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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
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 Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:18 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
I've broken the tap.
I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
wheel would attach.
Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
tap.
I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
end up having to use a larger bolt.
One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
partially-plugged hole.
On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
extracting the broken tap?
Any suggestions?...anyone?
Fred
A194
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europa471
Joined: 08 Apr 2009
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:52 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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Fred
Your not the first and won´t be the last.
If there is enough of the tap protruding fron the swing arm you can
maybe cut a screwdriver slot using a 1¨ cutting wheel with a Dremel or
similar tool.
Sometimes you can tap it out, ( no pun intended) using a punch against
the flutes, enough to get a grip with something more substantial.
Good Luck
Lance Sandford in Oz
| Quote: |
Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum,
I've broken the tap.
I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish,
but it was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing
arm to which brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main
wheel would attach.
Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a
tap.
I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the
broken tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd
end up having to use a larger bolt.
One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap
which is proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the
bracket, and drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing
partially-plugged hole.
On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for
extracting the broken tap?
Any suggestions?...anyone?
Fred
A194
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craigb(at)onthenet.com.au
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:15 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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One method I have used successfully is to use a very sharp punch (the kind
of thing you use to put dents in metal before you drill a hole) and hammer
and "unscrew" the tap by tapping the punch with a hammer in one of the
flutes in the side of the tap
--
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 797
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: broken tap |
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Hi Fred
A few ideas:
**EDM Do a Google search on EDM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_discharge_machining
You would have to bring the piece to someone with a large enough machine to accomodate the part
**You can go after the part with a hole saw (center hollow) and take out a plug of metal including the broken tap, but only if you promise not to ever break another tap  you could ream the hole, then put in a precise plug (with a tapped hole in it) and "get it stuck" with 638 Locktight, that is if it is in an area you are OK with making a larger hole in. Warm the holy part (not more than spit sizzle) and cool the plug till the fit is a few thousands between, apply 638 and you will have one stuck plug! When it gets stuck half way, you will have to hole saw out the plug for the first hole saw hole!
**I am not sure where the hole is, but did you ever see Pauls Swiss cheese swing arm? Perhaps you can make yours into a piece of Swiss cheese with a hole where the broken tap is?
**I remember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they have prongs to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster, MSC and do a Google search for broken tap removers. Search Google for procedure for removing broken taps in aluminium. Now you will probably be breaking your promise, but on purpose break off another tap like you already did in a sample piece and try removing or plugging first. As far as removing stuck stuff, like Craig mentioned you can "beat it" if that doesn't work, "beat" it and "heat" it and then "beat" it. Watch out heating, i don't know what type of aluminium it is. I think if you stay under 300F it's probably OK but first try ~ spit sizzle temp (~212F). Of course you probably have a beautiful paint job on it! If thats the case, go under paint get hurt temp.
**Bring the piece to a machine shop and I think a nice milling machine and a nice carbide cutter may get the job done?
**For the future, unless it is a fitting that needs max. strength, drill hole over-sized for a 60% fit instead of 75%, I like Tap Magic for aluminium and use a very sharp tap, I like gun taps (no 1/2 turn in and 1/4 out needed), you can still get bottoming taps.
Ron Parigoris
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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
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| Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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On Nov 18, 2011, at 7:45 PM, rparigoris wrote:
| Quote: |
**I remember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they
have prongs to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster,
|
Ron...excellent suggestion...I find that "4 finger" extractors
exist...and hopefully, I can find one locally which I can borrow!
Thanks much...Fred
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 1:41 am Post subject: broken tap |
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Fred
you could try pushing four bits of locking wire down the flutes,twist them together and trying to work it out. Best approach at that stage is twisting and reversing a bit at a time. You will need to break off the bits of swarf from the last bit of cutting before the tap broke. Warming the aluminum might help, it will expand more than the steel tap. Good luck!
Graham
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, 19 November, 2011 4:20:58
Subject: Re: Re: broken tap
--> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com (fklein(at)orcasonline.com)>
On Nov 18, 2011, at 7:45 PM, rparigoris wrote:
| Quote: |
**I remember seeing tap removers for two and three flute taps, they have prongs to fit down the flutes. Perhaps have a look in McMaster,
|
Ron...excellent suggestion...I find that "4 finger" extractors exist...and hopefully, I can find one locally which I * AeroElectric [url=http://www.aeroe The Builder\'s Bookstore http://www.matronics.com/contribution[/url]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Li> http://forum nbsp; ronics.com/contribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib===============
[quote][b]
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hagargs(at)earthlink.net
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:13 am Post subject: broken tap |
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Depending on how far you are in get a punch and a big hammer and punch it through all the way from the best side. Then drill the hole for a heli-coil and go ahead and put the screw in. By the way you should be using coarse threads for soft material like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
Steve Hagar
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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 2:03 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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On Nov 19, 2011, at 5:10 AM, hagargs wrote:
| Quote: | By the way you should be using coarse threads for soft material
like aluminum. Use 10-24 and lubricant when tapping.
|
Good point Steve...it hadn't occurred to me to use coarse threads.
I'll be needing to safety-wire the bolts, so I'd ordered (and have in
hand) AN3H-3 bolts...looking again in the Acft Spr cat., I only find
10-24 threads in some cap screws w/ slots for single blade screwdrivers.
Guess I'll settle for what I have...and if the threads strip, upsize
to 1/4 dia. bolts...
Fred
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asarangan(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:21 pm Post subject: broken tap |
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Mcmaster has a number of tools for removing broken taps. I do remember
using one of the extractors. You need to buy the right size for it to
work correctly. Search under tap remover at mcmaster.com
On Fri, Nov 18, 2011 at 9:14 PM, Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Well...I feel like I just REALLY stepped in it.
While carefully, slowly, tapping 10-32 threads in 1/2" thick aluminum, I've
broken the tap.
I needn't go into detail as to what I was attempting to accomplish, but it
was in conjunction with providing bolts to the mono LG swing arm to which
brackets supporting a portion of a fairing for the main wheel would attach.
Not sure how to proceed, though I suspect I'm not the first to break a tap.
I'm not optimistic of being able to drill out the tool steel of the broken
tap, and even if that could be accomplished, my hunch is I'd end up having
to use a larger bolt.
One possibility would be to grind the portion of the embedded tap which is
proud of the surface of the aluminum, alter the bends in the bracket, and
drill a new hole (say) 2 diameters away from the existing partially-plugged
hole.
On the other hand, perhaps there is a well-recognized method for extracting
the broken tap?
Any suggestions?...anyone?
Fred
A194
|
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