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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
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 Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 2:19 pm Post subject: Air box mod to fix filter deformation |
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All,
This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A.
Over the years with the RV-8A I’ve had to repair the air box and replace the filter. As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms (curves in). This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out of the top and impairs the seal with the top plate. I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom.
The fix was to add a .032” aluminum plate to the bottom of the air box. The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape. A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install. I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom.
Carl
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denis.walsh(at)comcast.ne
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:27 am Post subject: Air box mod to fix filter deformation |
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An excellent post. I would like to add a few comments. From the pictures, it appears to be the same as for my carburetor Lyc 180 HP, in my RV-6A. I would highly recommend that all who have the O-360 air box do this modification, and also replace the filter when it no longer fills up the air box space, just as you did.
My experience with the K&N filter and air box on my 180 HP O-360A1A was very similar. While mine did not curve, it definitely shrank, which presented the same problem. the vertical shrinkage caused a "failure to seal" at the top. The diameter also shrank. The combination of the two caused the filter element to have a lot of rattle space within the air box enclosure.
As the years went by, i noticed the bottom of the fiberglass box was showing a lot of wear, and the filter element was apparently shrinking! It seemed to rattle around in the box a little more, each time I opened it up for its 100 hr cleaning and re oiling.
My first action was to install a bottom plate, which looks just like yours, although i used a heavier thickness. It helped seal the top and bottom but did not help the "shrinking radius" problem. Nonetheless I did notice a reduction in the silica amount on my next oil analysis.
Later on, I noted the shrinkage problem as such and replaced the filter with a new one.
At this point I was able to hold the new filter next to the new one and verified it had indeed shrunk in all dimensions! Strange but true.
I wish I could give you a time estimate on how long between filter changes but I can't. This type thing I just replace on condition. I believe I am on my third filter at 2,830 hours. So I would guess they lasted around a thousand hours each. I will note that they were in great condition otherwise. Those things will last forever, if you clean them gently.
It may well be unrelated that my air box is sealed like yours, and the fact that my engine is still purring at 2,830 tack hours, but on the other hand it may have helped?
D Walsh, RV 6A, flying for 15.5 years.
On 3Nov, 2012, at 4:18 , Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | All,
This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A.
Over the years with the RV-8A Ive had to repair the air box and replace the filter. As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms (curves in). This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out of the top and impairs the seal with the top plate. I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom.
The fix was to add a .032 aluminum plate to the bottom of the air box. The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape. A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install. I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom.
Carl
<Airbox mod #1.jpg><Airbox mod #2 10-30-12.jpg><Airbox mod #3.jpg>
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[quote][b]
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billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 9:07 am Post subject: Air box mod to fix filter deformation |
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Please remove billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com (billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com) from your email list. He passed away on October 29, 2012.
Thank you.
The Dean Family
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2012 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: Air box mod to fix filter deformation
An excellent post. I would like to add a few comments. From the pictures, it appears to be the same as for my carburetor Lyc 180 HP, in my RV-6A. I would highly recommend that all who have the O-360 air box do this modification, and also replace the filter when it no longer fills up the air box space, just as you did.
My experience with the K&N filter and air box on my 180 HP O-360A1A was very similar. While mine did not curve, it definitely shrank, which presented the same problem. the vertical shrinkage caused a "failure to seal" at the top. The diameter also shrank. The combination of the two caused the filter element to have a lot of rattle space within the air box enclosure.
As the years went by, i noticed the bottom of the fiberglass box was showing a lot of wear, and the filter element was apparently shrinking! It seemed to rattle around in the box a little more, each time I opened it up for its 100 hr cleaning and re oiling.
My first action was to install a bottom plate, which looks just like yours, although i used a heavier thickness. It helped seal the top and bottom but did not help the "shrinking radius" problem. Nonetheless I did notice a reduction in the silica amount on my next oil analysis.
Later on, I noted the shrinkage problem as such and replaced the filter with a new one.
At this point I was able to hold the new filter next to the new one and verified it had indeed shrunk in all dimensions! Strange but true.
I wish I could give you a time estimate on how long between filter changes but I can't. This type thing I just replace on condition. I believe I am on my third filter at 2,830 hours. So I would guess they lasted around a thousand hours each. I will note that they were in great condition otherwise. Those things will last forever, if you clean them gently.
It may well be unrelated that my air box is sealed like yours, and the fact that my engine is still purring at 2,830 tack hours, but on the other hand it may have helped?
D Walsh, RV 6A, flying for 15.5 years.
On 3Nov, 2012, at 4:18 , Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
[quote] All,
This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A.
Over the years with the RV-8A I’ve had to repair the air box and replace the filter. As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms (curves in). This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out of the top and impairs the seal with the top plate. I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom.
The fix was to add a .032” aluminum plate to the bottom of the air box. The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape. A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install. I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom.
Carl
<Airbox mod #1.jpg><Airbox mod #2 10-30-12.jpg><Airbox mod #3.jpg>
ollow target=_blank>http://www.aeroelectric.com/
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