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pnicholson
Joined: 04 Jun 2011 Posts: 46
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Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:26 pm Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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Hi again,
some weeks ago, I reported engine roughness on deceleration on
final. (Housai 6A). In short, anything over 1000rpm and higher it
runs fairly smooth, the higher the revs the better. But at idle, the
engine is very rough, panel shakes etc.
Since then a bit of exploration.
I confirmed that the primer is off and down.
On run-up rythmic poof of black smoke (assume unburnt fuel on one cylinder)
The oil screen filter was clear of metals (bit of goop), the gas
filter is clear of sediment and water.
We found that number nine cylinder is not firing properly and is just
luke warm after 10 minutes idle. The plugs seem OK though the rear
plug had a bit of carbon between the gap on pluig. We cleaned them
all up and reinserted, same problem.
So, my hangar mate things compression test is next (rings?) Is there
anything else that I should be persuing?
Thanks,
Philip Nicholson
Nanchang - C-FEPN
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mbeach(at)hartwigs.com.au Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:53 pm Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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Hi Phil, check your plug lead, We had a yak over here that had rubbed the
lead and would run rough and miss under certain
Situation. Fitted an aftermarket kit now runs like a dream. When we
inspected the old lead we found arcing in the metal tubes on the bends.
REGARDS
MICHAEL BEACH
SERVICE MANAGER
HARTWIGS
1 TRAVEL STOP WAY
LAVINGTON
NSW 2641
PH 0260496044
FAX 0260496055
MOBILE 0427692366
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pnicholson
Joined: 04 Jun 2011 Posts: 46
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Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:53 pm Post subject: Re: engine roughness part 2 |
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Hi Michael,
thanks for the quick response. But if there are two leads, two mags and two plugs for each cylinder, would it matter if one lead was shorting?
Is there any way to check for lead current? (novice )
Thanks,
Phil
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pnicholson
Joined: 04 Jun 2011 Posts: 46
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Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: engine roughness part 2 |
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One last thing, the engine is more difficult to start than before.... typically takes 3-4 attempts and alot of fuel
Cheers,
Phil
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cjpilot710(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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Philip,
I think you should check that primer again. If it is NOT closing the valve at the bottom, it will pass fuel and give #9 cylinder way to much fuel. I've seen primers do just that. They looked closed and lock but were not. You will get the very indications you are describing.
Also even with bad rings, a cylinder will fire and be almost as warm as the others. Doing a compression test is not hard, but may tell you if #9 cylinder has bad valves or they are badly out of adjustment, or the rings are totally shot.
Jim "Pappy" Goolsby
In a message dated 10/30/2011 7:26:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, pednicholson(at)gmail.com writes:
Quote: | --> Yak-List message posted by: Philip Nicholson <pednicholson(at)gmail.com>
Hi again,
some weeks ago, I reported engine roughness on deceleration on
final. (Housai 6A). In short, anything over 1000rpm and higher it
runs fairly smooth, the higher the revs the better. But at idle, the
engine is very rough, panel shakes etc.
Since then a bit of exploration.
I confirmed that the primer is off and down.
On run-up rythmic poof of black smoke (assume unburnt fuel on one cylinder)
The oil screen filter was clear of metals (bit of goop), the gas
filter is clear of sediment and water.
We found that number nine cylinder is not firing properly and is just
luke warm after 10 minutes idle. The plugs seem OK though the rear
plug had a bit of carbon between the gap on pluig. We cleaned them
all up and reinserted, same problem.
So, my hangar mate things compression test is next (rings?) Is there
anything else that I should be persuing?
Thanks,
Philip Nicholson
Nanchang - ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web Site p;
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[quote][b]
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 3:50 am Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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Michael is right on the money. Very likely a plug lead. Trying to
replace one lead can end up being a real nightmare. If you'd like more
information on the automotive conversion kit which Michael spoke about,
you can read about it here.
http://www.yak-52.com/plug_conversion.htm
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (cell)
Skype: Yakguy1
www.yak-52.com
On 10/30/2011 6:50 PM, Michael Beach wrote:
[quote]
Hi Phil, check your plug lead, We had a yak over here that had rubbed the
lead and would run rough and miss under certain
Situation. Fitted an aftermarket kit now runs like a dream. When we
inspected the old lead we found arcing in the metal tubes on the bends.
REGARDS
MICHAEL BEACH
SERVICE MANAGER
HARTWIGS
1 TRAVEL STOP WAY
LAVINGTON
NSW 2641
PH 0260496044
FAX 0260496055
MOBILE 0427692366
--
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 4:44 am Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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Remove the spark plug lead from the spark plug. Wet your finger and
grab hold of the small spring at the end. Make sure you lick your
finger first.
With your other hand, grab any handy part of bare metal on the airframe.
Stand clear of prop.
Have observer standing by with audio level meter.
When the engine first cranks have the observer record in Db the level of
the scream emitting from test subject.
Note that after engine starts and RPM is increased, screams should vary
in intensity according to engine RPM. The reason for this is due to the
relatively weak spark used for starting compared to the more powerful
spark from the mag while running. Additionally, spark energy tends to
increase with engine RPM, and with careful attention, the it will be
noted that the PITCH of test subjects scream will indeed vary with
engine RPM.
Sorry. Could not resist.
Make sure you switch the spark plugs from this cylinder to another
cylinder just to eliminate any possible chance of bad plugs. There are
indeed spark plug wire testers that will check for breakdown. Most A&P
mechanics keep one in their box. Failing that, try to get your hands on
a Megger and try that. Pappy says check the primer again... which makes
sense. Dennis and others suggest possible spark plugs leads.... also
VERY possible. As to the engine having two spark plugs and wires .....
good point. Until you remember that you don't often run a mag check at
idle.
You have already stated that the engine seems to run OK at higher power
level settings. You could have had one plug wire (or plug) bad at idle
for quite some time and just never knew it because the other one was
working.
Run mag checks using mag switch at various power settings, from idle on
up and note what you see.
If you think your primer is off ... turn it on and see if you notice a
difference. The engine should run rougher at idle with it on, and
should clear up when you turn it off, check this.
Do you have an intake clean kit? The one with hoses that connect the
lower cylinders and then go to a drain to allow oil to drip out when the
engine is just sitting there? If you do, just for the heck of it, check
to make sure it has no leaks, or something is broken.
Of course run a compression check.
Good luck
Mark
--
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 5:00 am Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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My sides are hurting from laughing so hard Mark! Great way to start off
the work week.....with a good hard laugh.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (cell)
Skype: Yakguy1
www.yak-52.com
On 10/31/2011 7:42 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14
64E wrote:
[quote]
Remove the spark plug lead from the spark plug. Wet your finger and
grab hold of the small spring at the end. Make sure you lick your
finger first.
With your other hand, grab any handy part of bare metal on the airframe.
Stand clear of prop.
Have observer standing by with audio level meter.
When the engine first cranks have the observer record in Db the level of
the scream emitting from test subject.
Note that after engine starts and RPM is increased, screams should vary
in intensity according to engine RPM. The reason for this is due to the
relatively weak spark used for starting compared to the more powerful
spark from the mag while running. Additionally, spark energy tends to
increase with engine RPM, and with careful attention, the it will be
noted that the PITCH of test subjects scream will indeed vary with
engine RPM.
Sorry. Could not resist.
Make sure you switch the spark plugs from this cylinder to another
cylinder just to eliminate any possible chance of bad plugs. There are
indeed spark plug wire testers that will check for breakdown. Most A&P
mechanics keep one in their box. Failing that, try to get your hands on
a Megger and try that. Pappy says check the primer again... which makes
sense. Dennis and others suggest possible spark plugs leads.... also
VERY possible. As to the engine having two spark plugs and wires .....
good point. Until you remember that you don't often run a mag check at
idle.
You have already stated that the engine seems to run OK at higher power
level settings. You could have had one plug wire (or plug) bad at idle
for quite some time and just never knew it because the other one was
working.
Run mag checks using mag switch at various power settings, from idle on
up and note what you see.
If you think your primer is off ... turn it on and see if you notice a
difference. The engine should run rougher at idle with it on, and
should clear up when you turn it off, check this.
Do you have an intake clean kit? The one with hoses that connect the
lower cylinders and then go to a drain to allow oil to drip out when the
engine is just sitting there? If you do, just for the heck of it, check
to make sure it has no leaks, or something is broken.
Of course run a compression check.
Good luck
Mark
--
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tigeryak18t
Joined: 26 Sep 2009 Posts: 233 Location: PARIS FRANCE
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Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 5:11 am Post subject: engine roughness part 2 |
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EXCELLENT MarkSorry but you might have heard my laugh from the other side of the ocean!!! Hope it did not wake you up !!!
I know a few people who can play the tester role here.
Have a very good day
Didier
2011/10/31 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
Remove the spark plug lead from the spark plug. Wet your finger and
grab hold of the small spring at the end. Make sure you lick your
finger first.
With your other hand, grab any handy part of bare metal on the airframe.
Stand clear of prop.
Have observer standing by with audio level meter.
When the engine first cranks have the observer record in Db the level of
the scream emitting from test subject.
Note that after engine starts and RPM is increased, screams should vary
in intensity according to engine RPM. The reason for this is due to the
relatively weak spark used for starting compared to the more powerful
spark from the mag while running. Additionally, spark energy tends to
increase with engine RPM, and with careful attention, the it will be
noted that the PITCH of test subjects scream will indeed vary with
engine RPM.
Sorry. Could not resist.
Make sure you switch the spark plugs from this cylinder to another
cylinder just to eliminate any possible chance of bad plugs. There are
indeed spark plug wire testers that will check for breakdown. Most A&P
mechanics keep one in their box. Failing that, try to get your hands on
a Megger and try that. Pappy says check the primer again... which makes
sense. Dennis and others suggest possible spark plugs leads.... also
VERY possible. As to the engine having two spark plugs and wires .....
good point. Until you remember that you don't often run a mag check at
idle.
You have already stated that the engine seems to run OK at higher power
level settings. You could have had one plug wire (or plug) bad at idle
for quite some time and just never knew it because the other one was
working.
Run mag checks using mag switch at various power settings, from idle on
up and note what you see.
If you think your primer is off ... turn it on and see if you notice a
difference. The engine should run rougher at idle with it on, and
should clear up when you turn it off, check this.
Do you have an intake clean kit? The one with hoses that connect the
lower cylinders and then go to a drain to allow oil to drip out when the
engine is just sitting there? If you do, just for the heck of it, check
to make sure it has no leaks, or something is broken.
Of course run a compression check.
Good luck
Mark
--
| - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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_________________ Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing |
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pnicholson
Joined: 04 Jun 2011 Posts: 46
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Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 5:50 am Post subject: engine roughness part 2 (fixed) |
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So....
messed with manual primer, very little draw/resistance. In the process though heard gas dripping on the hangar floor. Upon investigation, it was dripping out of an intake drain coupling. The coupling, while appearing seated, had backed off completely. I tightened it up and replaced the seals in the primer (thanks NAPA )
Conducted a run up last night and the engine runs well again.
Only drag is I'll never know if it was the leaking intake drain or the primer (probably primer or both)
Thanks very much to all those who chipped in with their helpful advice and humour.
Phil
C-FEPN
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