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dlm34077(at)q.com
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 Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:29 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves?
[quote][b]
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rv10flyer(at)verizon.net
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:53 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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I used a pressure tank from the mains up. It had about 4-5psi, opened valve let it go and it was so much easier than trying to bleed from the top down, also going from the bottom pushes the air up and out.
Pascal
From: DLM (dlm34077(at)q.com)
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 9:25 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: bleeding brakes
We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves?
[quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:56 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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I'd be interested in the latest too. There's quite a bit in the archives but approaches vary.
Currently, I have several brake system leaks; 1) the Matco parking brake - old design with known problems and 2) several of the master cylinder fittings.
Can anyone advise on the best way to drain the system? = I assume open 1 bleeder at a time and slowly pump brakes on that side, then repeat.
Any advice on sealing the fittings on the master cylinder (and Matco assembly). Teflon tape? Gasket sealer? Some loctite product?
I contacted Matco and they will service the unit. But taking it out probably grounds me for weeks unless I can bypass it. Thinking I just want to torque and seal at this point.
On 8/29/2011 12:25 PM, DLM wrote: [quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves?
[b]
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rene(at)felker.com
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:57 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains…………worked good for me.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DLM
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 10:26 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: bleeding brakes
We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves? | Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
01234567
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simonnelson(at)vodamail.c
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:39 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Put a stiff pipe (cyno it on) on a 60 ml syringe or bigger.
Open the nipple on the caliper and put on the pipe hard on the nipple.
Open the reservoir, cap, for venting.
Pull on the syringe, and empty all the fluid,, do the same for both sides.
To fill with new fluid, full the syringe and close one side caliper nipple and SLOWLY (it will be a hard push) pump UP the fluid to the reservoir through the caliper nipple.
Look at the reservoir as you go along, and the reservoir should fill to about 10 percent. Lock that nipple, then do the other side, until the reservoir fills a bit more, both line are full. Top up the reservoir.
Easy, no air, no pumping, one man operation
Done this quite a few times works well.
Sy
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:39 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Sy, thanks for this. I intend to do exactly this tomorrow.
When you say 'stiff pipe', what exactly are you referring to? I've been using plastic hose which fits tightly but won't take much positive pressure during the fill (I've been using an oil can). Is there something stiffer of a specific diameter that can be forced over the nipple and will hold while filling?
I keep thinking that there much be some kind of 'standard fitting' for the bleed nipple but no one I've asked seems to know.
Bill "leaky" Watson
On 8/29/2011 1:35 PM, simonnelson(at)vodamail.co.za (simonnelson(at)vodamail.co.za) wrote: [quote] Put a stiff pipe (cyno it on) on a 60 ml syringe or bigger.
Open the nipple on the caliper and put on the pipe hard on the nipple.
Open the reservoir, cap, for venting.
Pull on the syringe, and empty all the fluid,, do the same for both sides.
To fill with new fluid, full the syringe and close one side caliper nipple and SLOWLY (it will be a hard push) pump UP the fluid to the reservoir through the caliper nipple.
Look at the reservoir as you go along, and the reservoir should fill to about 10 percent. Lock that nipple, then do the other side, until the reservoir fills a bit more, both line are full. Top up the reservoir.
Easy, no air, no pumping, one man operation
Done this quite a few times works well.
Sy
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you! From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:53:55 -0400
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com> (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes
I'd be interested in the latest too. There's quite a bit in the archives but approaches vary.
Currently, I have several brake system leaks; 1) the Matco parking brake - old design with known problems and 2) several of the master cylinder fittings.
Can anyone advise on the best way to drain the system? = I assume open 1 bleeder at a time and slowly pump brakes on that side, then repeat.
Any advice on sealing the fittings on the master cylinder (and Matco assembly). Teflon tape? Gasket sealer? Some loctite product?
I contacted Matco and they will service the unit. But taking it out probably grounds me for weeks unless I can bypass it. Thinking I just want to torque and seal at this point.
On 8/29/2011 12:25 PM, DLM wrote: | Quote: | <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves?
|
~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axƭr^j۫zZ(Ƕj|n)b'!j'+بry'C 塧{ ,x(ZP!jٮrrj| &j',r5huиm ' ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1 jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{kyʋ .+jY^.+-٢i0fr((nbxm &j',rr&*''k{w/tml=[b]
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rv10flyer(at)verizon.net
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:05 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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I think Harbor Freight sells a bleeder that blows and sucks (aka pushes the fluid up and vacuums when attached to the other side)
From: Bill Watson (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 1:34 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes
Sy, thanks for this. I intend to do exactly this tomorrow.
When you say 'stiff pipe', what exactly are you referring to? I've been using plastic hose which fits tightly but won't take much positive pressure during the fill (I've been using an oil can). Is there something stiffer of a specific diameter that can be forced over the nipple and will hold while filling?
I keep thinking that there much be some kind of 'standard fitting' for the bleed nipple but no one I've asked seems to know.
Bill "leaky" Watson
On 8/29/2011 1:35 PM, simonnelson(at)vodamail.co.za (simonnelson(at)vodamail.co.za) wrote: [quote]Put a stiff pipe (cyno it on) on a 60 ml syringe or bigger.
Open the nipple on the caliper and put on the pipe hard on the nipple.
Open the reservoir, cap, for venting.
Pull on the syringe, and empty all the fluid,, do the same for both sides.
To fill with new fluid, full the syringe and close one side caliper nipple and SLOWLY (it will be a hard push) pump UP the fluid to the reservoir through the caliper nipple.
Look at the reservoir as you go along, and the reservoir should fill to about 10 percent. Lock that nipple, then do the other side, until the reservoir fills a bit more, both line are full. Top up the reservoir.
Easy, no air, no pumping, one man operation
Done this quite a few times works well.
Sy
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you! From: Bill Watson mailto:Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:53:55 -0400
To: mailto:rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes
I'd be interested in the latest too. There's quite a bit in the archives but approaches vary.
Currently, I have several brake system leaks; 1) the Matco parking brake - old design with known problems and 2) several of the master cylinder fittings.
Can anyone advise on the best way to drain the system? = I assume open 1 bleeder at a time and slowly pump brakes on that side, then repeat.
Any advice on sealing the fittings on the master cylinder (and Matco assembly). Teflon tape? Gasket sealer? Some loctite product?
I contacted Matco and they will service the unit. But taking it out probably grounds me for weeks unless I can bypass it. Thinking I just want to torque and seal at this point.
On 8/29/2011 12:25 PM, DLM wrote: | Quote: |
We need to bleed the brakes for right side lines; what methods are in use. Pressure bleed from bleeder valve at mains? Vacuum from the firewall tank? Gravity bleed from mains bleeder valves?
|
~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axƭr^j۫zZ(Ƕj|n)b'!j'+بry'C 塧{ ,x(ZP!jٮrrj| &j',r5huиm ' oj j+E]t.+-08IaT1 jg rz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{kyʋ .+jY^.+-٢i0fr((nbxm &j',rr&*''k{w/tml=
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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Lew Gallagher
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: bleeding brakes |
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Hey Bill,
It may not be worth the trouble, but when we got ready for this, the guys at the hangar had something they had rigged up since they do this a lot. They had filled what looked like a pump garden sprayer with brake fluid, put an in line on/off valve in the hose, and had a fitting like a grease gun on the end of it. So just pump it up, loosen the bleed nipple, pop the grease fitting on, and open the valve until fluid comes out the reservoir. I held the grease fitting on while filling just in case it tried to pop off.
Probably not worth it for one plane, but if you are in a group that could share it, it might be something to consider.
Later, - Lew
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_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed ! |
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:24 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Hmmm
I guess misery loves company. I too have had problems with match products. My park brake leaked like a sieve until returned to matcofor service - they countersunk the fittings for o rings.
Anyway what I used to bleed the brakes was an oil can along with plastic tubing that was just slightly undersized to fit over the bleed nipple. I slit the tubing a quarter inch or so so it would fit. To secure the tubingI used a loop of safety wire over the tubing end so it would tighten on the filling nipple.
Works like a charm. A couple of things I learned the hard way 1) if the oil can is hard to pump then something is wrong - the nipple is not open or perhaps the park brake is set 2) the brakes will not bleed if a brake cylinder is even slightly compressed. In short the oil can should be as easy to pump when bleeding as it is when unattached.
I have had to bleed my brakes several time because of a leak in one of the cylinders. I weeps from the bottom
fitting even when not under pressure. Damn. My next step is to call Matco. Sounds like my problem is one others have had.
Cheers
Les
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:30 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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I think this is what you are talking about....
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/hydraulicBleedertank.php
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 29, 2011, at 5:31 PM, "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall(at)charter.net> wrote:
| Quote: |
Hey Bill,
It may not be worth the trouble, but when we got ready for this, the guys at the hangar had something they had rigged up since they do this a lot. They had filled what looked like a pump garden sprayer with brake fluid, put an in line on/off valve in the hose, and had a fitting like a grease gun on the end of it. So just pump it up, loosen the bleed nipple, pop the grease fitting on, and open the valve until fluid comes out the reservoir. I held the grease fitting on while filling just in case it tried to pop off.
Probably not worth it for one plane, but if you are in a group that could share it, it might be something to consider.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=350950#350950
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Jim Berry
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: bleeding brakes |
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When you say 'stiff pipe', what exactly are you referring to? I've been using plastic hose which fits tightly but won't take much positive pressure during the fill (I've been using an oil can). Is there something stiffer of a specific diameter that can be forced over the nipple and will hold while filling?
I keep thinking that there much be some kind of 'standard fitting' for the bleed nipple but no one I've asked seems to know.
Bill "leaky" Watson
Bill,
The standard fitting you are looking for is ACS p/n 06-01202 at $105. For that much money it would be better to get the Deluxe Bleeder Tank p/n 225DX from ATS for $90. It comes with both universal and Cleveland adapters. Same thing from ACS is $103.
Also, I suggest putting a hose barb in the top of your brake reservoir with a piece of tubing going down to a clean catch basin. Much easier than trying to keep an eye on your reservoir while pumping brake fluid from below. Keep pumping brake fluid until you don't see any more bubbles in your drain hose.
Jim Berry
N15JB
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pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:32 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Aircraft Spruce sells just such a system for $84.50. It is on page 244 of
their 2010-2011 catalog. I have one (sorry Bill, it's in my hangar at Smith
Mountain Lake, but if you want to fly up in the Maule and get it, you can
use it) and it works pretty well.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Raleigh, NC
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:49 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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bill
Safety wire will seal the tube on the nipple.
Cheers
Les
---
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 2:58 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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That's what I decided to use; I have the insecticide sprayer which can be pressurized. I will submerge the out line in the 5606 and "spray" until the attachment line is full and will then fasten onto the bleeder valve. Open the valve and open the pressure "spray" line. Fastening the line to the bleeder valve can be done by carefully heating the end of the tube so that it shrinks onto the bleeder nipple. I plan to have a 1/8" npt male fitting with a barbed end on the other so I can secure an overflow line for the reservoir.
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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And clean out the sprayer after use. 5606 will eat the rubber stuff and you'll likely lose the 5606 and the sprayer too.
Linn
On 8/29/2011 6:55 PM, DLM wrote: [quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
That's what I decided to use; I have the insecticide sprayer which can be pressurized. I will submerge the out line in the 5606 and "spray" until the attachment line is full and will then fasten onto the bleeder valve. Open the valve and open the pressure "spray" line. Fastening the line to the bleeder valve can be done by carefully heating the end of the tube so that it shrinks onto the bleeder nipple. I plan to have a 1/8" npt male fitting with a barbed end on the other so I can secure an overflow line for the reservoir.
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Thanks for all the input! I think I know what I can use to get the job done tomorrow without making too much of a mess. Some fittings are going to get torqued down pretty hard.
[quote] [b]
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simonnelson(at)vodamail.c
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:22 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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I use a clear hydraulic pipe its very stiff. It was an experiment, I took a nipple to the shop to try out.
Also, please put plumbers tape on the nipple tread, to stop the leaking when you pumping.
Sy
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!
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simonnelson(at)vodamail.c
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| Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:54 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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Good luck Bill. Er have fun?Sy
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:54:51 -0400
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
ReplyTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bleeding brakes
Thanks for all the input! I think I know what I can use to get the job done tomorrow without making too much of a mess. Some fittings are going to get torqued down pretty hard.
[quote] [b]
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:19 am Post subject: bleeding brakes |
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This thread had already received a lot of attention, but in case it wasn't mentioned, I also use the bug-sprayer system to pump fluid up from the brake, but I also hook up a tube to the top of the reservoir on the firewall with a Pitot-type fitting and run that into an overflow tank. I then just let the fluid pump through while I wiggle/tap/push the pedals to get air bubbles out. You can see the air bubbles come out of the overflow tube and you can see when they stop coming out. I can then put the overflowed fluid back into my bug sprayer when I'm low. This seems to work extremely well. When I have finished both sides, I usually take a paper towel and stick a corner down into the reservoir to wick a little bit of the fluid out so it doesn't overflow and run down the firewall.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
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