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philperry9
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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 Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:40 pm Post subject: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead.
- Has anyone done this successfully?
- Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
- I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Thanks,
Phil
[quote][b]
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:10 pm Post subject: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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Just ensure that the entire circumference of the pin (no part of the bevel) is in the most restrictive hole. You may have to lengthen the pins
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Moving Door Pin Holes
Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead. - Has anyone done this successfully?
- Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
- I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Thanks,
Phil
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[quote][b]
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philperry9
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381
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| Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:23 pm Post subject: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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I should have added. I have plenty of pin extension to pull it off.
Phil
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 9:07 PM, DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com (dlm34077(at)q.com)> wrote:
[quote]
Just ensure that the entire circumference of the pin (no part of the bevel) is in the most restrictive hole. You may have to lengthen the pins
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 7:38 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Moving Door Pin Holes
Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16" hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness as bulkhead. - Has anyone done this successfully?
- Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
- I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Thanks,
Phil
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[b]
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dave.saylor.aircrafters(a
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| Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:41 pm Post subject: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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Phil,
If I understand your question, you're talking about the holes in the
fuselage, right?
If so you could substitute the plastic guide blocks for a set of our
aluminum guide blocks and just mount the blocks in the desired
position.
I'd highly recommend changing out the plastic blocks for any of the
metal guides that are available. Ours are pretty inexpensive and are
dimensionally the same as the plastic blocks.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 6:37 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com> wrote:
| Quote: | Has anyone had success moving their door pin holes?
I drilled one of mine earlier and after all was said and done, the aft hole
for the door shifted inboard about 1/16". I'd really like the door to sit
as close to flush as possible so I don't make any additional work for
myself. As it stands right now, I'd have to add quite a bit of filler to
build-up the door and that would be enough to cover the tops of the screws
holding the plastic pin guides in the door.
My thought is to go ahead and oval the hole in the bulk head enough to bring
the door flush, then rivet a doubler plate with the properly sized 7/16"
hole on the backside of the oval. Of course it would be the same thickness
as bulkhead.
Has anyone done this successfully?
Are there any other techniques out there that I haven't thought of?
I'm assuming the door pin holes must be a tight fit (minimal slop) and that
slightly enlarging the hole (without the doubler idea) is a bad idea?
Thanks,
Phil
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hotwheels
Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 240
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| Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:37 am Post subject: Re: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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I did exactly as you describe... Ovaled out the holes a bit and then added an .063 doubler to adjust the fit. I should add that I used aluminum pin guides instead of the plastic factory standard ones.
Adjustable fit ended up being important as the fit kept changing due to door seals, addition of safety latch, edge changes, etc. Just make sure that the pins go all the way through the doublers.
I'm using McMaster-Carr seals and the door close pretty tight when the seals are new. After a few days it gets a lot easier.
Regards,
Jay
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johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 6:46 am Post subject: Re: Moving Door Pin Holes |
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Phil,
I did exactly what Dave Saylor suggested.
John
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