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pdelano(at)telus.net
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 Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 8:43 am Post subject: Priming |
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As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect internal/mating sections of the plane only.
It is becoming apparent that;
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>removing the part sticker from the part and cleaning the residue
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>washing down the part with some kind of solvent
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>scotchbriting the part
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>washing it down again
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>drying it off
<![if !supportLists]>· <![endif]>and finally priming the part
In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would like and expose myself and family to fumes
from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and Glueing are some of my least favourite tasks and
the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody give me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
building process and still have a finished product that one can feel comfortable is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the dream.
Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers so hard to remove?
The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone (at)#$^ something or
other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
Regards,
Perry
[quote][b]
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carlossa52(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 9:11 am Post subject: Priming |
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Perry, I think the fumes can be minimized if you use thinner only for the sticker, then scrub the part and wash with some household detergent.
However, the zinc chromate step is what it is - if you are applying it with aerosol or spray, then it's worse.
I use disposable foam "brushes". But, until the part dries, the fumes / smell will be around.
Alternatives were discussed here over the years, I am sure you can find them in the archives (also the RV archives).
Epoxy-based primers come to mind, but I have no idea if they release fumes or not (I would guess not, as they "dry" by polymerization, not evaporation).
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal
On 10 May 2011 12:40, Perry Delano <pdelano(at)telus.net (pdelano(at)telus.net)> wrote:
[quote]
As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect internal/mating sections of the plane only.
It is becoming apparent that;
· removing the part sticker from the part and cleaning the residue
· washing down the part with some kind of solvent
· scotchbriting the part
· washing it down again
· drying it off
· and finally priming the part
In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would like and expose myself and family to fumes
from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and Glueing are some of my least favourite tasks and
the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody give me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
building process and still have a finished product that one can feel comfortable is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the dream.
Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers so hard to remove?
The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone (at)#$^ something or
other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
Regards,
Perry
[b]
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dougsnash
Joined: 14 Apr 2008
Posts: 281
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| Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 10:23 am Post subject: Priming |
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Perry, you just said the magic word, Canada.
One of the check boxes on the MD-RA pre-closure inspection forms is, "Are all interior surfaces protected from environmental deterioration?" or something to that effect. If you choose not to prime all of interior surfaces of your aircraft then you are going to have to convince your MD-RA inspector that it is not necessary. Yes, you will have to deal with the MD-RA as Transport Canada no longer inspects homebuilts.
Before everyone gets into a debate about the corrosion resistance properties of 6061-T6, please keep in mind this is more of a political issue than a scientific one. While your inspector is the one that looks at your plane, he has to send your paperwork to the regional inspector. The regional inspector is the one that has to make the decision whether to pass your plane based on the field inspectors information. If there is any question about the priming, then the regional inspector might take considerably longer processing your paperwork than if the priming is done.
Is full sheet priming encessary for Zenith kits? I don't know. Is it easier to get your Special Airworthiness Certificate here in Canada if it is primed? Absolutely. But ultimately, if in doubt, talk to your inspector.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 from scratch
NW Ontario, Canada
Do Not Archive
--- On Tue, 5/10/11, Perry Delano <pdelano(at)telus.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
From: Perry Delano <pdelano(at)telus.net>
Subject: Priming
To: zenith701801-list(at)matronics.com
Received: Tuesday, May 10, 2011, 11:40 AM
As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect internal/mating sections of the plane only.
It is becoming apparent that;
· removing the part sticker from the part and cleaning the residue
· washing down the part with some kind of solvent
· scotchbriting the part
· washing it down again
· drying it off
· and finally priming the part
In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would like and expose myself and family to fumes
from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and Glueing are some of my least favourite tasks and
the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody give me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
building process and still have a finished product that one can feel comfortable is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the dream.
Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers so hard to remove?
The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone (at)#$^ something or
other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
Regards,
Perry
|
[quote][b]
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