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Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail?

 
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:53 pm    Post subject: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? Reply with quote

My strobes suddenly stopped flashing.

Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that power
was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak
documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged one
in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit.

Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+ volts
to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about 8
volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I
checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection
points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I couldn't
correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition, I would
occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again, no
correlation with my wriggling.

I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug
compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as
well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated that
the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit would flash
the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into under-voltage mode.

I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP
slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit. I
replaced it and now everything works fine.

Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG

Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to cut
half way thru it but it looks solid.

Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable
voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp.

Thanks,
Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson


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chris_hand(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? Reply with quote

I had the same problem and indications at about 100 hours flight time. I replaced the connectors, carefully making sure they were good and got same results not long after....actual problem turned out to be the toggle switch on the panel (1-3 style Carling switch, as described in Bob's book). The rivet holding one of the tabs on back of switch had loosened and that tab was loose, apparently creating a high resistance connection. The connector at the switch was also blackened from overheating.
I replaced the switch and check tabs on all my switches regularly. Has worked fine since then.
Might not be your issue, but that was my experience so worth checking.

Chris

On Sep 20, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:

Quote:


My strobes suddenly stopped flashing.

Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that power was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged one in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit.

Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+ volts to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about 8 volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I couldn't correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition, I would occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again, no correlation with my wriggling.

I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated that the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit would flash the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into under-voltage mode.

I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit. I replaced it and now everything works fine.

Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG

Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to cut half way thru it but it looks solid.

Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp.

Thanks,
Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson






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mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest





PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:17 pm    Post subject: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? Reply with quote

Are you saying that a loose connection at a switch was smoking other connections on the circuit? Interesting

I noted that the current wiring diagram from Nova has power being supplied on an unswitched circuit. They have a separate control circuit for switching the strobes on and off. Don't know if that's relevant but it was different than than circuit for the older Avi-Pak unit. I'm wondering if supplying unswitched power to the unit with a separate circuit for on/off function is preferable for some reason.

Bill Watson

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 20, 2012, at 9:24 PM, Chris Hand <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> wrote:

Quote:


I had the same problem and indications at about 100 hours flight time. I replaced the connectors, carefully making sure they were good and got same results not long after....actual problem turned out to be the toggle switch on the panel (1-3 style Carling switch, as described in Bob's book). The rivet holding one of the tabs on back of switch had loosened and that tab was loose, apparently creating a high resistance connection. The connector at the switch was also blackened from overheating.
I replaced the switch and check tabs on all my switches regularly. Has worked fine since then.
Might not be your issue, but that was my experience so worth checking.

Chris

On Sep 20, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:

>
>
> My strobes suddenly stopped flashing.
>
> Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that power was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged one in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit.
>
> Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+ volts to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about 8 volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I couldn't correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition, I would occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again, no correlation with my wriggling.
>
> I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated that the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit would flash the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into under-voltage mode.
>
> I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit. I replaced it and now everything works fine.
>
> Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation:
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG
>
> Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to cut half way thru it but it looks solid.
>
> Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson
>
>
>
>







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chris_hand(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:17 pm    Post subject: Why did this AMP crimp on connection get singed and fail? Reply with quote

Yes, I had AMP spade connectors behind the baggage compartment bulkhead where my power supply is mounted and those are what I found "smoked" initially so replaced them, tested the p/s and didn't look behind the panel. When the problem repeated, I checked the length of the wire run and found the AMP connector at the switch burned as well and that's when I found the bad switch. Not really sure what caused what, but I replaced the switch with a new one and installed new connectors and it has worked fine for the last 200 hours with no sign of overheating.

Pictures of connectors in my installation that I found overheated initially are in 3rd photo on page at following link:

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg6.htm#photo3

Chris

On Sep 20, 2012, at 9:14 PM, Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:

Quote:


Are you saying that a loose connection at a switch was smoking other connections on the circuit? Interesting

I noted that the current wiring diagram from Nova has power being supplied on an unswitched circuit. They have a separate control circuit for switching the strobes on and off. Don't know if that's relevant but it was different than than circuit for the older Avi-Pak unit. I'm wondering if supplying unswitched power to the unit with a separate circuit for on/off function is preferable for some reason.

Bill Watson

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 20, 2012, at 9:24 PM, Chris Hand <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
> I had the same problem and indications at about 100 hours flight time. I replaced the connectors, carefully making sure they were good and got same results not long after....actual problem turned out to be the toggle switch on the panel (1-3 style Carling switch, as described in Bob's book). The rivet holding one of the tabs on back of switch had loosened and that tab was loose, apparently creating a high resistance connection. The connector at the switch was also blackened from overheating.
> I replaced the switch and check tabs on all my switches regularly. Has worked fine since then.
> Might not be your issue, but that was my experience so worth checking.
>
> Chris
>
> On Sep 20, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> My strobes suddenly stopped flashing.
>>
>> Stumbling through some basic problem determination, I checked that power was getting to Avi-Pak 60W Strobe power supply. Per the Avi-Pak documentation I unplugged all 3 of the strobe connectors and plugged one in at a time to check for a defective strobe unit.
>>
>> Everything check out okay except that sometimes I was getting 12+ volts to the power supply and other times I seemed to be getting about 8 volts. Thinking that I may have had a loose connection somewhere, I checked the circuit's voltage while wriggling various connection points. The voltage sometimes change from 12+ to 8 volts but I couldn't correlate the change with any of my wriggling. In addition, I would occasionally get a flash or two from the strobes. But again, no correlation with my wriggling.
>>
>> I replaced the Avi-Pak unit with a general purpose, almost plug compatible unit from the manufacturer, Nova. It failed to work as well. However, it has some diagnostic lights on it which indicated that the unit was getting less than 10 volts. At times, the unit would flash the strobes for a few seconds, then go back into under-voltage mode.
>>
>> I finally found the culprit while examining my fuse panel. The AMP slide on connector for the strobe circuit was singed or burned a bit. I replaced it and now everything works fine.
>>
>> Here are some pics of the connector after I had slit the insulation:
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%201.JPG
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%202.JPG
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/60509998/Burned%20crimp%203.JPG
>>
>> Everything about the crimp appears fine to me. I used a band saw to cut half way thru it but it looks solid.
>>
>> Any thoughts about what would cause the singeing and the variable voltage? I'd like to understand what went wrong with this crimp.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bill "owner of 2 working strobe power supplies" Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>







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