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Tiny solder tab

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stuart(at)stuarthutchison
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:36 am Post subject: Tiny solder tab

G'day Bob,

  

 I have a tiny  soldering job to do because the return wire shown in the photo has separated  from the LED solder tab.  The LED OEM (Luminus) data sheet says that the  used and spare cathode (just visible at the top of the LED base) are  interconnected, but there would be more strain on the main wire to reach  the spare solder tab.  Perhaps a small jumper between the first and  second cathode (and same for the anodes) would be smart too, but I need to  re-attach the wire without damaging the LED.  I have some ideas about how to provide strain  relief and protection for the wires Bob, but what do you think is the best  way to prepare and re-solder to this tiny solder tab, which is only about 1/16 x  1/8" in size?  For reference, the screws are  M3.

  

 Cheers,  Stu

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:10 am Post subject: Tiny solder tab

At 09:32 AM 6/28/2011, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   G'day Bob,

  

 I have a tiny soldering job to do because the return wire shown in the photo has separated from the LED solder tab.  The LED OEM (Luminus) data sheet says that the used and spare cathode (just visible at the top of the LED base) are interconnected, but there would be more strain on the main wire to reach the spare solder tab.  Perhaps a small jumper between the first and second cathode (and same for the anodes) would be smart too, but I need to re-attach the wire without damaging the LED.  I have some ideas about how to provide strain relief and protection for the wires Bob, but what do you think is the best way to prepare and re-solder to this tiny solder tab, which is only about 1/16 x 1/8" in size?  For reference, the screws are M3. 	


   What AWG are these wires? How much current does

   the LED draw?



   The first idea that comes to mind is replacing the

   wires with smaller gage still sufficient to the

   current. I'd bet you can go down to 24 or perhaps

   26AWG. Remove all the existing 'fat' wires and

   bring smaller leads to the outside of the enclosure.

   Use some form of adhesive/sealant to secure the wires

   as they pass through the housing.



   Once in the more robust, outside world, figure out

   some form of connector . . . or perhaps splice to

   more robust leads and secure the joint mechanically

   under a band-clamp.



   You need a soldering iron with a small tip and some

   63/37 solder. I'd clean off the pads with a piece

   of solder-wick, re-tin the pads with small dots of

   solder. Tin the ends of wires to be attached. Then

   'tack' the wires onto the pads.



 

   Bob . . .    [quote][b]

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rv8iator(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 7:46 am Post subject: Tiny solder tab

Stu,



If that's a MCPCB (metal core printed circuit bard, typically aluminum) you will need to preheat the board (and LED) on a hot plate to properly solder to the pad.  Without heating the board you will never get the solder to flow on the pad.  At work we build hundreds of these type of LED assemblies.  We set our hotplate to 150° C and use 63/37 Pb/Sn solder.  Place the MCPCB on the hotplate.  Place a small piece of solder on the pad.  Bring the tinned wire and soldering iron tip in contact with the pad.  The solder should flow freely.  Remove the solder iron and the solder should re-solidify on the pad with the wire embedded. Remove the assembly from the hotplate.

 



Chris Stone

RV-8

OR

On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 7:32 AM, Stuart Hutchison <stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au (stuart(at)stuarthutchison.com.au)> wrote:

 [quote]     G'day Bob,

  

 I have a tiny  soldering job to do because the return wire shown in the photo has separated  from the LED solder tab.  The LED OEM (Luminus) data sheet says that the  used and spare cathode (just visible at the top of the LED base) are  interconnected, but there would be more strain on the main wire to reach  the spare solder tab.  Perhaps a small jumper between the first and  second cathode (and same for the anodes) would be smart too, but I need to  re-attach the wire without damaging the LED.  I have some ideas about how to provide strain  relief and protection for the wires Bob, but what do you think is the best  way to prepare and re-solder to this tiny solder tab, which is only about 1/16 x  1/8" in size?  For reference, the screws are  M3.

  

 Cheers,  Stu

  

  



 [b]

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stuart(at)stuarthutchison
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 4:56 am Post subject: Tiny solder tab

Thanks  Bob and Chris.

  

 Yes, I  reckon the wires are about 16 AWG and the current draw is said to be about  3.15A for the landing light part of the new AveoMaxx 6-in-1.  I would  return it for repair under warranty, but Aveo voided that because I removed  three screws holding the front lens in place.  I was trying to look for an  obvious fault and also see how the 'beam angle adjustment' works, but there is  none.  After exiting the body, the wires are soldered to the control  circuit board, which is embedded in epoxy.  I'll put some thought into  how to heat the board as Chris suggested and give it a go.  Mouser  Electronics sell the LEDS for about $50 each if I screw it  up.

  

 Cheers, Stu



   From:  owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert  L. Nuckolls, III

Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 1:07 AM

To:  aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Tiny  solder tab

 

At 09:32 AM 6/28/2011, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  G'day Bob,

 

I have a tiny soldering job to do because the return    wire shown in the photo has separated from the LED solder tab.  The LED    OEM (Luminus) data sheet says that the used and spare cathode (just visible at    the top of the LED base) are interconnected, but there would be more strain on    the main wire to reach the spare solder tab.  Perhaps a small jumper    between the first and second cathode (and same for the anodes) would be smart    too, but I need to re-attach the wire without damaging the LED.  I have    some ideas about how to provide strain relief and protection for the wires    Bob, but what do you think is the best way to prepare and re-solder to this    tiny solder tab, which is only about 1/16 x 1/8" in size?  For reference,    the screws are M3. 	


  What AWG are these wires? How  much current does

  the LED draw?



  The first idea that  comes to mind is replacing the

  wires with smaller gage still  sufficient to the

  current. I'd bet you can go down to 24 or  perhaps

  26AWG. Remove all the existing 'fat' wires and

  bring  smaller leads to the outside of the enclosure.

  Use some form of  adhesive/sealant to secure the wires

  as they pass through the  housing.



  Once in the more robust, outside world, figure  out

  some form of connector . . . or perhaps splice to

  more  robust leads and secure the joint mechanically

  under a  band-clamp.



  You need a soldering iron with a small tip and  some

  63/37 solder. I'd clean off the pads with a piece

  of  solder-wick, re-tin the pads with small dots of

  solder. Tin the ends  of wires to be attached. Then

  'tack' the wires onto the  pads.



 

  Bob . . .  	  Quote: 	
		  



href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:39 am Post subject: Tiny solder tab

At 07:53 AM 6/29/2011, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   Thanks Bob and Chris.

  

 Yes, I reckon the wires are about 16 AWG and the current draw is said to be about 3.15A for the landing light part of the new AveoMaxx 6-in-1. 	


   Okay, you can drop the wire to 22AWG and make the job

   MUCH easier. To have come from the factory with such

   fat wire is mystifying . . . 



  	  Quote: 	
		    I would return it for repair under warranty, but Aveo voided that because I removed three screws holding the front lens in place.   I was trying to look for an obvious fault and also see how the 'beam angle adjustment' works, but there is none.  After exiting the body, the wires are soldered to the control circuit board, which is embedded in epoxy.  I'll put some thought into how to heat the board as Chris suggested and give it a go.  Mouser Electronics sell the LEDS for about $50 each if I screw it up. 	


   Okay, you've not bounded your risks. $50 + time to

   do the experiment is not the upper limit . . .

   if you 'screw it up' it may be because you don't

   have the tools and techniques which the factory does

   have. An out-of-warranty repair might be cheaper

   than a new LED assy and the risks for lack of

   tools and process go to zero.



   I'd sure talk to the factory first . . . and ask

   them, "why 16AWG lead wires?" in a 5A or less

   circuit.



 

   Bob . . .    [quote][b]

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