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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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 Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 7:30 am Post subject: fuel valve bracket & clearance |
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I would first recommend deciding whether you want to stick with the
Vans valve or upgrade to an Andair valve. That will influence where
you ultimately mount the valve. I seem to recall one of the "new"
style Vans valves failing at around 300 hours. Whether you move your
valve at all probably depends on whether you will use heater for rear
seat much or not. Or you could just ignore the issue and see whether
you have any issues in the first year of flying. You will have to go
back in there for first condition inspection anyway.
On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 6:15 AM, rvdave <davidbf(at)centurytel.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have the old style fuel valve bracket that came with my quick build and see that there was a change later on so that the heat ducting can go above the valve and not below. I'm not sure that simply inverting the bracket will allow enough clearance, is someone familiar with the steps needed to modify to allow clearance? Seems the rudder cable uhmw guides are in the way, will also have to re-make fuel lines.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=335256#335256
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:41 am Post subject: fuel valve bracket & clearance |
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I originally had mine (Andair) mounted at the top so I would not need an extension. After I got things plumbed up and rudder cables installed, I had to snake the heat scat to get it to the back. I was not at all happy that the heat duct was right next to the valve and fuel line plumbing, let alone riding next to the rudder cable for potential wear. I ended up moving the valve to the plans position and machining an extension myself. (Andair does offer extensions). I am happy with the results and feel a whole lot better that I am not exposing the valve and fuel lines to the heat carried in the duct. I really like the Andair valve but thinking back I should have probably stuck with the Van's supplied valve for simplicity of installation.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
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robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:29 pm Post subject: fuel valve bracket & clearance |
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David,
I was with you all the way till the simplicity part. I personally feel the Andair fuel valve is worth the effort over the Vans Fuel valve.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net)
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 9:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: fuel valve bracket & clearance
I originally had mine (Andair) mounted at the top so I would not need an extension. After I got things plumbed up and rudder cables installed, I had to snake the heat scat to get it to the back. I was not at all happy that the heat duct was right next to the valve and fuel line plumbing, let alone riding next to the rudder cable for potential wear. I ended up moving the valve to the plans position and machining an extension myself. (Andair does offer extensions). I am happy with the results and feel a whole lot better that I am not exposing the valve and fuel lines to the heat carried in the duct. I really like the Andair valve but thinking back I should have probably stuck with the Van's supplied valve for simplicity of installation.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 2:15 pm Post subject: fuel valve bracket & clearance |
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I also don't think this should be one of those things
that really is all that complicated. I mean, I had
to go through a couple of revisions back in 2005
to get it right, but since then, I've had it all
documented and many people have done just what I did
and had good luck. So today, the Andair valve is
probably more the "standard" than the standard
valve. At least among the people who know the
difference between the valves. I'd really never
consider the Van's valve...with or without the
fancy handle.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 3/28/2011 2:45 PM, Robin Marks wrote:
[quote] David,
I was with you all the way till the simplicity part. I
personally feel the Andair fuel valve is worth the effort over the Vans
Fuel valve.
Robin
*From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of
*davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net <mailto:davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
*Sent:* Monday, March 28, 2011 9:58 AM
*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
*Subject:* Re: fuel valve bracket & clearance
I originally had mine (Andair) mounted at the top so I would not need an
extension. After I got things plumbed up and rudder cables installed, I
had to snake the heat scat to get it to the back. I was not at all
happy that the heat duct was right next to the valve and fuel line
plumbing, let alone riding next to the rudder cable for potential wear.
I ended up moving the valve to the plans position and machining an
extension myself. (Andair does offer extensions). I am happy with the
results and feel a whole lot better that I am not exposing the valve and
fuel lines to the heat carried in the duct. I really like the Andair
valve but thinking back I should have probably stuck with the Van's
supplied valve for simplicity of installation.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
---
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:22 pm Post subject: fuel valve bracket & clearance |
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I guess what I meant by simplicity is that if I had just stuck with the plans fuel valve set-up,,,,it would have been done right the first time. I spent the better part of a full day redoing everything and machining the valve extension. Contrary to what someone else said,,,I had interference with the rudder cable and would have had to make the scat tube oval shaped around the Andair valve and fuel line/fitting,,,,then fasten it to the valve to hold it in place,,,,something I was not willing to do. Another option was to sheath the cable,,,,,but I really wanted to get some distance from the fuel valve and fuel lines so it was worth the effort. The discussion on the Andair vs. Van's fuel valve has been pretty well hashed over many times. The majority of builders have had very good success with Van's valve set up. I even went so far as to assemble the valve with the van's detent kit and liked the way it operated,,,,,you have to lift the selector pointer to change tanks and it locks back down into position similiar to the way the Andair operates. The one thing I did not like about the Andair is that the L/R tank position can be changed without lifting the pointer handle,,,,it is only held in position by an internal valve "click" detent that is easily moved with little effort. Fearing accidentally bumping the valve pointer somewhere in between the L/R position,,,I made mine so that the pointer handle has to be lifted to move from L/R and to the OFF position.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
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