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Larger D-Sub pins

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stuart(at)stuarthutchison
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Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:47 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

G'day all,



Has anyone found a convenient after-market supplier for the D-Sub pins with

an oversize butt that Garmin include in some installation kits?  The Garmin

part number is 336-00023-00 and they're physically longer with a larger

crimp cup to fit 18 AWG wire ... 



I want to parallel looms into a single connector ... and it seems that

paired 22 (and perhaps 20) AWG wires will fit in these pins.  Sadly I only

have three of them 



Kind regards, Stu



F1 Rocket    VH-FLY       http://www.mykitlog.com/RockFLY

www.teamrocketaircraft.com



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grosseair(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:56 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

I searched for them a few years ago and had almost no success. The only 

source I found wanted $5 each. You could try getting them from Garmin 

through one of their approved avionics shops.

John Grosse



Stuart Hutchison wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   G'day all,



 Has anyone found a convenient after-market supplier for the D-Sub pins with

 an oversize butt that Garmin include in some installation kits?  The Garmin

 part number is 336-00023-00 and they're physically longer with a larger

 crimp cup to fit 18 AWG wire ...

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stein(at)steinair.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 8:39 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

Most every shop has extras laying around because they almost never use all

of them supplied. Gimme a call if you need a few.



BTW, unless the runs are long an AWG20 wire will work fine in place of an

AWG18.



Cheers,



Stein 



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grosseair(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:08 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

OBTW depending on the crimper you have, you may need a different 

positioner to crimp the special pins. Another option for your 

application might be to join your two wires into a "Y" either with a 

soldered joint or a pidg fastener then connecting the single end to your 

DB-X. It would be bulkier but easier.



John



Stein Bruch wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Most every shop has extras laying around because they almost never use all

 of them supplied. Gimme a call if you need a few.



 BTW, unless the runs are long an AWG20 wire will work fine in place of an

 AWG18.



 Cheers,



 Stein

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:29 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

At 10:31 AM 1/25/2012, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



Most every shop has extras laying around because they almost never use all

of them supplied. Gimme a call if you need a few.



BTW, unless the runs are long an AWG20 wire will work fine in place of an

AWG18.


	


   You beat me to it my friend. I will also suggest that it's

   perfectly okay to peel a few strands out of the "too large"

   wire to get them all into the 20AWG crimp cup of a standard

   pin. You'll have to leave the bare strands exposed over a

   greater length because the insulation will not go down

   into the wire opening of the connector. Experiment with

   an extra pin and a chunk of wire to establish the new strip

   dimensions.



   When somebody calls for putting overweight wires into

   a d-sub connector, the design goal is to REDUCE WIRE

   PATHWAY IMPEDANCE. Putting the larger wire into the

   pin does not increase the pin's current handling

   ability. Hence my suggestion for peeling out extraneous

   strands is not a technically 'evil' thing to do in

   terms of the physics. It would have an immeasurable

   impact on design goals that called for the larger wire.



   I think this is preferable to the FAT pin. It adds

   no bulk to wiring immediately behind the connector

   and leaves less exposed conductor.



   However, pulling this trick in an ISO/FAA/PP driven

   TC aircraft shop would probably get you fired or

   at least a 'ding' in your employment record.

   Bob . . .

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stuart(at)stuarthutchison
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:30 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

Thanks for your help everyone.



The current-carrying capacity of the wires isn't a factor in my installation

.. they're only carrying signals or minor currents off to relays.  The

Infinity grips have a mix of 17 different 22AWG and 20AWG wires each, but I

have already terminated each of those wires at a 25-pin D-Sub connector. The

two grip functions are wired in parallel for the most part, so my aim is to

connect both FWD and AFT grips via a "Y" loom terminating at one 25 or

37-pin D-Sub connector to mate with a main central loom.   The "Y" loom will

be fabricated entirely of 22AWG wires (disgregard the AWG ratings in my

pic), but I thought it would be more convenient to use 18AWG pins where the

wires come together at the top connector, rather than trim or fold away

strands so that 2 x 22AWG wires fit into 20AWG pins.  As Bob said, 2 x 22AWG

wire insulation won't fit in the connector and makes pin removal difficult,

so I thought it would also be more convenient to use 18AWG pins for this

reason (but I haven't tried removing them).



I found 18AWG pins at this site (bottom of the page), but they're asking $2

each ... http://www.aircraftelectronicssupply.com/garmin_install_supp.htm



Cheers, Stu

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 9:28 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

At 06:24 AM 1/26/2012, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Thanks for your help everyone.



 I thought it would also be more convenient to use 18AWG pins for this

 reason (but I haven't tried removing them). 	


    Hmmm . . . hadn't thought about that. I'm not sure they

    CAN be removed with the legacy extraction tools.



    Given the complexity of your stick grip wiring I think

    I would give serious thought to building an etched

    circuit board for the relay-deck and stick-grip-junction-

    box.



    Your mating connectors then solder to the board. The

    board can mount the relays and perhaps a speed adjustment

    system. the mating connectors get 'really clean' with

    respect to materials and techniques.



    Express PCB has free software and really reasonable

    prices on double-sided, plated-thru boards laid

    up and ordered via your computer.



 [img]cid:.0[/img]



 

   Bob . . .

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BGray(at)glasair.org
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 9:54 am Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

Stu,



On a personal preference note, it's generally not a good idea to put any

function on a control stick that, if inadvertently activated, would in

danger the aircraft. In your particular application, I would put engine

start and flaps in that category.



Bruce

WWW.Glasair.org 



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stuart(at)stuarthutchison
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject: Larger D-Sub pins

Thanks Bob,

  

 Good  idea.  I think I'll go ahead and make a parallel wire loom now, then  replace it with a PCB later (when I have more time) ... after all, we never  really stop working on our boys toys do we !! 

  

 Thanks  Bruce,

  

 My  circuit tracks out to a TCW Safety Trim and TCW Intelligent Flap  Controller, so the flaps can't be oversped (i.e. they can't be extended above  95kts) and my stick grip start button is off to the right where it's out of the  way of my fat fingers  A taildragger F1 Rocket is capable of dragging  itself across the ground (braked) at about 2000 RPM and is relatively  easy to tip over, so I want one hand on the throttle and one  hand holding the stick right back during start.  All of the copilot  stick functions can be turned off by the pilot to avoid back seat  embarrassments.

  

 Cheers, Stu

  

  



   From:  owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com  [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert  L. Nuckolls, III

Sent: Friday, January 27, 2012 4:25 AM

To:  aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: RE: Larger  D-Sub pins

 

At 06:24 AM 1/26/2012, you wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Thanks for your help    everyone.



I thought it would also be more convenient to use 18AWG pins    for this

reason (but I haven't tried removing  them). 	


   Hmmm . . . hadn't thought about that. I'm  not sure they

   CAN be removed with the legacy extraction  tools.



   Given the complexity of your stick grip wiring I  think

   I would give serious thought to building an  etched

   circuit board for the relay-deck and  stick-grip-junction-

   box.



   Your mating  connectors then solder to the board. The

   board can mount the  relays and perhaps a speed adjustment

   system. the mating  connectors get 'really clean' with

   respect to materials and  techniques.



   Express PCB has free software and really  reasonable

   prices on double-sided, plated-thru boards  laid

   up and ordered via your computer.



[img]cid:843234002(at)27012012-2C8B[/img]



 

  Bob . . .

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