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larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca
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 Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject: countersinks/dimples |
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Guys
I need some opinions. I'm working on the main wing spars, and have a debate on going with a couple of builders.
The question is how deep do you make a countersink in the spar flange to nest the dimples in the wing skin?
I've been told (by a reliable source) to make the countersink only deep enough so that when a rivet is dropped into the countersunk hole, you should see a thin line around the top of the rivet. However at this depth, the wing skin does not lay completely tight to the spar flange.
When I use a scrap and make a test dimple, the countersink is deeper than the "thin line" method I've been told.
All opinions welcomed.
Regards,
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
[quote][b]
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philperry9(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject: countersinks/dimples |
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I countersink slightly more than the rivet so the skins will lay flat.
Phil
On Thu, Dec 30, 2010 at 10:21 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca (larkrv10(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
[quote] Guys
I need some opinions. I'm working on the main wing spars, and have a debate on going with a couple of builders.
The question is how deep do you make a countersink in the spar flange to nest the dimples in the wing skin?
I've been told (by a reliable source) to make the countersink only deep enough so that when a rivet is dropped into the countersunk hole, you should see a thin line around the top of the rivet. However at this depth, the wing skin does not lay completely tight to the spar flange.
When I use a scrap and make a test dimple, the countersink is deeper than the "thin line" method I've been told.
All opinions welcomed.
Regards,
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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glastar(at)gmx.net
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:33 pm Post subject: countersinks/dimples |
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Rick,
Van's tells in chapter 5 to add 2 more clicks on the countersink tool.
Werner
On 31.12.2010 05:21, Rick Lark wrote:
| Quote: | Guys
I need some opinions. I'm working on the main wing spars, and have a
debate on going with a couple of builders.
The question is how deep do you make a countersink in the spar flange to
nest the dimples in the wing skin?
I've been told (by a reliable source) to make the countersink only deep
enough so that when a rivet is dropped into the countersunk hole, you
should see a thin line around the top of the rivet. However at this
depth, the wing skin does not lay completely tight to the spar flange.
When I use a scrap and make a test dimple, the countersink is deeper
than the "thin line" method I've been told.
All opinions welcomed.
Regards,
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
*
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:42 pm Post subject: Re: countersinks/dimples |
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I made test dimples in .025, .032, .040 with #40, #30, #10(#10 Screw), #19(#8 Screw), #28(#6 Screw). Using a dial depth micrometer the rivet will set anywhere from .005-.010" below surface depending on thickness of the dimpled piece. I only measured when I started the build. Do your first csk a click or two deeper at a time and check fit of test dimple. If test dimple moves back and forth sideways you have gone too deep. Go one click shallower and try next hole. Watch when you get to the ends of your pieces as the csk tool is not supported well and you can go really deep then. Also clean out burrs from under the tool each time. Turn the bit slowly and hold the pieces in your hand to better feel for tool/piece alignment.
Many times I have had to do the csk without the tool because in many places the smallest microstop won't fit. Then just eyeball the rest to make them match the first that you used your test dimple on. You can either install a cutter in 90 degree drill kit(snake) or use it in deburring handle(by hand) or duburring extension(with drill). The csk will not be as pretty but it is usually not in a visible location and you can always shave/grind a little of the rivet head away if needed.
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Wayne G. |
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