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Re Hydraulic :Brakes

 
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CrownLJ(at)verizon.net
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 5:39 pm    Post subject: Re Hydraulic :Brakes Reply with quote

RE: RE: Hydraulic brakesBradley,

With regards to the calipers and pads; I polished the slides by =
mounting in a drill press and sanding and emery paper. I also slightly =
increased the diameter of the holes that the sliders slide through. =
Initially by sanding, then more aggressively with a reamer. I also =
found that it is important to tighten the bolts that connect the =
stationary brake shoe to the caliper or puck house to be equal in =
torque. I found that this torque relative to each other will "allow" =
the shoes to move freer, or bind up. There is no magic number, just =
tighten them up equally, and try it. I found that after a few =
adjustments of trail and error, it works great. I did the adjusting =
with no brake pressure, just moving the pad in and out by hand. I =
adjusted it this way first and then once it was all assembled, I fine =
tuned it.
I found also that my master cylinders were a bear to bleed. I used =
a pressure bleeder from the bottom up, but found that it was best to =
have the pedal disconnected and the master cylinder piston fully =
extended. Despite this, it still took many attempts to get all of the =
air out. Don't get me wrong - there were times when I wanted to change =
brake companies, but reason prevailed, and I endured the testing of my =
patients. Now that the installation problems are sorted out, I have =
enjoyed these brakes since Nov 02 with no problems.
I hope that this helps.
Larry
Subject: RE: RE: Hydraulic brakes
From: Bradley M Webb (bmwebb(at)cox.net)
Date: Thu May 11 - 5:03 PM



I sure would like to know how you did it. Mine basically suck. The =
design is
flawed, and while I'm no engineer, I can see that it doesn't work as =
good as
it could.

What happens on mine is that the point of "impact" on the brake pad is =
not
inline with the brake pad. This causes the pad plate to flex and twist =
when
the caliper applies pressure. When it flexes, it tries to torque on the
sliders, binding them up instead of sliding. Basically, the sliders are =
too
far away from the center of pressure, introducing a fulcrum, of sorts, =
to
the assembly. Instead of sliding, it binds up and tries to rotate. So my
peddle pressure is not only squeezing the disc, it is having to overcome =
the
friction created from the binding on the sliders.

It sounds like others are having similar problems. I called Matco, and =
they
told me that I needed to ensure I was getting 450psi minimum at the =
caliper.
Agreed, 2.5:1 is the drawing. But he said that you do what you have to, =
to
get 450psi.

He said to port into the bleed location, and then inline between the =
caliper
and the master cylinder. This might show where the problem lies.

Either way, I shouldn't be getting full master cylinder travel when I =
pres
on them. Between the binding and the squeezing, the master cylinder =
should
linearly increase resistance as I push on it, regardless of the caliper
issues, until I can't push it anymore. I'm bottoming out.

Now I could be leaking past the seals internally, and I suspect that. =
But I
sure would like to have a better caliper design.

Bradley

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clint_bazzill(at)hotmail.
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 9:36 pm    Post subject: Re Hydraulic :Brakes Reply with quote

I have the matco brakes on my Model IV-1200. I had a bad problem on not
working properly, the hydraulic plunger that pushes on the brake pad binds.
I rounded out the outsides of the holes so the rod that they slide on onlly
touched in the middle. This way they could tilt and not bind. First 40
hours hell to make work, next 1100 hours fine. Clint
From: "Larry Martin" <CrownLJ(at)verizon.net>
Reply-To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
To: <Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re Hydraulic :Brakes
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 20:38:22 -0500



RE: RE: Hydraulic brakesBradley,

With regards to the calipers and pads; I polished the slides by =
mounting in a drill press and sanding and emery paper. I also slightly =
increased the diameter of the holes that the sliders slide through. =
Initially by sanding, then more aggressively with a reamer. I also =
found that it is important to tighten the bolts that connect the =
stationary brake shoe to the caliper or puck house to be equal in =
torque. I found that this torque relative to each other will "allow" =
the shoes to move freer, or bind up. There is no magic number, just =
tighten them up equally, and try it. I found that after a few =
adjustments of trail and error, it works great. I did the adjusting =
with no brake pressure, just moving the pad in and out by hand. I =
adjusted it this way first and then once it was all assembled, I fine =
tuned it.
I found also that my master cylinders were a bear to bleed. I used =
a pressure bleeder from the bottom up, but found that it was best to =
have the pedal disconnected and the master cylinder piston fully =
extended. Despite this, it still took many attempts to get all of the =
air out. Don't get me wrong - there were times when I wanted to change =
brake companies, but reason prevailed, and I endured the testing of my =
patients. Now that the installation problems are sorted out, I have =
enjoyed these brakes since Nov 02 with no problems.
I hope that this helps.
Larry
Subject: RE: RE: Hydraulic brakes
From: Bradley M Webb (bmwebb(at)cox.net)
Date: Thu May 11 - 5:03 PM



I sure would like to know how you did it. Mine basically suck. The =
design is
flawed, and while I'm no engineer, I can see that it doesn't work as =
good as
it could.

What happens on mine is that the point of "impact" on the brake pad is =
not
inline with the brake pad. This causes the pad plate to flex and twist =
when
the caliper applies pressure. When it flexes, it tries to torque on the
sliders, binding them up instead of sliding. Basically, the sliders are =
too
far away from the center of pressure, introducing a fulcrum, of sorts, =
to
the assembly. Instead of sliding, it binds up and tries to rotate. So my
peddle pressure is not only squeezing the disc, it is having to overcome =
the
friction created from the binding on the sliders.

It sounds like others are having similar problems. I called Matco, and =
they
told me that I needed to ensure I was getting 450psi minimum at the =
caliper.
Agreed, 2.5:1 is the drawing. But he said that you do what you have to, =
to
get 450psi.

He said to port into the bleed location, and then inline between the =
caliper
and the master cylinder. This might show where the problem lies.

Either way, I shouldn't be getting full master cylinder travel when I =
pres
on them. Between the binding and the squeezing, the master cylinder =
should
linearly increase resistance as I push on it, regardless of the caliper
issues, until I can't push it anymore. I'm bottoming out.

Now I could be leaking past the seals internally, and I suspect that. =
But I
sure would like to have a better caliper design.

Bradley

--


- The Matronics Kitfox-List Email Forum -
 

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kitfox-List
Back to top
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