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Rotax 914 Oil Change
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Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:41 pm Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hello All,



I plan to do an oil change, this is my first attempt so any comment you may have, I have made up this little check list for my own benefit. 



0. Run engine and warm up oil.



1. Turn prop and get the Rotax gurgle to return oil to tank ,  Check level before and after gurgle.



2. Unlock wire and Remove plug to Drain the Oil , Check the plug for particles, (as soon as the Oil Stops a running flow re plug)  



3. Refit Plug with a new crush washer gasket making sure the line in the washer is towards the head of the plug.



4 Lock wire up and check around all OK.



5. Refill with Fresh Oil to top level on dip stick, this completes the oil change and prevents any further system drain .  



Now the Oil Filter needs to be changed .



6. Remove Filter, (check for particles later by cutting open the filter with oil cutting tool) ,



7. Fill new oil filter with oil and refit, to hand tight, paint check mark when tight. (some oil may spill over when re fitting as it contains new oil)



This completes the new Oil Filter Fitting.



8.Turn the engine over with the Prop about 20 turns. Recheck levels and leaks.



9. Start and run engine, shut down engine and recheck  Levels and leaks. 



The Oil i have is â€ Skydrive Aerolube 10W40 Semi Syntheticâ€ , I ordered 12 litres at the time, as i plan to change oil every 50 hours.



not sure if this is the best oil, but understand it is approved by Rotax.



Alan

Thom Riddle

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1597
Location: Buffalo, NY, USA (9G0)

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 3:12 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Alan,



A few comments:



Change the oil filter while the tank is empty, not after you refill the tank.



Trying to fill the filter with oil will result in a mess when you turn it to screw it on. Don't bother.



Coat the gasket on the new oil filter with a thin film of oil (with your finger) so it doesn't bunch up when tightening past point of contact.



The magnetic plug is on the side of the gearbox. The oil tank drain plug is not magnetic. Check the gearbox magnetic plug while the tank is empty.  IMPORTANT: Unless your engine has the newer external hex head style magnetic plug, the old  internal 6 point style is NOT an allen type. It is a TORX type requiring a TORX tool to remove. If a previous "mechanic" used an allen type tool it is likely stripped beyond repair. In this case removal requires use of a screw extractor. The old style magnetic plug should be replaced with the newer hex head style for future ease of mag plug checking.



Oil use should be one of those specified by Rotax in their manuals, if available. If not, then a good quality 4-stroke motorcycle oil intended for motorcycles with combined engine and gearbox oil supply, like the Rotax engine. Aviation oil is not the proper oil for Rotax 912 series engines.

_________________
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)

Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous

Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:36 am Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Alan,

  I would suggest you safety the oil filter to prevent it from  loosening in flight. I had a filter almost spin off on me. I tightened it  properly prior to this event. There are a couple of posts on this forum about  guys losing their engines because of this happening.

  I drilled a small hole in a case flange below the filter then used a  very large hose clamp with Adel clamp rubber over the clamping strap (a bit  confusing to describe)

  Anyway the clamp is tightened at the base of the filter and safety  wired to the case.

                                                              

                                                                    Dick Maddux

                                                                     Milton,Fl

 [quote][b]

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 7:48 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hi Alan,



Where do you live? (My money says the UK?)



Seems from your oil change list you have a pretty good handle on the oil change. I see that Skydrive semi synthetic oil is on the Rotax oil list. You must live out of the US because I have never heard of it. If I were you I would pick the Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 over this oil as the Aero Shell was made for the Rotax and the Skydrive is an after thought and a substitute where suitable oils may not be available around the world. You need to now start thinking of the Rotax like a motorcycle engine and not an aircraft one and you will have a better understanding of the 912 Rotax.

Use any good semi synthetic or full synthetic motorcycle oil. That said if you use 100LL it has to be a semi synthetic oil. A full synthetic will not suspend the lead and it will fall out in the crankcase and gearbox and everywhere else you don't want it. If you can stay away from 100LL. Use the full synthetic with unleaded auto fuel. Never rotate a prop once you drain the tank or have the filter off. Don't forget the magnetic plug every oil change. It is either a #40 Torx or a 16mm hex head.



Here are few a few oils to choose from:

Full synth;

Amsoil 10-40W motorcycle oil

Mobile One Racing 4T 10-40w motorcycle oil



Semi synth;

Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 (MFG in the UK and very common and made with the 912 in mind)

Golden Spectro 4

Honda GN4



The new Rotax oil filters now have a check valve in them which prevents pre-filling and it will go on dry. Do as you said and rotate the prop 20 times to help fill. The oil filter can come off before or after oil is put back into the reservoir because the filter has oil in it no matter what. Change it though before rotating the prop. As far as filters coming unscrewed. Several of the filters in the past that have come unscrewed were not a Rotax for one and some were of the old style. There have been at least 3-4 Rotax filter changes over the years. If you put the filter on as prescribed you won't have an issue. If it was a problem with the hundreds of thousands of 912's world wide Rotax would have you safety wire. I have never seen a Rotax filter come off by itself if properly applied. Screw it on until it makes a soft contact, then thread it on another 270 degrees or 3/4 turn.  I usually need an oil wrench to get that last little tweak in the 3/4 turn and can't remove it by hand without the oil wrench if it's on tight enough. If you can grab the filter by hand and easily unscrew it you haven't put it on properly. I usually need oil filter pliers to remove it. Do not get in the habit of using pliers on the canister or anything else as I have seen a few times where the canister gets crushed, pin holes and cracks. There is a solid metal ring at the base of the filter that you can use your oil pliers if you use them. Many can't use the oil wrench that fits over the end of the filter because of the exhaust is in the way.



Here is the Rotax video site that shows how to change oil, changing the oil filter and checking the magnetic plug.



http://www.rotax-owner.com/information-reg/expanded-video-instructions-reg



p.s.

I know Dick isn't going to send me a BD card this year on the safety wire part.   

Sorry Dick for the differing opinion.

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:49 am Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Roger,

  The oil filter on my engine that tried to unscrew itself was a Rotax  filter(albeit the old style just before the newest one) I have only used the  Rotax filters and followed the written service procedure closely. I'll  stick with safety wiring  the filter on my aircraft .

  Also the NEW filter with the" internal oil  valve "  worked fine on my airplane for about a month.( Kitfox 4) It stopped the  siphoning in my taildragger but  now it  allows the oil to drain  back into the case just as the old one did. Have you had this problem  ?  This is the first new style filter I have used. Guess I will  go back to the old ones I have in stock...what a bummer !

  Keep the good words coming

                                      Dick Maddux

                                      Milton,Fl

                                      912UL

  

 [quote][b]

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:48 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hi Dick,



Hope you aren't getting either drowned or fried with the heat and weather this summer.



There is nothing wrong with the safety wire on the filter and I have seen only one on a Sport Cruiser, it just shouldn't be necessary. The one I saw was a hose clamp around the filter with the safety wire attached to that.



The check valves and the newer anti drain back membrane in the filters were added because of a few planes like the Kit Fox oil tank positioning. I'm sure Rotax was hoping to have this annoyance solved with the new filter. I would try another new filter at the next change and if the problem comes back again I'm sure Rotax would like to hear from owners about this. If it doesn't get reported it can't get fixed. Fill out a Rotax SIR report and send it into the Rotax Safety and Flying Club that handles all this paperwork. If anyone has a problem that wasn't owner caused then I would always encourage them to send in a report.

It's the only way Rotax can get feedback in a timely manner.



 http://www.rotaxflyingclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/SIR.pdf



www.rotaxflyingclub.comhttp://www.rotaxflyingclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/SIR.pdf

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 4:24 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hello Thom,Dick,and Roger.

Yes i am in the UK, or England as i like to call it as i am the last Englishman now 66years old. i live in the South East in the county of Kent which use to be called the Garden of England, but all the Hop Fields, Apple Fields, Plum Fields, ete have long gone.

This is my first aeroplane , a Europa 914 Biult in 2000 so i am the new boy in town.



1. I will check what drain plug i have , and the tool for undoing it.

If is not a magnetic  type plug i will try to get a new one.

As for the tool to loosen the filter i have a universal rubber strap,tool.

Maybe better to get the right tool as i will be doing it a number of time, i hope.



2.I have 2 Oil Filters Part Number 825010 (012) for 912 and 914

Not sure if its new or old type, But i like the idea of filling it with Oil even if it is a bit messy.

The filter will probably stay on but i think i will put a strap round it and wire it up.



3. The Oil . I have already purchased 12 litres of the Skydrive Aero lub 10/40. Semi Synthetic oil. so will have to use it up over the next 150 hours. then go for Aero Shell.

I fly on Unleaded Mogas , but will do a oil change every 50 hours regardless. 



4. The Gear Box magnetic Plug, ?? Will have to look for it.! 

Does it require a new washer ??



6. I purchased the plain from a guy who i think spent very little on the aircraft, and probably did nothing from one annual check to the next. You get that Gut feeling. I paid about Â£ 3 or 4000 over the top but in the UK few Tri Gears come up and i could be 67 before the next one.



Regards

Alan

Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hi All.

Today  armed with my new tool box i  completed  the  Oil and Filter change also Air filter.

Things did not go as planned.

I found the Drain Plug was a 19mm Hex plug and not a magnetic plug,?

My new Torque wrench has a 1/4" square head, and my 19mm socket is 1/2" and there was no reducer in the tool box, so ended up guessing 25nm of torque,?

Tried to undo the Oil Filter by Hand, then used a filter strap tool which ended up with the strap breaking , Finally had to use a grip wrench this pieced the filter with oil running out and i finally managed to slowly unscrew the filter, replaced with a new one which i had placed a large jubilee clip around it so as to wire lock it, Don,t think it needs it after the trouble i had removing it,!!!!

Now the Magnetic Gear box Plug, was unsure of its location, but noted a wire locked nut, just above the oil filter, since have confirmed this is correct. However i did not touch it.

It has a type of Allen /Torx  screw, and i bet its never been removed.

I have all new oil in the engine and no leaks, 

Can i have a go at removing this Gearbox plug, its probably going to be difficult, What tool do i need, and if i can,t move it , what do i do.?? Hot , Cold, ?????? Releasing agent,???



As for the Oil tank magnetic plug, On the market i have seen a magnetic clamp that goes on the side of the filter bowl, "the magnets are so strong you can not pull it off by hand"

the magnets are directional and Shielded on the outside, expensive at about Â£70

Has anybody used them.



Alan

klinefelter.kevin(at)gmai
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

I suggest you go to Rotax-owner.com and subscribe. All the info you need in video. I'm sure you will have all your questions answered in an easy to see and understand way.



Kevin

On Sep 11, 2012, at 5:44 PM, "Alan Carter" <alancarteresq(at)onetel.net> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Hi All.

 Today  armed with my new tool box i  completed  the  Oil and Filter change also Air filter.

 Things did not go as planned.

 I found the Drain Plug was a 19mm Hex plug and not a magnetic plug,?

 My new Torque wrench has a 1/4" square head, and my 19mm socket is 1/2" and there was no reducer in the tool box, so ended up guessing 25nm of torque,?

 Tried to undo the Oil Filter by Hand, then used a filter strap tool which ended up with the strap breaking , Finally had to use a grip wrench this pieced the filter with oil running out and i finally managed to slowly unscrew the filter, replaced with a new one which i had placed a large jubilee clip around it so as to wire lock it, Don,t think it needs it after the trouble i had removing it,!!!!

 Now the Magnetic Gear box Plug, was unsure of its location, but noted a wire locked nut, just above the oil filter, since have confirmed this is correct. However i did not touch it.

 It has a type of Allen /Torx  screw, and i bet its never been removed.

 I have all new oil in the engine and no leaks, 

 Can i have a go at removing this Gearbox plug, its probably going to be difficult, What tool do i need, and if i can,t move it , what do i do.?? Hot , Cold, ?????? Releasing agent,???

 

 As for the Oil tank magnetic plug, On the market i have seen a magnetic clamp that goes on the side of the filter bowl, "the magnets are so strong you can not pull it off by hand"

 the magnets are directional and Shielded on the outside, expensive at about Ã‚Â£70

 Has anybody used them.

 

 Alan

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382905#382905

bob(at)fly-ul.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:11 pm Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

 	  Quote: 	
		  I found the Drain Plug was a 19mm Hex plug and not a magnetic plug,?


	


On the bottom of the oil tanki? That is correct. not magnetic



 	  Quote: 	
		  My new Torque wrench has a 1/4" square head, and my 19mm socket is 1/2" and there was no reducer in the tool box, so ended up guessing 25nm of torque,?


	


Don't guess or you'll end up breaking things. Get the proper tools before taking on this task the next time.



 	  Quote: 	
		  Now the Magnetic Gear box Plug, was unsure of its location, but noted a wire locked nut, just above the oil filter, since have confirmed this is correct. However i did not touch it.

It has a type of Allen /Torx  screw, and i bet its never been removed.


	


When you do remove it, replace it with the new-style plug. No more worries about torx heads stripping. And yes, check this magnetic plug each time you change the oil.



 	  Quote: 	
		  Can i have a go at removing this Gearbox plug, its probably going to be difficult, What tool do i need, and if i can,t move it , what do i do.?? Hot , Cold, ?????? Releasing agent,???


	


Why do you want to remove this?

 	  Quote: 	
		  As for the Oil tank magnetic plug, On the market i have seen a magnetic clamp that goes on the side of the filter bowl, "the magnets are so strong you can not pull it off by hand"


	


Why? Not needed. The engine has a magnetic plug built in.



Bottom line: Read the maintenance manual. The procedures are well documented. ALWAYS have the correct tool, including torque wrench. Use the proper torques. As someone else suggested, get all the info from rotax-owner.com.

--

Bob Comperini

e-mail: bob(at)fly-ul.com

WWW: http://www.fly-ul.com

Dick Maddux

Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 3:33 am Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Alan,

  I would highly recommend you find and take a course to  learn about this engine. Lockwood,Leaf,Miss Light aircraft,etc all offer them  here in the US.

  One of the things I learned in my course is that you can remove the  magnetic plug by using a large brass punch. You place it over the plug and smack  it with a hammer. The plug is tapered on the inside and this will help release  its grip on the case threads. Then you will be able to turn the plug  without messing  it up. Don't go overboard with the hammer as it is an  aluminum case.

  Then you can replace the plug with the proper one.

  An accurate inch lb torque wrench is really necessary with this  engine by the way.

                      Have fun !

                                          Dick Maddux

                                          Milton,Fl

                                          912UL

 [quote][b]

peteohms

Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 224
Location: Leander, TX

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:56 am Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

I had a problem getting my magnetic plug out the first time.  You might try this:  Heat the case around the plug with a heat gun.  Take a can of electronic component cooler and use it to cool down just the plug. Use the proper torx to remove the plug.

Pete



On Sep 12, 2012, at 6:32 AM, Catz631(at)aol.com (Catz631(at)aol.com) wrote:



[quote]     Alan,

  I would highly recommend you find and take a course to  learn about this engine. Lockwood,Leaf,Miss Light aircraft,etc all offer them  here in the US.

  One of the things I learned in my course is that you can remove the  magnetic plug by using a large brass punch. You place it over the plug and smack  it with a hammer. The plug is tapered on the inside and this will help release  its grip on the case threads. Then you will be able to turn the plug  without messing  it up. Don't go overboard with the hammer as it is an  aluminum case.

  Then you can replace the plug with the proper one.

  An accurate inch lb torque wrench is really necessary with this  engine by the way.

                      Have fun !

                                          Dick Maddux

                                          Milton,Fl

                                          912UL

  	  Quote: 	
		  

	


[b]

_________________
Pete
Leander, TX
Kitfox III, 912ul, Grove

Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:49 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hello All

Robert thanks for Photo,

Mine looks the same ,It is the wire locked type as in photo, I suspect it has not been removed for some time as i can see no mention of it in the Engine logs,

The Torx may be rounded at the edges, i will check and get the correct tool.

It would be nice to have all the tools and facilities available but i have to do the best with what if got, the engine now has fresh oil +filter +Air filter and cleaned so better than before, but maybe not perfect.

I will have a go tomorrow at removing the Magnetic Plug.

1, What type of spanner is used on the latest version plugs ?   

2,Is they a Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Mod  used, ? 



Alan

bob(at)fly-ul.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 11:50 am Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

 	  Quote: 	
		  1, What type of spanner is used on the latest version plugs ?   


	


http://www.cps-parts.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1332

 	  Quote: 	
		  2,Is they a Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Mod  used, ? 


	


No. No magnetic plug on the bottom of the oil tank is needed.



--

Bob Comperini

e-mail: bob(at)fly-ul.com

WWW: http://www.fly-ul.com

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:24 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hi Alan,



Your welcome to give me a call anytime and I can save you a lot of frustration and maybe keep you from any damage.

The older magnetic oil plug on the side of the case just above the oil filter is a number 40 Torx. There are a couple of ways to break it loose the first time. First make sure the Torx head is tapped all the way to the bottom of the magnetic plug. Have someone with the wrench hold quite a bit of pressure to unscrew it, then with a hammer and a rod rap stiffly on the edge of the plug only. With 1-2 raps it will always come out. If you have stripped the Torx then it can come out 3 ways. One is to use an easy out or the better ways are, use a small set of vise grips and grap the metal edge of the magnetic plug and rap on the center with your hammer. If all else fails take a Dremel Tool with  re-enforced cut off blade and slot the magnetic plug head then use a large flat tip screwdriver. I have never had one I couldn't take out.



The new hex head is a 16mm head. Whatever you do don't put it back in as tight as the factory. It only needs not to leak and safety wire it.  You should never have to crack it with a hammer or mess it up taking it out again.



I'm with Bob, no mag plug needed on the oil tank.



I'm with the other guys here. Join the www.rotax-owner.com forum. It has videos of the common things you may do, including the oil change. Doing the oil change wrong like getting air into the system can cause very expensive repairs.

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

Thom Riddle

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1597
Location: Buffalo, NY, USA (9G0)

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:44 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Roger,

I had one customer with a particularly difficult mag plug removal and tried all the techniques you mentioned without success. This one required use of an "easy out". Sometimes the last resort is the only way it will work.

_________________
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)

Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:41 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

What I have seen in the field are owners not striking the plug hard enough on its edge. I don't mean to wail on it, but little taps don't do it either. It's a fairly sharp rap.

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

Alan Carter

Joined: 02 Jul 2012
Posts: 378
Location: Kent, England.

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 1:05 pm Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Hello All.



I have managed to free the magnetic plug, it was a sod of a job as the key hole was not in good shape and had a job to decide if it was Torx or Allen Key.

I eventually decided Allen key, first tool just bent up, tried long handle Allen key and could see the key shaft bending,

I  applied heat and cold then releasing agent plus a long socket drive with with Allen key and it free, this all took about 3 hours,

The plug had some filing stuck to it, nothing solid but particles, wiped clean and refitted, I will order a new type plug for next time.

Will check it again in 10 hours, and use the new plug. The engine is on a Flydat recorder and has done about 440 hours the Airframe about 340 hours, i have to idle for 5 mins before shut down on each flight to cool the turbo, so warming up and shutting down takes between 10 to 20 minutes.

so the gap keeps getting bigger.

I have New Oil, New Filter, New Air Filter, Clean Magnetic plug, and a clean  engine and cowling's.

I can not achieve a perfect job,ie having the particles analysed ete ete,  so have to accept its far better than before.

My next job will be a complete Hose change maybe this winter.



Thanks guys for all your Help.



Alan

BARRY CHECK 6

Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:33 pm Post subject: Rotax 914 Oil Change

Roger:



What are the Plug's threads made of?

What is the material that the plug is being threaded into?

Is there a Heli-Coil in the case for the plug?

Barry

 

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 9:41 AM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>

 

 What I have seen in the field are owners not striking the plug hard enough on its edge. I don't mean to wail on it, but little taps don't do it either. It's a fairly sharp rap.

 

 --------

 Roger Lee

 Tucson, Az.

 Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated

 Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated

 Home [url=tel:520-574-1080]520-574-1080[/url]  TRY HOME FIRST

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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:51 am Post subject: Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change

You would not want to damage the threads. I have never seen threads damaged taking it out. If you hand thread it back in it won't get stripped. It is in the case side and not the gearbox. There is no crush washer and is only a metal to metal seal. So if you were to screw the threads up it would be very expensive to fix.

_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

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