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keithmckinley
Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Posts: 434
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 Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 12:09 pm Post subject: stripping and painting aluminum |
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Looking for your two cents worth!
I'm in the process of replacing some canopy glass and thought it would be a good time to repaint the canopy frame and components. I did some stripping of the exterior paint on the canopy and found the current polyurethane top coat came off pretty easily, The original Chinese green was a little harder and the gray Chinese primer is pretty difficult to completely remove. I have a couple questions.
Is blasting with walnut shells an option?
Should I use a stronger stripper to completely remove the small amount of primer?
Can any abrasive be used on the metal (scotch pads, etc)?
Prior to repainting I was planning to use PPG 533 aluminum cleaner followed by PPG 503 conditioner.
Then, should I prime with anything special or use a self priming Urethane paint?
Thanks
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k7wx
Joined: 24 May 2010
Posts: 117
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| Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 1:31 pm Post subject: stripping and painting aluminum |
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Keith,
I tried to strip the cowling of my CJ down to the bare aluminum and gave up. The Chinese paint came off OK, but that yellow primer was impossible to completely remove. Took it over to our local aircraft painting shop and they had something that took it off easily. So, visiting an aircraft paint shop may be the easy way to go.
As an alternative, get as much of the primer off as you can with the most potent stripper you can find and then gently sand off the remaining primer with fine grain sandpaper. Did this for several other smaller parts and it worked quite well.
Warren Hill
N464TW
On Feb 16, 2011, at 1:09 PM, keithmckinley wrote:
| Quote: |
Looking for your two cents worth!
I'm in the process of replacing some canopy glass and thought it would be a good time to repaint the canopy frame and components. I did some stripping of the exterior paint on the canopy and found the current polyurethane top coat came off pretty easily, The original Chinese green was a little harder and the gray Chinese primer is pretty difficult to completely remove. I have a couple questions.
Is blasting with walnut shells an option?
Should I use a stronger stripper to completely remove the small amount of primer?
Can any abrasive be used on the metal (scotch pads, etc)?
Prior to repainting I was planning to use PPG 533 aluminum cleaner followed by PPG 503 conditioner.
Then, should I prime with anything special or use a self priming Urethane paint?
Thanks
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331260#331260
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keithmckinley
Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Posts: 434
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| Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject: Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
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Good point Warren. I might be obsessing too much over nothing. 90% of the primer off and a little wet sand to blend it. I guess if it's that hard to get off it's not coming off!
Keith
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dougsappllc(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 6:04 pm Post subject: stripping and painting aluminum |
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Keith,With room temp at about 75 to 80F apply a thick coat of "aircraft" stripper then cover with plastic wrap, you must keep all the air away from the stripper to keep it from drying. Let it sit for 4 to 6 hours then hit it with a hot pressure washer. I use a 3000 PSI (at) 200F "Stinger III" pressure washer. This method works pretty well on most all epoxy type primers. Any residue can normally be wiped off with MEK.
Doug
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 5:38 PM, keithmckinley <keith.mckinley(at)townisp.com (keith.mckinley(at)townisp.com)> wrote:
[quote] --> Yak-List message posted by: "keithmckinley" <keith.mckinley(at)townisp.com (keith.mckinley(at)townisp.com)>
Good point Warren. I might be obsessing too much over nothing. 90% of the primer off and a little wet sand to blend it. I guess if it's that hard to get off it's not coming off!
Keith
--------
Keith McKinley
700HS
KFIT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331298#331298
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Noplugs
Joined: 27 Aug 2009
Posts: 35
Location: Houston, TX
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| Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:22 pm Post subject: Re: stripping and painting aluminum |
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I use aircraft striper from a car paint shop $32/gal. I put it on thick let it set then took a pressure washer and start the furthest away from you and work the gun toward you. In other words do not push the stripper the water will dilute the stripper and the paint will start to re-gel. On stubborn area I took a BRASS wire brush (Home Depot has a nice one in with their orange stripping gloves) re-applied the stripper and used the brush. As for the canopy hardware I have a blast cabinet and glass beads. Its a lot of work, it took me weeks working a few hour a night and weekend to strip the entire plane. I also use a soda plaster for some areas
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wlannon(at)persona.ca
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| Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:28 pm Post subject: stripping and painting aluminum |
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The Chinese top coat is a lacquer and the prmer is a very good zinc chromate (on the al. alloy) and red oxide (on steel parts).
Any good stripper will remove the top coat and the primer will come off with 3M Scotch Brite (red) and lacquer thinner or good gun wash.
Don't use any sandpaper!. If necessary to remove any corrosion use 3M (Scotch brand) Wet-or Dry paper- NO sandpaper. Most of the parts will be anodized and will not be damaged by judicious use of the red scoth brite but will be with abrasive papers.
To prep for painting use a phosphoric acid etchant like Stits Metal Prep. This removes the oxide coating from bare (or alclad) al. alloy and will clean the anodized surface perfectly.
Treat bare alloy with a chromic acid etch - Alodine 1200 or the comparable Stits product. Do not use on anodized surface except in areas where you have cleaned up corrosion, etc. It has no effect on the anodizing.
The reason for the chromic etch is to prevent the formation of aluminium oxide which begins to form immediately after
cleaning.
The PPG products Keith mentioned may be the same items.
Be very careful to follow the product instructions, particularly with the chromic acid.
Walt
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