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Key West Regulator

 
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DAquaNut(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:35 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Group:

Any one have a 447 with no battery and using the Key West regulator? If so I need help. I have removed the engine from my plane and forgot where the wires went. I think the brown wire goes from the engine down to the negative post on the Key West regulator. I cannot find any info on the computer. Seems Key West does not have a web page. I want to make sure I have it right. I definitely want to be sure I can kill the engine!

 
  Ed Diebel ( FF 62 )

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George Alexander



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 245
Location: SW Florida

PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
Group:

Any one have a 447 with no battery and using the Key West regulator? If so I need help. I have removed the engine from my plane and forgot where the wires went. I think the brown wire goes from the engine down to the negative post on the Key West regulator. I cannot find any info on the computer. Seems Key West does not have a web page. I want to make sure I have it right. I definitely want to be sure I can kill the engine!

ďż˝
ďż˝ Ed Diebel ( FF 62 )



Ed:
The brown should go to ground. The yellow and the yellow/black should go to the input (A/C) to the Key West. The output (DC) of the Key West would tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V DC. The brown (ground) going to the negative side of the output of the KW may have been someone's way of getting the engine ground to whatever is being fed by the KW.

For further confusion go to Google and put in "Rotax Wiring Diagram". It'll make your hair hurt.

Your results may vary.


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George Alexander
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:54 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

George,   I was the one who wired my firefly originally and have 170 hours on it. Do I need to run
  the brown wire from the engine to the airframe? That is the only one in question. It seems
  Crazy at this point, but I may not have had it right ,all along.

  Ed Diebel (FF 62)



In a message dated 1/22/2012 4:13:46 P.M. Central Standard Time, gtalexander(at)att.net writes:
Quote:

Ed:
The brown should go to ground. The yellow and the yellow/black should go to the input (A/C) to the Key West. The output (DC) of the Key West would tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V DC. The brown (ground) going to the negative side of the output of the KW may have been someone's way of getting the engine ground to whatever is being fed by the KW.

For further confusion go to Google and put in "Rotax Wiring Diagram". It'll make your hair hurt.

Your results may vary.

--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://www.oh2fly.net



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:57 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan do not recommend the Key West regulator..Herb


At 03:32 PM 1/22/2012, you wrote:
[quote]

Group:

Any one have a 447 with no battery and using the Key West regulator? If so I need help. I have removed the engine from my plane and forgot where the wires went. I think the brown wire goes from the engine down to the negative post on the Key West regulator. I cannot find any info on the computer. Seems Key West does not have a web page. I want to make sure I have it right. I definitely want to be sure I can kill the engine!


Ed Diebel ( FF 62 )

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ulflyer(at)verizon.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

At 04:53 PM 1/22/2012, you wrote:
Quote:
One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan do
not recommend the Key West regulator..Herb

Wow, that's new to me but may be true. Someone smart one to give

them a call and see if this is true and why they may not like the Key
West regular. I've been running one for years, although I do run a battery.
jerryb


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George Alexander



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 245
Location: SW Florida

PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:38 am    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Ed:
I’m not an expert, but I believe that it should be to the airframe. Every drawing that I have seen shows a common ground (airframe?) throughout the installation.
A couple of “However”s though….
    Many installations put a separate grounding strap from the engine to the airframe (a braided strap) and then ground, at a convienant place, the devices fed by the system.

    If the loads off the KW are not too demanding and depending on how they are wired, the brown to the Neg (-) on the KW would be “ok”, not ideal, but “ok”.


As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid for it!" (Who by the way, uses a KW and an EIS.)
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
George, ďż˝ I was the one who wired my firefly originally and have 170 hours on it. Do I need to run
ďż˝ the brown wire from the engine to the airframe? That is the only one in question. It seems
ďż˝ Crazy at this point, but I may not have had it right ,all along.

ďż˝ Ed Diebel (FF 62)



In a message dated 1/22/2012 4:13:46 P.M. Central Standard Time, gtalexander(at)att.net writes:
Quote:

Ed:
The brown should go to ground. The yellow and the yellow/black should go to the input (A/C) to the Key West. The output (DC) of the Key West would tie into whatever you have that requires the 12V DC. The brown (ground) going to the negative side of the output of the KW may have been someone's way of getting the engine ground to whatever is being fed by the KW.

For further confusion go to Google and put in "Rotax Wiring Diagram". It'll make your hair hurt.

Your results may vary.



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Richard Pike



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:19 am    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote:
One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan do not recommend the Key West regulator..Herb
<snip>



I'm not going out to the hangar and look because it's pouring down rain, but I think the Kuntzleman Hot Box comes with a Key West attached. And it works fine with our EIS. However we do have a battery in the system.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:41 am    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that
if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the
alternator leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting
the tach impulse multiplier on my unit when I called several years
ago.. ? And likely she asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb

At 08:19 AM 1/23/2012, you wrote:
Quote:

herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote:
> One thing I seem to recall....is that the EIS folks in Michigan
do not recommend the Key West regulator..Herb
>
>
>
I'm not going out to the hangar and look because it's pouring down
rain, but I think the Kuntzleman Hot Box comes with a Key West
attached. And it works fine with our EIS. However we do have a
battery in the system.

--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of
things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1


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Dana



Joined: 13 Dec 2007
Posts: 1047
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:35 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

At 09:39 AM 1/23/2012, Herb Gayheart wrote:

Quote:
Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the alternator leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting the tach impulse multiplier on my unit when I called several years ago.. ? And likely she asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb

I had problems with the tach (a basic lighting coil powered tach) as well with the KW regulator on my Cuyuna. Seems if there is little or no load on the KW, the voltage is also low so the tach reads low; it needs a certain amount of load before the voltage stabilizes. I solved the problem by putting a big power resistor with heat sink across the output; this drew enough power for the voltage to stabilize.

If you had nav lights (I don't) on all the time that would probably be sufficient.

-Dana
--
The only problem with trouble-shooting is that sometimes trouble shoots back.
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:59 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Works on the cheaper rotax regulators also... I think I used a smaller cap however...12k micro farads? 25 volts...something in that neighborhood..? Herb


At 08:42 PM 1/23/2012, you wrote:
[quote]Another solution is to put a 50 volt 25,000 uf capacitor in the positive line coming from the regulator. It does two things, it creates a load that stabilizes the voltage and cleans up the "dirt" from creating DC voltage from AC. I use one with the KW on my 582. Should you go this route, be very careful should you need to disconnect it from the system. I had charged mine up while doing system checkout and decided to move it to a different location three months later. Good thing the screwdriver handle was insulated it threw a big spark when I accidentally grounded the screwdriver shaft.

Rick Girard

On Mon, Jan 23, 2012 at 4:27 PM, Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net (d-m-hague(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
At 09:39 AM 1/23/2012, Herb Gayheart wrote:

Quote:
Just called Sandy at Grand Rapids....Not a big deal...she says that if one uses a Key West, one cannot get a tach signal from the alternator leads...Thats all... I think I was having problems setting the tach impulse multiplier on my unit when I called several years ago.. ? And likely she asked if I had a Key West Regulator... Herb

I had problems with the tach (a basic lighting coil powered tach) as well with the KW regulator on my Cuyuna. Seems if there is little or no load on the KW, the voltage is also low so the tach reads low; it needs a certain amount of load before the voltage stabilizes. I solved the problem by putting a big power resistor with heat sink across the output; this drew enough power for the voltage to stabilize.

If you had nav lights (I don't) on all the time that would probably be sufficient.

-Dana
--
The only problem with trouble-shooting is that sometimes trouble shoots back.

Quote:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 7:47 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

George,

  I am going to connect the brown wire to the engine, You think that is right and so do I. If anyone thinks that is incorrect please speak up!

By the way out of all the posts directed to my Key West Regulator post, Yours was the ONLY one that addressed my problem in regards to the brown wire and I thank you!!

  Ed Diebel ( FF 62)

In a message dated 1/23/2012 7:42:30 A.M. Central Standard Time, gtalexander(at)att.net writes:
Quote:

Ed:
I’m not an expert, but I believe that it should be to the airframe. Every drawing that I have seen shows a common ground (airframe?) throughout the installation.
A couple of “However”s though….
Many installations put a separate grounding strap from the engine to the airframe (a braided strap) and then ground, at a convienant place, the devices fed by the system.

If the loads off the KW are not too demanding and depending on how they are wired, the brown to the Neg (-) on the KW would be “ok”, not ideal, but “ok”.

As Beauford would say.... "Worth what you paid for it!" (Who by the way, uses a KW and an EIS.)


[quote][b]


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Joined: 02 Mar 2007
Posts: 116
Location: Pueo Field, Kula, Maui

PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:19 am    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

23jan12

Ed,

On my thundering 447 the brown wire is the ground for the kill circuit for the Ducatti ignition... The kill loop runs from the Ducatii, by way of the Black/yellow wire to the kill switch and by the brown wire to ground. I ground the brown wire to the engine. And I installed a ground strap between the engine and the cage.

My Key West Reg. is powered by the two light loop wires (Yellow and Yellow/black) from the alternator, to the AC inputs. I run the DC neg. to the cage.

Good luck...

Aloha,


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 1:56 am    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Ed,

I hit the SUBMIT button too quick...

You said "I think the brown wire goes from the engine down to the negative post on the Key West regulator."

I don't think so. I believe the brown wire that is the right length be attached to the case of your engine, is the end point of the kill circuit for the ignition and should run from the case back to the kill switch.

The brown wire has no business anywhere near you Key West Regulator.

I have attached a .pdf file that is a wiring diagram of my engine...

Aloha,


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Engine Electrics 2.pdf
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Download
 Filename:  Engine Electrics 2.pdf
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rickofudall



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Henry, Ed, Ground is ground is ground, to paraphrase Gertrude Stein. Grounding the brown wire to the regulator is nothing special as long as the ground continues to the fuselage weldment. There is no special ground for the ignition modules.
On Tue, Jan 24, 2012 at 3:56 AM, henry.voris <henry_voris(at)yahoo.com (henry_voris(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "henry.voris" <henry_voris(at)yahoo.com (henry_voris(at)yahoo.com)>


Ed,

I hit the SUBMIT button too quick...

You said "I think the brown wire goes from the engine down to the negative post on the Key West regulator."

I don't think so. I believe the brown wire that is the right length be attached to the case of your engine, is the end point of the kill circuit for the ignition and should run from the case back to the kill switch.

The brown wire has no business anywhere near you Key West Regulator.

I have attached a .pdf  file that is a wiring diagram of my engine...

Aloha,

--------
Henry
Firefly Five-Charlie-Bravo

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Henry,

  I am planning to attach one end of the brown wire to the engine and the other end to a connector that allows the same brown wire to continue and attach to a screw on the airframe which seems to me like it will work the same as a ground strap. Before I had the brown wire running from the engine To the neg. terminal on the K W regulator and some how it worked. Thanks for the response.

  Ed Diebel ( FF 62 )

In a message dated 1/24/2012 3:21:57 A.M. Central Standard Time, henry_voris(at)yahoo.com writes:
Quote:

Ed,

On my thundering 447 the brown wire is the ground for the kill circuit for the Ducatti ignition... The kill loop runs from the Ducatii, by way of the Black/yellow wire to the kill switch and by the brown wire to ground. I ground the brown wire to the engine. And I installed a ground strap between the engine and the cage.

My Key West Reg. is powered by the two light loop wires (Yellow and Yellow/black) from the alternator, to the AC inputs. I run the DC neg. to the cage.

Good luck...

Aloha,

--------
Henry
Firefly Five-Charlie-Bravo


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Joined: 02 Mar 2007
Posts: 116
Location: Pueo Field, Kula, Maui

PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Ed,

You said... " I am planning to attach one end of the brown wire to the engine and the other end to a connector that allows the same brown wire to continue and attach to a screw on the airframe which seems to me like it will work the same as a ground strap." Yup, sounds like that is a dandy groundstrap, it ties the engine to the airframe just fine... And as our pal Rick so rightly pointed out that "a ground is a ground" and connecting the brown wire to the NEG DC terminal of your regulator would do the same (as long as the NEG DC circuit of the regulator grounds to the airframe somewhere...).

My brown wire is not a groundstrap... My brown wire carries current from the killswitch to the point where it grounds to the case of the engine. My brown wire connects to the case at the right hand bolt that attaches the coil to the case. If your brown wire connects to the case at that same point... it might be a good idea to check out your killswitch circuit. Make sure your wires aren't crossed. Killswitch is a good thing to have... flight critical.

Good Luck,


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GeoB



Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:47 am    Post subject: Key West Regulator Reply with quote

Quote:
Another solution is to put a 50 volt 25,000 uf capacitor
<snip>

Quote:
Good thing the screwdriver handle was insulated it threw a big spark when
I accidentally grounded the screwdriver shaft.


You could install a high-value resistor across the cap leads. It will bleed
off the charge but not change the function.

GeoB


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