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Emergency Locator Transmitters: non-TSO cheap ones?

 
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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:03 pm    Post subject: Emergency Locator Transmitters: non-TSO cheap ones? Reply with quote

The old 121.5's are indeed still legal, and typically available for ~$100 if you shop around.

I've heard (unverified) rumors that the new 430MHZ units have trouble transmitting through tree canopies. Wouldn't that be expensive irony.

I intend to use the old style in the plane I'm building, & supplement it with an APRS (if you haven't heard of it, just do an internet search).

Charlie

On 11/03/2011 05:28 PM, David Lloyd wrote: [quote] Ralph,
I believe that you can continue to use the older, 121.5Mhz., ELT's. They are cheap, especially via eBay or similar. However, as a negative, they can lead to a longer search period because they only send out an RF signal. On the plus side, many Airlines tune one of their receivers to this freq. and report when a signal is passed over. At least that alerts the emergency agents. The newer ELT's also still pump out 121.5 but, the the 430 freq. is monitored by overhead satellite receivers and the new style ELT put out GPS location. Thus, searches are nearly pin point on the money.
ELT's, autopilots,etc. are like an expensive insurance policy. You hope you never have to use it that way, but, when needed you would pay a 100x more for the saving service they provide. Dave


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tim2542(at)sbcglobal.net
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:36 pm    Post subject: Emergency Locator Transmitters: non-TSO cheap ones? Reply with quote

On 11/3/2011 7:01 PM, Ralph Finch wrote:
Quote:
Got a very prompt reply:

Quote:

"The ELT will retain the last GPS coordinates for one minute when disconnected from the GPS data source before it is activated and for 4 hours after it is activate.
Mike Akatiff"
I installed one of these units and I really only have 1 complaint about it. The serial data, power & ground for the unit comes in thru a cheap plastic Male/Female DIN connector that will not "click" or lock together, it simply falls apart at the slightest pull, almost no resistance at all. I contacted them about this and was told "it's in the install manual, you are to tape it together"! Sure enough its in there and I missed it!
Also, the pins in the same connector are the solder type and very tiny & difficult to solder. Following on a tip I read over at VAF I used female D-sub pins (HD?) crimped with the Daniels crimpers and just slid them onto the pins, then securing with heat shrink. I also used heat shrink over the DIN halves instead of tape, much better but still a flimsy setup to be sure. Bob K would have a few comments if he saw it!
One more tip, you make a LED/Resistor test rig you make to verify the unit is receiving data and the blinks are very short duration, almost too fast to see. Don't give up if you don't see it blink at first, just look more closely. I thought I had a problem, but it turned out to be working, just hard to see.
Tim
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