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My "fix" for dragging brakes

 
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billz



Joined: 08 Jul 2009
Posts: 26
Location: Clinton, New York

PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:53 am    Post subject: My "fix" for dragging brakes Reply with quote

I've been reading about the various dragging brake issues on the forum, talked with several folks and experienced the problem with a friend's RV-10.

1. I found out, from the folks at Matco, that it is critical for the master cylinder to fully extend when pressure is removed from the brake pedals. The last 1/16th in. of piston extension is needed for fluid to bypass internally allowing the brake pads to retract. It doesn't take much to keep pressure on the brake pads. My friend fixed his with a spring arrangement on the pedals.

2. I also learned that minimizing friction in the brake pedals is important. They should move freely with no binding. All bolt holes should be properly drilled to assure free movement. The bolts should not be overly tightened, to minimize drag.

3. The Van's design uses two short AN3 bolts on each side of the bottom of the pedals. This can result in some minor twisting that can add resistance to the pedal movement. Matco suggested replacing these with one long bolt. (I purchased AN3-60 bolts, $10 each) I also used some aluminum tubing over the bolt to provide a spacer inside the pedal flanges. I found springs at McMaster (part # 9271K542 and 9271K542, 270 deg, left and right hand). These were put over the through bolt and aluminum tube. The springs I settled on (to get enough return force) were larger inside diameter than the aluminum tube so I found some old garden hose to put over the tubing as a spacer.

As you can see from the pictures, the springs provide return force and work nicely to provide positive pressure on the pedal and master cylinders. So far, it seems like a "no drag" configuration. Since I'm not flying, a final report will have to wait for the future. Does all this make sense from what others have learned from experience??


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