(at)ReliantAir.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, October 15, 2010 5:00:55 PM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling


Great, thanks for the response. As I stated I am ready to send a deposit. Where do I send it and what happens if you don’t get to enough takers to do the batch of cowls?

Thanks, Phil

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 14:35
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: deal on the Jaguar cowling



Phil,



your email went to the spam folder. here are the answers to your questions.



1.  Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
----- pic shows the cowling on my plane and a fresh cowling in the foreground.

2. Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
----- probably. but you don't gain anything. It takes just a sec to open the cowling and servicing is pretty easy. the centerline hinge adds some rigidity to the cowling.

3. Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
----- it's like the original.

4. Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
----- just the upper doors use cam-locks.

5. Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
----- probably.  my original design used the boot. I hated it. Makes R&R of the cowling too much work. see pic. since this was taken, the landing light opening has been moved down and outboard to the left.

6. I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
----- I did the STC with-respect-to improved cooling. I didn't want top open up the performance change can-of-worms. Realistically, at the same rpm, expect about 5 knots. on the original plane, 119ST, I saw anywhere between 6 and 10 knots increase. side-by-side with a stock plane, you'll see less fuel burn at the same rpm speeds and settings.

7. Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 (sic) with the new cowl?
----- I think you mean 1 & 3 and 2 & 4. On my plane, ported and polished cylinders, at 2700 rpm, I can get the CHT delta down to 20 degrees. EGTs down to 10 degrees delta. #1 runs hot on climb-out.



Any more questions, feel free to ask.



From: Phil Kelsey <Phil(at)ReliantAir.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 2:49:06 PM
Subject: RE: deal on the Jaguar cowling
 
Gary, I’m ready to send a deposit for a cowling for a 1979 tiger with existing short stack Power Flo. Need to know where to send it and what happens if you don’t reach the magic ten.

I do have a few questions:

1. Can you post some pictures on your web site or send me pics with enough detail to show where cam locks are installed, what the aft cooling ramps look like from inside and outside the cowl,
What the nose strut accommodation looks like, and some pics of the baffle installation.
2. Could the top cowling be installed without the hinge and adding an oil door using a field approval? What’s your best guess.
3. Is the aft portion of the top cowling attached using cam locks or does it float like the oem one?
4.   Is the whole cowling held together with cam locks or just the top cowl to the bottom?
5. Can I use the existing rubber nose strut boot? Or what is the method used to accommodate the nose strut?
6.   I assume there is no measureable speed increase, correct?
7.   Do you have any data on the Delta T in ⁰F between cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 with the new cowl?

Other than question two most of my questions can be addressed with detailed pics.


Phil Kelsey
Reliant Air
Danbury, CT 06810
(203) 743-5100



Quote:
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