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John Brunke
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 43
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 4:17 pm Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some good
replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes part of
the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually used
in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put together.
The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie flat
on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a rivet.
I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet. It
was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work well
where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
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James Baldwin
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 23
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 6:32 pm Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Hey John -
When a rivet is driven, it expands to fill the dimension, radially, of
the installed hole. Sometimes this leads to a little expansion of the
native material, but "usually" it is not very much. It "usually" works
to install a similar size rivet to re-rivet the pieces together again,
especially if the original rivet was removed accurately. This is why
edge distance is one of the considerations in rivet pattern layout. My
question is: where do you get the tool you describe? Thanks. JBB
J. Brunke wrote:
Quote: |
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
http://wiki.matronics.com
|
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List |
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John Brunke
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 43
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Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:26 pm Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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JBB,
The Fein web site can be found through a search engine. I checked and the
web site for the multimaster is:
www.fein.de/corp/de/en/multimaster/index.html
Hopefully if I did that right, you can just click on that and it should take
you to it. My wife bought this for me for
Christmas a few years ago. I didn't think I would use it, but it has a fair
amount of versitility. Today when I was
trying to figure out the "drill out" situation, I never thought the Fein
would work as well as it did.
Good luck,
John
---
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midgriff(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 5:22 am Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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The Fein tool sounds, well, fine <grin>... having never seen the procedure you describe, the only concern I would have is how much that cutting head would mark up the aluminum surface you were resting it against. It seems to me it might marr it pretty significantly, but if it doesn't I think you may have found a new trick.
My $0.02 worth....
Jeff
RV-6 project, still doing inventory and setting up shop)
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. [url=http://us.rd.yahoo.com/mail_us/taglines/postman5/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=39666/*http://messenger.yahoo.com]Call regular phones from your PC[/url] and save big.
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John Brunke
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 43
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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 7:37 am Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Jeff,
That's the only drawback I have found so far. If you are not level with the underlying surface you will get some marking. Of course I used a sanding pad that came with the Fein and smoothed it out pretty easily. But I could see it being a problem if you dug in to the surface you are resting on.
John
[quote] ---
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tlaw(at)klondiker.com Guest
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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 7:49 am Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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I tend to agree with Jeff that this tool would sometimes scratch the “Alclad” surface or distort the hole in light gauge aluminum. As most of the rivets in an RV are not universal head type but countersunk, I think “careful” drilling is the way to go.
Respectfully, Tom Law, RV6A, C-GNJI
From: owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv6-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Griffiths
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 6:19 AM
To: rv6-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: drilling out rivets
The Fein tool sounds, well, fine <grin>... having never seen the procedure you describe, the only concern I would have is how much that cutting head would mark up the aluminum surface you were resting it against. It seems to me it might marr it pretty significantly, but if it doesn't I think you may have found a new trick.
My $0.02 worth....
Jeff
RV-6 project, still doing inventory and setting up shop)
New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.
| - The Matronics RV6-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List |
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dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net Guest
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Posted: Wed May 17, 2006 6:48 pm Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head side since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side. For this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them, it's not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't have to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets on an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven out towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head must be removed.
Dave B. -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
J. Brunke wrote:
Quote: | --> RV6-List message posted by: "J. Brunke" <jdoody727(at)comcast.net> (jdoody727(at)comcast.net)
Dear Listers,
I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some good replys.
I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes part of the process.
There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually used in woodworking but I
tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put together. The multi-master is usually used
for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie flat on a surface and make a cut to
material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a rivet. I was able to cut through the
shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work well where the hole was dimpled, but
did well on a flat surface.
My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this procedure? I welcome any comments.
Thanks,
John Brunke
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
http://wiki.matronics.com
|
| - The Matronics RV6-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List |
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sharkey(at)sover.net Guest
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Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 7:01 am Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Structural AD rivets have a small dimple in the factory head for
identification. Use this to center a “size smaller” drill and make a hole
through or nearly through the rivet without hitting the parent metal if at
all possible. This should relieve some of the expansion pressure on the
hole from the set rivet. Next using a “same size” drill remove the head
of the rivet without touching the parent metal if possible. The rivet
stem can then be driven out of the hole with a drift punch. If it’s still
tight drill it out as far as necessary to loosen it, again without
damaging the parent metal. Ironically if a rivet is hard to remove it was
well set and strong, regardless of how ugly it looked. Poorly set rivets
tend to fall out of the hole when the head is removed so you know that you
were right to replace them.
Jim Sharkey
RV6 Tip Up Finishing
Quote: | Most rivets will have to be drilled out from the manufactured head side
since in most cases you won't be able to get to the shop head side. For
this reason you should learn the conventional way of removing them, it's
not difficult, it just takes a little practice and then you won't have
to go looking for the special tool every time you have to drill out a
rivet, which for most of us is/was OFTEN. Also, because most rivets on
an RV are dimpled or countersunk, the shank will have to be driven out
towards the shop head side which means that the manufactured head must
be removed.
Dave B. -6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
J. Brunke wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've been following this list for a long time and know I'll see some
> good replys.
>
> I just started a -7 tail kit. Obviously drilling out rivets becomes
> part of the process.
>
> There is a tool called a "multi-master" made by Fein. It is usually
> used in woodworking but I
> tried using it as a rivet removal tool on a test piece that I put
> together. The multi-master is usually used
> for sanding, but comes with cutting tools. The cutting tool can lie
> flat on a surface and make a cut to
> material sticking up from that flat surface such as a shop head on a
> rivet. I was able to cut through the
> shop head very easily and used a punch to remove the rest of the
> rivet. It was quick and I didn't have to
> worry about enlarging the drilled hole. I don't think it would work
> well where the hole was dimpled, but
> did well on a flat surface.
>
> My question is to ask anyone to tell me what is wrong with using this
> procedure? I welcome any comments.
>
> Thanks,
> John Brunke
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV6-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
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John Brunke
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 43
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Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 7:44 am Post subject: drilling out rivets |
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Thanks for all the replys. I agree that drilling out is probably the best
way to remove
rivets. I was just looking for another way that might be just as easy as
drilling out.
It's all part of the learning experience. And man, I'm learning!
John
---
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