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sean(at)stephensville.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:56 am Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place.
The rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread
apart the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to
do the job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing
it twice.
-Sean #40303
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009 Posts: 364
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:06 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Floor Pans |
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Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
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_________________ Wayne G. |
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bgill1(at)charter.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:38 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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As I recall a thin putty knife worked well for me. Helps act as a ramp to
slide over the rivets. Nice tight fit once in place..
Byron
N253RV Phase 1
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Ron B.
Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 103 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Floor Pans |
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There were a few places where the parts were a tight fit. I don't recall that one being impossible. Just keep trying from different sides and go easy. I'm sure you'll get it in.
Ron
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sean(at)stephensville.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 12:43 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime , etc.
then put them in and say its good.
Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place.
-Sean
On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
Quote: |
Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad. Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below. Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill and rivet.
--------
Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
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sean(at)stephensville.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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Ok, figured out why I was having a hard time. This was another Doh!
moment for me. The shop heads were on the wrong side of the seat belt
attach brackets. One I fixed those, which was not fun at all, it went
in a lot easier. Oh well, not my first Doh! moment, but I'm running out
of parts, so maybe my last?
Thanks everyone and go easy on me.
-Sean #40303
On 3/13/11 3:40 PM, Sean Stephens wrote:
Quote: |
Ya, once I get them in there, there's no way I am going to try and get
them out. I think I will final drill, dimple, nutplates, prime ,
etc. then put them in and say its good.
Now just to figure out how to get them in there in the first place.
-Sean
On 3/13/11 3:06 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
>
> Don't bother priming those sides...they will get scratched up bad.
> Mine were a bear to get in and out. Be careful not to bend the
> flanges on the sides when pushing/pulling on them. I used an awl
> through some of the holes to help pull. When clecoing, riveting you
> may notice that they do not line up perfectly with stiffeners below.
> Probably the worst part so far for not aligning close to perfect.
>
> I guess one could install once if you so choose...just match drill
> and rivet.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie, A&P 5/93, PPC 10/08
> Bldr# 40983 SB Started 12/1/09.
> Fuselage Sec 45 Doors/Transparencies- 1228 hrs to date.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333768#333768
>
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Ron B.
Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 103 Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: Rear Floor Pans |
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Sure now that you say that, it reminds me we had one side with the shop heads also. With one side only I think we managed. It sure would have been easier with both sides. Guess we had a DOH moment back then also. Sorry I could not remember to advise you, but you figured it out and I'm sure that's better.
Ron
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john(at)trollingers.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:08 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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I used thin aluminum sheets as guides.. it allowed it to slip right
over the rivets, I then used them again to pull them out. Be very
careful or the floor pan will fold in half (ask me how I know)
John #40923
On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 2:53 PM, Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> wrote:
Quote: |
I cannot figure out how to get the rear floor pans to slide into place. The
rivets for seat belt attach are in the way. The plans say to spread apart
the left and right side well panels, but they don't move enough to do the
job. Any tips on how to get those in there? I'm dreading doing it twice.
-Sean #40303
|
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast. Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 5:45 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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I realized trying to get them in the first time that once in,,,,they would be near impossible to remove after match drilling without damaging them,,, so I just reamed all the holes with them out, de-burred and primed, then shoe horned them in. All the holes lined up perfect for the rivets.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
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dlm34077(at)q.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 6:39 pm Post subject: Rear Floor Pans |
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removing them is possible as the QB kits used to come with them installed with a few blinds.
[quote] ---
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