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Roger Lee
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.
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 Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:02 pm Post subject: Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator |
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How many of you only have about 13.1V - 13.3V charge output to the battery? (I have a fix if enough people have an issue)
How many have at least 13.8V+?
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Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
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e.brian44(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 4:14 am Post subject: Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator |
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hi
on our stratomaster the voltage readout is 13.8 - 14.2 (occasionally peak but falls back)
i have a crowbar curcuit to monitor the rail voltage so when it reaches 16v it drops a relay that disconnects the supply from the engine to the regulator and the on-board electrics then run on the aircraft batt. in other words high volt protection.
considering the amount of electrical stuff now on-board it really needs protecting as burnt out stuff is v expensive to repair.
i am trying to locate male and female plugs, that will allow me to intercept the regulator wiring at the existing plug and patch all wires across, except the engine power supply (the 2 yellows) to the regulator, which i can then wire via the relay break contacts.
are there any such plugs about?
is there a similar circuit on offer anywhere that can be patched in, save me some work.
cheers
Brian
G-CGEZ
From: Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sat, February 19, 2011 2:02:12 AM
Subject: Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>
How many of you only have about 13.1V - 13.3V charge output to the battery? (I have a fix if enough people have an issue)
How many have at least 13.8V+?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331471#331471
[quote][b]
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Roger Lee
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:30 am Post subject: Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator |
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Hi All,
One of our electrical engineer members came up with this and if he wants to step forward for the credit he can.
Have you a low voltage output around 13.1V - 13.3V from the Rotax Ducati regulator?
Many have for years. Our battery never gets to a full charge as it needs 13.9V - 14.2V. My voltage on my system is only 13.1V - 13.2V normally. When I turn on my landing light my voltage drops to 11.8V on my Dynon at low rpms whether at idle or coming in for landing, plus the light is not near as bright. There is a fix, but you technically need an LOA if you have an SLSA from the aircraft Mfg. Here is a picture below. You use a 1 amp 200V diode which is available at any electronics store. The number for the diode is 1N4001 thru 1N4007. If you only need only a .4V increase then a 1N5817 diode 1 amp 20V. The band on one end will face up. It goes between the Regulator Rectifier "R" terminal slot and the "Charge" terminal slot. There is a small white wire already between these two terminals and this is what you are replacing and then that small wire needs to be clipped in half. This will raise your output charging voltage .8 volts or .4V depending on the diode used. When I tried this mod it went from 13.2V to 14.1V. When I turn on my running lights and all other electrical (other than the landing light) the voltage drops .1V - .2V. When I turn on the landing light it drops to 13.2V, but at least it doesn't drop to 11.7V any more. We all know most battery's require 13.9V - 14.2V to charge fully and that's one reason for the right type of charger in the hanger. When you have a battery that only gets charged 60% - 70% (13.2V) things don't work as well. Lately my electric flaps were running slow and once in a while blinked for a few seconds. Now they are quick and crisp again. My plane starts up much faster and easier with a fully charged battery. You have 2 options for a connection. Solder the diode in place or use something like a Molex connector crimped on each end of the diode. Use a wire tie to secure this diode or jumper wire in place to help protect against any vibration.
What is the down side? If the diode were to fail some day then your voltage would climb to 15 volts and be in an over charge state at the battery. The quick and easy fix is to manage voltage until you land by pulling the generator breaker and let the battery discharge for a while then turn it back on for a while until you land. If it were me I would use the crimp method on the diode and make up a 2.5" plain wire jumper with Molex connector on each end. In an emergency, all you would have to do is unplug the diode and plug the jumper wire in place then you are right back to a stock set up. Keep the little jumper in your tool kit. I'll try to take a picture of the jumper wire and post it here this weekend.
If you install this mod make sure you double check the charge voltage on the battery which hopefully matches what your cockpit instrument reads.
p.s.
Since electrical engineering is not my expertise by any stretch of the imagination I was just informed that if the diode were to fail the system would go back to stock on its own through the diode wire.
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| Description: |
| Voltage increase diode pic |
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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056 |
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