robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
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 Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:50 am Post subject: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder. |
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I have to decent from the Rudder Trim observation. I LOVE having my rudder trim. Maybe because we design a trick one for the 10 & 8A but if you want the plane perfectly coordinated in most phases of flight (I never bother on climb out) having an adjustable rudder trim is nice. One note, I included a position sensor which is indicated on my G900x for the 10. After flying for a while I figured out we already have a position indicator called the slip ball. On the 8A I just installed the servo, no position sensor or indicator needed just center the ball. Duhhh
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:21 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder.
Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto.... and that's all I have to say.
Don
From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 7:53 AM
Subject: A few reflections at 115 hours from a very happy builder.
Just a few thoughts that may be of some value.
Rudder Trim: Not really needed
I've been climbing and cruising at full power. I've been descending at high and low power settings. I've found that the 'natural' friction of the rudder control system will hold the necessary trim in typical calm cruising conditions. The lightest pressure on the right rudder will handle things for initial climbout. Though I've made provisions for a spring type rudder trim, at this point I don't see any reason to install it.
Trimming for roll: The elevator trim tabs have a significant effect on roll trim
As we all know or will find out, the elevator trim tab setup is disturbingly asymmetric in operation. Not a problem, just strange. When doing the final setup, there are some guidelines for how this asymmetry should be handled. What I've found is that a few turns of the clevis at one trim tab can have a noticeable effect on roll trim. So if you seem to require the aileron trim to be set one way or the other, consider a small adjustment of the elevator trim tabs. You can make noticeable changes while still staying within the guidelines for general setup. On a related topic....
Building a 'straight' airframe: This plane just 'snaps' together.... it really does (this is a QB statement). There isn't a significant bit of jigging required anywhere to build a straight aircraft.... with one possible exception... or maybe it was just me. The one task I initially screwed up was drilling the elevator horns. I screwed it up so badly that a complete rework was required with the gracious help of my Tech Counselor. But even with the rework and a second chance to get it right, I ever so slightly screwed it again. That is, my elevators are ever so slightly misaligned. Grrrrr! I'm living with it now and it's all okay (see "trimming for roll"). But, take time and care with the drilling of the elevator horns!
Economy: LOP ops Rock! I'm getting far better economy from the 260HP efficient '10 than I ever got from my 180HP Maule... in all regimes. No surprise in retrospect but I just didn't expect it. Long term effects of LOP? I'm confident it's the best thing I can do to my engine. Time will tell.
Overall: For this pilot It's hard to imagine a better 4 place homebuilt cruiser than he '10. Easy and fun to fly, great performance in all respects, roomy, good looking, etc, etc. I don't have that much experience in that many aircraft to make credible comparisons so I'll just leave it at that. One thing it doesn't do well is flying in the convective chop that is common on most sunny days. The nose hunts all over the place, especially in yaw. I try not to give rides in the middle of the day or below 4k to 6k on a normal Carolina day.
So What!
Bill "happily buzzing at 6 months and 115 hours" Watson
#40605
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