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taildragon(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 3:27 pm Post subject: tunnel heat |
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<?xml:namespace prefix"v" /><?xml:namespace prefix"o" /><![endif]-->
How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are builders mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are accessable but non-interferring in the cabin?
Roger Standley
40291 - panel / fuselage
[quote] ---
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dav1111(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Thu May 11, 2006 3:54 pm Post subject: tunnel heat |
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I mounted mine on the bottom section of the panel left side for pilot and co-pilot and right side for rear passengers.
Russ Daves
[quote] ---
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 12:22 am Post subject: tunnel heat |
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A valve at the intake would be great. I might mount my knobs to the
subpanel and out of sight. In Florida, we rarely need heat, even at
altitute.
Do not archive
On 5/11/06, Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com> wrote:
[quote]
How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are builders
mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are accessable but
non-interferring in the cabin?
Roger Standley
40291 - panel / fuselage
---
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 3:29 am Post subject: tunnel heat |
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I'd be careful with that. If you put a valve upstream of the air box,
then the airflow within the SCAT tube and heater vent area will
be EXTREMELY slow, and could cause the air to get super hot,
leading to a worse problem than if there was freeflowing air.
It would have a long time to sit and head up in the shroud
around the exhaust. If you really think you don't need
any heat, it might be more practical to just remove the heat
system completely. IMHO, it would just be better to come up
with one of the fixes though that have seemed to work for
people. The blast tube I put on mine seems to make
a difference. Perhaps adding some fins to the air valve
boxes would make the blast tube even more efficient. So far
though, after 60+ hours, I am thinking I'm happy with the
way it is.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rob Kermanj wrote:
[quote]
A valve at the intake would be great. I might mount my knobs to the
subpanel and out of sight. In Florida, we rarely need heat, even at
altitute.
Do not archive
On 5/11/06, Roger Standley <taildragon(at)msn.com> wrote:
>
>
> How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are builders
> mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are accessable but
> non-interferring in the cabin?
>
> Roger Standley
> 40291 - panel / fuselage
>
> ---
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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 9:42 am Post subject: tunnel heat |
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I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes in
the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
easily). Any flaws with the plan?
BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for hot
rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
seats.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 10:13 am Post subject: tunnel heat |
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Seat Pictures?
| Quote: |
I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes
in
the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
easily). Any flaws with the plan?
BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for
hot
rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
seats.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
|
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 12:21 pm Post subject: tunnel heat |
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I had a Drgonfly with the same problem as your Q2. I tried your
solution on my Dragonfly without success. I think that it is a crab
shoot when it comes to these modifications. I ended up living with
the heat.
Do not archive.
On 5/12/06, Marcus Cooper <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have another plan for removing tunnel heat I'd like to bounce off the
list. My Q2 had issues in that the fuselage was sealed so tight you
wouldn't get cooling air into the cabin without drilling some exit holes in
the back. Seems to me that if I put some tubing at the back end of the
tunnel venting the tunnel out the bottom then the airflow in through the
cooling vents would find it's way into the gap at the front/top of the
tunnel and force cooling air into the tunnel. I figured tubes angled down
and aft would be better rather than just cutting holes as that way fluids
from weather or washing wouldn't find their way into the airplane (as
easily). Any flaws with the plan?
BTW, I just got my seats back from a local guy that does upholstery for hot
rods. They came out fantastic for a total of $700 (non-leather) for all 4
seats.
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
|
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Tdawson(at)avidyne.com
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| Posted: Fri May 12, 2006 1:26 pm Post subject: tunnel heat |
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I've heard of shooting "fish in a barrel", but never shooting crabs . .
. : )
TDT
do not archive
--
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