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countersinking baffle holes

 
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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:10 am    Post subject: countersinking baffle holes Reply with quote

On page 18-4 step 6 we countersink the tank skins to attach the tank baffles to. It tells us to leave every 10th hole uncountersunk for alignment issues (these holes are countersunk and riveted later, after proseal has cured). I guess I just don't understand why it's asking us to do this. Everything is final drilled and should line up perfectly. Is it just because of the added mess of the proseal??? Is this necessary to do or has anyone just countersunk all of them at once. Seems to me that countersinking and riveting after the proseal has cured is a sure way to try to make the tank leak.

Thanks
Bill
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rv10flyer



Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364

PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:44 am    Post subject: Re: countersinking baffle holes Reply with quote

A dimple or machine countersunk hole is enlarged to the point that your baffle will not seat properly. The seal is made with a nice layer/bead that pushes up in front of baffle bend line as you install it. I am sure some sealing takes place around the rivets too, but your main seal needs to be that inside corner. I just followed the plans, using almost 1 qt per tank. Just before baffles are installed I thinned sealant with toluene/toluol max 15% by wt then went over all joints and rivet shop heads. Then tested tanks to 1 psi with electronic manometer.(Water can be used too).

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Wayne G.
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william(at)gbta.net
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 12:05 pm    Post subject: countersinking baffle holes Reply with quote

Thanks Wayne. That answered my question.

Bill

--------------------------------------------------
From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2011 7:44 AM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: countersinking baffle holes

Quote:


A dimple or machine countersunk hole is enlarged to the point that your
baffle will not seat properly. The seal is made with a nice layer/bead
that pushes up in front of baffle bend line as you install it. I am sure
some sealing takes place around the rivets too, but your main seal needs
to be that inside corner. I just followed the plans, using almost 1 qt per
tank. Just before baffles are installed I thinned sealant with
toluene/toluol max 15% by wt then went over all joints and rivet shop
heads. Then tested tanks to 1 psi with electronic manometer.(Water can be
used too).

--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&amp;P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 41 Fwd top fuse skin/panel


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