brubakermal(at)yahoo.com
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 Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:15 pm Post subject: trailor on barnstormers |
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if you go to my web site youll find a slide show of the trailor
I have for sale $1,600
Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
Michigan Sport Pilot Repair
http://michigansportpilotrepair.com
LSRM-A, PPC, WS
Great Sails - Sailmaker
for Ultralight & Light Sport
(989)513-3022
From: Lowell Fitt <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim Actuator
Re: Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim Actuator Dave,
I think that is what I would do. I helped a guy finish a Series V with a 7 Firewall Forward kit. It had the center console. It was an old kit and the previous owner had run some cheap automotive wire to the trim actuator. I had to replace that and it was a chore. Yes, I ran it under the baggage area and it might be a good idea to run the wire to the bulkhead, then leave enough length and do the final routing after fuel lines and cables. As I recall, with the rudder cables and flap control tube moving around it was a bit tricky running the fuel line and the wire so there would be no chance of chafing. Not that there is inadequate room, but finding hard points to secure the lines so there wouldn't be a chance of movement. I think that is one disadvantage of the console - what is down there remains hidden until each annual - more on that later. Actually the console was a bit of a challenge as the shut off valve and the rocker switch were mounted to it and had to be connected after installation through the access holes.
As another thought. I have a hearing disability and to enhance the ATC communication, I mounted a mini stereo jack and USB port to the seat back which will support a Blue Tooth unit to my hearing aids. Like the console, I thought it would be good to be able to remove the seat for annual inspection with minimal effort. With that in mind, I cut an oval hole in the center of the seat back and mounted the two electrical outlets to a metal fitting that clamps to the cross tube that supports the seat back. The fittings are accessible through the cutout. This way, removing the seat is just a matter of cutting the Zip Ties. I didn't think of this with the Series V, but I wonder if a bracket could be made up that would support the fuel valve and rocker switch that would be mounted permanently to the floor boards and cut a hole in the console top so the console would not be the support, but just a cover and could be removed simply by removing its securing screws. As I think about it, it was this part that caused the chafing worries as I planned the whole thing, but wasn't really certain what it really looked like under there as it took a flashlight and mirror to see. Thinking about it reminds me why it took about six months to finish this project which essentially only had the wiring and plumbing to do. Most was redone, though and the plumbing was a nightmare, but that is another story. I like inventing things and one thing - totally off the subject - I made up for him was a cowl flap assembly that would allow him to open and close the NACA duct for radiator air and temp control. Haven't heard how if works.
Lowell
From: david van lanen (davevanlanen(at)sbcglobal.net)
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 7:48 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com (kitfox-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim Actuator
Thanks for your suggestions Lowell. I was hoping to avoid using conduit, as it adds weight, and this is a 2-wire sheathed cable anyway, which provides added stiffness and wire protection. So the bottom stringer idea is a possibility. Am I correct in assuming that you routed your wiring under your baggage compartment? Based on your note regarding the crowded conditions at the seat front, it sounds like it would be best if I only route the wire as far as the rear of the cockpit for now, and then finish the routing to the console when the other systems are in place.
Regards,
Dave
Time: 07:40:21 AM PST US
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim Actuator
Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim ActuatorDave, Mine is a Model IV, but I have trim on the rudder and elevator plus the aft position lights there. Just for a couple of ideas, My first Model IV I drilled some cross holes through the bottom stringer that I then
tied the wire bundle to. I did the same on a current IV project. That
would put the wires where you want them for a console run. I put connectors on the wires so in the event of servo or lighting issues, I could simply unplug the units and put them on the bench. I know of some who have run different types of tubing to the back so wires could be run through it, something like the conduit electricians use. Some have used rigid PVC and others have used the black poly landscaping irrigation tubing. Another guy ran rigid aluminum tubing (maybe 3/8") where he wanted the wires go go and tied the wire to the outside of that. A thought on the console run - it gets quite tight right at the bulkhead at the seat front. you will have flaps, rudder cables, fuel lines and wires going through there. To allow for free control movement and prevent chafing, it will require a bit of planning. Some sort of conduit there might be a good idea.
Hope this helps a bit.
Lowell
From: david van lanen
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2012 9:58 AM
Subject: Routing Of Wiring For S7 SS Trim Actuator
I am building a Series 7 Super Sport, and I am at the point of
installing the electro-mechanical trim actuator. Can anyone who has
completed their aircraft provide me with any detailed advice on the best
way to route the wiring from the tail through the fuselage to the switch
on the console?
Thanks,
Dave
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