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Removing cowl gills/shutters

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yakplt(at)yahoo.com
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Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:33 am Post subject: Removing cowl gills/shutters

A note on removing the shutters.  If you do that on a YAK-50 or 52, you will soon start seeing damage occur in or near the nose tube piece that the cowl rivets to.  The gills in a 50/52 actually provide structural support for the cowl ring, which in turn supports the actual cowl (upper and lower). I don't know about a CJ, but it is probably the same.  



The solution is to run four struts from the former inner nose ring (studs in engine reduction gear case) out to the cowl support ring that the cowl sits on when it clamps shut.  Basically you are providing four rigid rods structurally connecting the front of the engine to the cowl ring. 



In the Yak 50/52, removing the gills/shutters and not installing these support rods will mean you are going to have cowl and cowl ring damage very soon.  The first indication you will have is the horizontal support rods coming out from the engine cylinders to the cowl ring will start breaking.   



I learned this hard lesson by ruining an engine cowl.    



Mark

--- On Sat, 1/8/11, Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   From: Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com>

 Subject: Re: Auto Spark Plug Conversion

 To: "yak-list" <yak-list(at)matronics.com>

 Date: Saturday, January 8, 2011, 7:27 AM

 

 Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com>

 

 The BR6HS is in the mid-range of heat transfer range. I

 found the -6 to be a good all-around choice but I prefer the

 hotter -5 or even BR4HS for the way I run my engine. I don't

 think there is any "best" plug, it's all about what's best

 for the way the engine is operated.

 

 For M-14P's that are mostly operated at Cruise I or II

 settings, the warmer plugs will burn off more lead and

 combustion deposits. I have also removed my shutters since I

 set my 24" dia. Crowder spinner inside the cowling opening.

 

 For short durations at high power settings, such as mostly

 acro sessions, the cooler range spark plugs may be the best

 compromise.

 

 Craig Payne

 

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cpayne(at)joimail.com
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:53 am Post subject: Removing cowl gills/shutters

Of course I beefed up the support ring for operating without the shutters. I too learned the hard way and ended up making new "L" brackets out of 4130 steel for the support ring.



Another thing to watch are the mount rubber donuts. I now make the older, push-in kind. Going to the newer (CJ) screw-in donut requires getting new mounts.



Craig Payne

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cjpilot710(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:11 am Post subject: Removing cowl gills/shutters

You make the rubber donuts -push-in type?  I am interested.

   Pappy

 

   

 

 

   Subject: Re: Removing cowl gills/shutters

 

    	  Quote: 	
		  --> Yak-List message posted by: Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com (cpayne(at)joimail.com)>



Of course I beefed up the support ring for operating without the shutters. I too 

learned the hard way and ended up making new "L" brackets out of 4130 steel for 

the support ring.



Another thing to watch are the mount rubber donuts. I now make the older, 

push-in kind. Going to the newer (CJ) screw-in donut requires getting new 

mounts.



Craig Payne



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yakplt(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:58 am Post subject: Removing cowl gills/shutters

Really?  How when where and how much?    Will they work in a M-14 mount, or am I just dreaming?  

  

 Mark

 



--- On Mon, 1/10/11, cjpilot710(at)aol.com <cjpilot710(at)aol.com> wrote:



  	  Quote: 	
		  

From: cjpilot710(at)aol.com <cjpilot710(at)aol.com>

Subject: Re: Re: Removing cowl gills/shutters

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Monday, January 10, 2011, 9:07 AM



  You make the rubber donuts -push-in type?  I am interested.

 Pappy



 

 Subject: Re: Removing cowl gills/shutters



  	  Quote: 	
		  --> Yak-List message posted by: Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com (cpayne(at)joimail.com)>



Of course I beefed up the support ring for operating without the shutters. I too 

learned the hard way and ended up making new "L" brackets out of 4130 steel for 

the support ring.



Another thing to watch are the mount rubber donuts. I now make the older, 

push-in kind. Going to the newer (CJ) screw-in donut requires getting new 

mounts.



Craig Payne



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