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Nose Wheel Bearing

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Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Hello All.

Tri gear nose wheel bearing, are they a standard size, if so what is the size of the bearing, and where to obtain the bearing.

Regards.

Alan.

PS. Have you checked your nose wheel bearing for wear,

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pjeffers(at)talktalk.net
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Posted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 11:33 pm Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Absolutely bog standard size bearing easily available from amongst others

'Bearing Traders'. Take the duff one in and ask for equivalent.  They are

about £14 each.

Pete



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budyerly(at)msn.com
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Posted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:38 am Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Alan,

 On my www.customflightcreations.com site under the techniques tab is a list of the spares and sources for routine maintanence for use by my owners in .PDF format.

 

 

 Regards

 Bud Yerly

 

 

 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

 

 On Mar 19, 2015 4:28 PM, Alan Carter <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> wrote: 

  --> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net>

 

 Hello All.

 Tri gear nose wheel bearing, are they a standard size, if so what is the size of the bearing, and where to obtain the bearing.

 Regards.

 Alan.

 PS. Have you checked your nose wheel bearing for wear,

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439629#439629

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 3:51 am Post subject: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing

Thanks Guys,

As you may know i am not a builder, but have down loaded a diagram of the nose wheel , I  see it has tapered roller bearings, which as far as i can see the outer shell is bonded to the actual 2 parts of the wheel hub,

The wheel component is made in two parts and bolted together to make the wheel complete, and if necessary unbolted to split the wheel in order to repair a tyre puncher,

If the outer shell of the bearing is bonded to these two wheel hubs you can not split the wheel apart the bonded bearing shell holds it togeter ,, well not quit true you need heat, and i don,t fly with a blow torch in the back of the plane.

I am not an engineer either, but why could there not be two smaller width bearing used, each being bonded to its respected half wheel hub, so each contains its own bearing and can be split apart easily .

Also bonding why bond, surly there are bearing with( don,t know what you call it ) but say 3 projected lug  locators so as to drop into a located hub housing to prevent the outer shell from turning.

I like 5 minute bearing changes,



Please comment and inform me of the why not,s . Basically I would just like some explanation to satisfy my own mind, I may tend to see thing to simple.   



I believe a mod has already  been  worked out for the nose wheel which I am also looking into, and may have done,

Alan

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budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 5:26 pm Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Alan,

Be sure to note Matco MFGs. website or my website on the proper way to 

torque wheel bearings.  The inner race must not move (rubber seal does not 

rotate).



The nose wheel is a Matco unit also.  The easy method of fixing the bearing 

is by axle nut torque with the inner race locked to a flange on the inner 

race.  Tough to do on a nose wheel.

The old style NG06 axle (the smooth one with the dumb spacers), is a piece 

of cake to maintain.



To remove the axle from the wheel on a used aircraft:

No torches.

Put the wheel flat on a large vice or a couple of thick timbers across the 

wheel rim with the axle in the slot.  Whack the end of the axle with a dead 

blow or wood mallet.  The bearing will pop right off with no damage.  Flip 

the wheel over and hit the other side of the axle.  Both bearings are free. 

(I only drive one side off and clean and pack the other on the axle).



Take a single edge razor or a razor knife, and take off the Loctite, clean 

with a bit of acetone.  Pack the bearings as usual.  Clean the inner race of 

any grease.



Do not use a lot of Loctite 638,  a small drop or two is sufficient on the 

bearing.

Slide on the other parts and slip into the yoke.  In 15 minutes, go fly. 

(Realistically, do the mains next.)

So it takes 6 minutes to do a nose axle grease job.



If you desire, buy the new axle with a nut on the Europa website.  Matco 

basically copied this design.  See their website.  Europa Loctite's on the 

nut, and Matco came up with a new nut with a set screw in it.  The axle now 

has a slot.  This was incorporated on the RV10.  Loctite works.



Split wheels on aircraft (not ultralights) are split rims due to structural 

concerns.  Our main wheels only hold 650 pounds of aircraft weight, right. 

WRONG, these wheels are designed for impact loads exceeding 4000 lbs of 

force.  Hence the 1.25" bearings (stronger), the centrifugally cast wheels 

with the extra meat on the bearing race areas are needed.  Bearings must be 

rigidly in contact with their races and not rotating on the axle to meet the 

structural load conditions.  No bearing wiggle or slop.  In fact, properly 

seated, the wheel is a bit draggy.



Split wheels are a pain, but strong for their weight.  I highly recommend my 

clients put a piece of one inch heavy paper ring on the inside of one of the 

wheels to prevent pinching the tube when assembling the wheel.  If my guys 

in the shop pinch a tube not using the paper safety ring, they pay for it.



Hope this sheds some light on the wheels.



Regards,

Bud Yerly



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Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:19 pm Post subject: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing

Hi Bud.

Hope the weather is good to you this year.

Many thanks for your detailed post on my nose wheel, it is nice to receive

and thanks for your time it is much appreciated . My plane was Number 96 a Mono, finished in 2000 so guess it the early axial , After about 30 hours and a couple of prop strikes, it had the Mono Tri Conversion carried out by Europa Aircraft Com, My guess  is a Mono Tri Conversion Leeds to  a stronger aeroplane than the standard Tri gear, just my guess i am not a builder ,

Regards.

Alan

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budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Alan,

The trigear install is brutally strong.  Done by any competent builder it is 

as strong as an F-4 tailhook.

Bud



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Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 10:42 am Post subject: Re: Nose Wheel Bearing

Hi Bud,

Change of topic, I am not a builder but I look closely how things are made, and I will say I think I could have made a better job of some design components.

I have 25000 hour and are not going to damage anyone's aeroplane by giving it a little wiggle, which I have found a number of common wear and tear, just little things like the wear In the stablator hinges, and plastic cups on the control arm. seems to wear more on the port side.

Wish some one produced a list of common wear in components one could check.

However I have also noticed on a few planes a small hair line crack some Europa's have it  on both sides and some one only one side, running up from the corner of the fusalarge of wear the spare slides into the fuselage, I would say it just a crack in the jell coat and of no structural relevants  caused by flexing of the skin, 

Have you come across this before.



Regards

Alan

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budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:24 pm Post subject: Nose Wheel Bearing

Alan, and others:

I have an 8 year old aircraft as many of you do, with many small cracks 

chips and dings in my finish.  What is good and what is bad requires 

inspection.  Builders are more aware of the amount of filler on their 

aircraft and can easily tell if the crack is in the finishing material or 

structure.  Note that gel coat tends not to crack but the filler certainly 

does.  That said, impact damage can show as a spider crack in the finish 

where the urethane paint fails as well as the gelcoat.  Blisters and 

de-laminations are to be attended to immediately.



As a builder I am the manufacturer, and am responsible for my checklists, 

ops procedures, determining go no go, equipment lists etc.  Second hand 

owners must secure a knowledgeable aviation mechanic to determine the 

condition of the aircraft.  As a pilot, It is my job to do a proper 

preflight, system and control checks as we did as professional pilots.  As a 

second hand owner, you are not normally a qualified maintainer so asking 

questions is the right thing to do.  Comprehensive lists of wear items on an 

airplane means some company has done extensive mean time between failure and 

ISO tests to determine life spans of components.  You will NEVER get that in 

experimental or general aviation.  If the mechanic says its OK, and you 

don't think so, don't fly was our rule as commercial pilots.  As an airplane 

owner you should be aware of ADs, SBs, SIs, and Mods affecting your aircraft 

to alert your mechanic.



Typically I see the following:

Cracks around the door sill area created by pushing hard on the sill on 

entry and exit.  (Solved by putting in a diagonal from the sill to the side 

making a triangle.

Cracks in Trigears where our butts sit on the wing forward of the spar. 

This crack radiates along the spar from the wing fillet to the first rib and 

is in the filler that is along the transition between the solid spar and 

flexible skin.  This is an area never intended as a heavy duty walkway. 

(Solved by carbon fiber or glass over the filler from the root rib to the 

1st rib to prevent flex cracking.)

Cracks around tail tie down not properly reinforced or impact damage from 

nose high tail dragging landings.

Cracks in the rudder lower hinges due to smacking the stops.  (The filler is 

thick here often times and it can't take flexing without cracking.)

Cracks at the aileron hinge from full deflection aileron rolls (mild 

aerobatics). (Inspect after aileron removal for white line crack.  If so 

reinforce, both sides and repaint.)

I do not normally see cracks in the wing through hole area.



Most new owners abuse the wing sockets thinking they hold the wing during 

rigging.  They are a guide and alignment device, have your assistant hold 

the wing tip until the pins are in.  Do not slide the spar on the raw glass 

of the hole, it will cut the glass.  Install a stainless or phenolic sheet 

to protect the glass.  There should be no cracks in the wing box area or 

spar strap.



Aircraft with hard landing impacts or overstressing will show some skin 

bending in the wing area between the forward and aft pins and spar hole.  If 

the area is wrinkled or cracked, do a proper hard landing inspection.  Buy 

some touchup paint for sure if you have cracks as you may be grinding some.



Most new owners screw up the stabs because they were never taught how to 

properly put on a stab and take it off.  It amazes me that they grab the tip 

and just pull and wiggle.  That's a broken out bearing waiting to happen. 

Refer to the operators manual drawing on the figure installing the 

tailplane.  Do it vertical, but the hands are in the wrong position.  The 

lower hand should be able to balance the stab vertical and the upper hand is 

used to fine tune and rotate fore and aft to wiggle the tight tube without 

any bending on to the torque tube.  Slide the stab inboard until the inner 

bearing lightly contacts the tube and finesse it on the tube as you did the 

outer.  Hold vertical and slide the stab inboard until the skin is just 

short of the forward drive pin.  Rotate the stab short of horizontal and 

align the pins with the holes.  I move to the tip of the stab and by feel 

and eye can hit my stab holes easily then just a bit of a push to put it on 

to just contact position, insert your trim tab to the cross tube and then 

push on the tip to fully seat the pins in the sockets.  To remove, tilt the 

stab TE up, use the thumb against the fin and at the fingers cushioning the 

root flange with the other hand doing the same on the leading edge and 

simply push your thumbs against the fuselage.  The stab should pop out a 

bit, ease it back, disconnect the tab and use the same hand positions as 

installing, while easing it off.



Wear and tear are standard in aviation.  Get a good mechanic and spend the 

time / money to investigate, and repair.



All the talk about hinge wear means the pilot/builder/mechanic has not lubed 

the hinges consistently and there is some corrosion wearing the pin/hole 

which is fair wear and tear.  This is not a big problem.  Look at a 10 year 

old Piper and see how much the hinge pins move.

Solution is first to look at a new MS20001 series hinge and see how much 

movement there is (+.007-.010 brand new).  There is quite a bit, or down 

right sloppy movement.  Pin tolerance is .003 and has .003 anodizing and 

hole tolerance is .007  so seeing .013 wiggle after the anodizing wears off 

would not be uncommon.  That is a lot.  If you have 50% more than that, I 

would consider the down time and cut out the hinge and replace.  This 

happens in all airplanes.  People normally don't care on a civil airplane, a 

mechanic is required to check it, but on an experimental, they look for 

fault.  The fault is these items do corrode (pins are steel or stainless, 

the hinge is aluminum and dissimilar metals corrode) and wear.  Hinges are 

under smallish shear loads and a bit in normal force loads so I worry if I 

can pull the hinge back and see 1/4 of the hole.  Now that's bad.



Bushings wear, bearings wear, paint wears, tubing wears.  Fuel/oil line 

hardens (even teflon) and one bend makes a micro crack.  Nothing lasts 

forever.



I do a 25 hour progressive inspection of my aircraft at each oil change.  I 

start by reviewing my squawk list.  What can I fix.  While the oil is 

draining, I pull and lube the stab tubes, lube all the hinges, the throttle 

pivots, and door shoot bolts/hinges.  I use a syringe with a large non 

pointed tip, and Mouse Milk light oil.  Pop open the aft inspection plates 

and do a quick look over.  Pull the fuel access panels and look for leaks. 

Look for tracks of coolant, brake fluid or oil.  (My 914 lubricates the left 

gear leg and belly well when it sits quite a while and is nasty, so I clean 

it up.)  Flip up my wheel ts and look over my pads, brake lines, bearings 

and service the tires.  I roll the plane fore and aft and check my bearings 

are not spinning on the axle.  (Customers fly my planes and it gets hard use 

at times.)



At 100 hours or annual, I fly the aircraft and write down everything for the 

squawk list that is wrong or questionable.  Land and wash the plane and go 

over the aircraft and engine Mod/SB/SI list with a fine eye.  Pull the cowl 

and all the inspection panels off and inspect carefully.  Clean the fuel 

system, change the expendables (plugs, filters, drain fuel,  wings and lube 

every MW bearing, check the torque seal on every bolt, pull the wheels, 

inspect and repack the wheel bearings while reviewing my personal 

manufacturers condition inspection checklist I created for my plane.

My 100 hour inspection info is on my techniques page, feel free to modify it 

to your aircrafts particular needs.  However, in a second hand aircraft, 

your mechanic may have other items he is keen on checking for his go no go 

items.  Work with your mechanic and set your inspection interval and go no 

go wear limits as I have.  Everyone's standards are different..  I could 

care less about a spar cup being sloppy, but am hard over about stab torque 

tube pins allowing the stabs to move independently of each other over 1/4 

inch at the TE or with the TE up and the mass balance just touching, I push 

up lightly and check if the inner pins allow movement.  Cracks should be 

investigated always.  Scrape away the sides and look at the glass.  If it's 

OK fine, or fill sand and paint.  At 5 years rip out the hoses, replace 

wheel bearings, and brake pads, recondition disks, check the calipers for 

corrosion of the pucks, etc.  Look up your engine, airframe parts and make a 

list of everything you are worried about and increase your inspection time 

frame if you need to.  Then fix it properly.  If you fix everything It will 

be like flying a new plane every day.  If you choose to do the minimum 

amount of maintenance, the plane will deliver the minimum.  I still haven't 

added options/upgrades I have wanted from 8 years ago.  It seems working on 

clients aircraft defeats my zest for experimentation on my own.

Enjoy your aircraft.



Regards,

Bud Yerly



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