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Opinion please
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Ed Godfrey



Joined: 05 May 2009
Posts: 47

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:07 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Listers,
I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.

[img]cid:part1.09070902.03010401(at)ameritech.net[/img]


Ed Godfrey
40717


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mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:30 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

As I recall, the shiny parts are where they missed with the peel ply. The matte areas are where they properly did lay down some peel ply. On mine, there were bits of peel ply that didn't get peeled. Application of a flame will quickly char and burn it away (thanks Dave).

The whole mishmash of finishes had me so vexed that I decided to cover it all with fabric so I don't have a clue as to what to do except to cover it.

Bill

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:

Quote:
Listers,
I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.

<IMG_1404.JPG>


Ed Godfrey
40717


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philperry9



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:33 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Oh wow.  That photo nearly made me turn green as my stomach rolled over.  It's like looking at an old photograph you can't stand.

With all the fiberglass stuff, you want to sand the high spots off first and then fill the lows second.  So get out the sanding block and sand it down until you're left with a few obvious low spots and then fill those.

You'll probably want to mark the lows with a sharpie (so you know where they are) and then rough them up with sandpaper so the filler will have something to bond to.  It won't stick to a shiny surface very well.

Phil


On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 4:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net (egodfrey(at)ameritech.net)> wrote:
Quote:
Listers,
     I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.

[img]cid:part1.09070902.03010401(at)ameritech.net[/img]


Ed Godfrey
40717



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philperry9



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Yeah.  I have sanded mine down (and filled it too) to the point where I at least like the profile of the cabin top.

I'm using Geoff's headliner in the back.

2 weeks ago I covered everything that Geoff's headliner didn't cover with blue painters tape.  Then a couple of coats of wax.  Then two layers of carbon.  (Had to use carbon to get it stiff enough).  And I built inserts that I will wrap in headliner material and velcro against the inside of the cabin top.

I'm still in the finishing processes of it, but I'm going to be on the road for a next 3 weeks.  I won't know exactly how it turned out until Dec.

Phil
On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)>

As I recall, the shiny parts are where they missed with the peel ply.  The matte areas are where they properly did lay down some peel ply.  On mine, there were bits of peel ply that didn't get peeled.  Application of a flame will quickly char and burn it away (thanks Dave).

The whole mishmash of finishes had me so vexed that I decided to cover it all with fabric so I don't have a clue as to what to do except to cover it.

Bill

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net (egodfrey(at)ameritech.net)> wrote:

> Listers,
>      I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been     suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.
>

Quote:
<IMG_1404.JPG>
>

>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Bill's right, that's most likely an area that never had peel-ply over it.  If it does turn out to still have some on it, you should be able to get ahold of an edge and tear it off.  In that area, it wouldn't hurt to just leave some peel ply there but that's not really the best practice.  It looks to me like it's just plain glass though.

I'd sand it with some 80 grit and finish it however you like.  That's another way to find the peel ply--if the edges ball up when you sand it, you'll know it's peel-ply.

I painted some of those hard-to-finish areas with truck bed liner.  Turned out pretty well.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL


On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 4:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net (egodfrey(at)ameritech.net)> wrote:
Quote:
Listers,
     I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.

[img]cid:part1.09070902.03010401(at)ameritech.net[/img]


Ed Godfrey
40717



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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 5:43 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Ed,

As others have mentioned, there are multiple solutions available. My first recommendation is to get the Aerosport Products headliner from Geoff. That will cover 2/3 of the cabin cover. You won't have to sand or fill anything covered by the headliner. If you get his overhead console, that will even cover up more area.

I used USC Auto Body Icing, but there are other similar products available. I found it easier to work with than plain micro. There is a fair amount of filling and sanding to get everything smooth.

Just don't attach the cabin cover to the fuselage until the end. It's a lot easier to work on upside down on the bench.

Bob
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:

Quote:
Listers,
I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.

<IMG_1404.JPG>


Ed Godfrey
40717


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aerosport1



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:23 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill
As required. It will take 2-3 days and a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better
Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything
Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.

FWIW

Geoff
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> wrote:

Quote:


Ed,

As others have mentioned, there are multiple solutions available. My first recommendation is to get the Aerosport Products headliner from Geoff. That will cover 2/3 of the cabin cover. You won't have to sand or fill anything covered by the headliner. If you get his overhead console, that will even cover up more area.

I used USC Auto Body Icing, but there are other similar products available.. I found it easier to work with than plain micro. There is a fair amount of filling and sanding to get everything smooth.

Just don't attach the cabin cover to the fuselage until the end. It's a lot easier to work on upside down on the bench.

Bob
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:

> Listers,
> I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.
>
> <IMG_1404.JPG>
>
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717








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Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
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robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:47 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

I came to the conclusion that we had to fill, sand & paint once we opted for the OH console. I just could not imagine dealing with a headliner and transitioning from headliner to all the window cut outs as well as the OH console and potentially all the switches, vents, lights... That was my version of K.I.S.S. and in this case less is more. I am still happy with the choice. Of course my preference as always is to have Geoff figure it out first and then follow suit but we started building too soon. Smile
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Console.aspx
The painted lid and Aerosport Products interior panels gets you one nice interior.

Robin


--> <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>

I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill As required. It will take 2-3 days and a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.

FWIW

Geoff
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> wrote:

Quote:


Ed,

As others have mentioned, there are multiple solutions available. My first recommendation is to get the Aerosport Products headliner from Geoff. That will cover 2/3 of the cabin cover. You won't have to sand or fill anything covered by the headliner. If you get his overhead console, that will even cover up more area.

I used USC Auto Body Icing, but there are other similar products available.. I found it easier to work with than plain micro. There is a fair amount of filling and sanding to get everything smooth.

Just don't attach the cabin cover to the fuselage until the end. It's a lot easier to work on upside down on the bench.

Bob
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:

> Listers,
> I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.
>
> <IMG_1404.JPG>
>
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717








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aerosport1



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 6:57 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Follow exactly what Robin did and then add then add headliner if you wish. As Robin said less can be more.

Geoff

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 10:46 PM, Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> wrote:

Quote:


I came to the conclusion that we had to fill, sand & paint once we opted for the OH console. I just could not imagine dealing with a headliner and transitioning from headliner to all the window cut outs as well as the OH console and potentially all the switches, vents, lights... That was my version of K.I.S.S. and in this case less is more. I am still happy with the choice. Of course my preference as always is to have Geoff figure it out first and then follow suit but we started building too soon. Smile
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Console.aspx
The painted lid and Aerosport Products interior panels gets you one nice interior.

Robin


--> <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com>

I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill As required. It will take 2-3 days and a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.

FWIW

Geoff


Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> wrote:

>
>
> Ed,
>
> As others have mentioned, there are multiple solutions available. My first recommendation is to get the Aerosport Products headliner from Geoff. That will cover 2/3 of the cabin cover. You won't have to sand or fill anything covered by the headliner. If you get his overhead console, that will even cover up more area.
>
> I used USC Auto Body Icing, but there are other similar products available.. I found it easier to work with than plain micro. There is a fair amount of filling and sanding to get everything smooth.
>
> Just don't attach the cabin cover to the fuselage until the end. It's a lot easier to work on upside down on the bench.
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>> I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.
>>
>> <IMG_1404.JPG>
>>
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>
>
>
>
>
>














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Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033
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philperry9



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Oh boy.  2-3 days???

I must be doing something terribly wrong.  I'm 2-3 months into sanding, filling, and shaping.

I must be too much of a perfectionist, because it looks like it still has work to do according to my eye.

Phil


[quote] > --> RV10-List message posted by: "g.combs"
> --> <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com (g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com)>
>
> I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill As required. It will take 2-3 days and  a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
> If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
> Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.
>
> FWIW
>
> Geoff
>
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2012 6:25 am    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

took me 6 months to complete the doors.. it was painful, Now is a good time to tell you when you get this done do NOT fit the doors without the seals on first. It will take another month to get them to close correctly if the doors are installed without them first.

From: Phillip Perry (philperry9(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2012 8:08 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Opinion please


Oh boy. 2-3 days???

I must be doing something terribly wrong. I'm 2-3 months into sanding, filling, and shaping.

I must be too much of a perfectionist, because it looks like it still has work to do according to my eye.

Phil


[quote] > --> RV10-List message posted by: "g.combs"
Quote:
--> <g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com (g.combs(at)aerosportmodeling.com)>

I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill As required. It will take 2-3 days and a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.

FWIW

Geoff





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johngoodman



Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:00 am    Post subject: Re: Opinion please Reply with quote

2 to 3 days is bull. Try 2 to 3 months. I'm retired and I was out there every day. The most I could stand was about 4 to 5 hours of sanding & filling.
John


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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:40 am    Post subject: Re: Opinion please Reply with quote

johngoodman wrote:
2 to 3 days is bull. Try 2 to 3 months. I'm retired and I was out there every day. The most I could stand was about 4 to 5 hours of sanding & filling.
John


John,

I think the difference of opinion may be in scope definition. The topic was talking about the interior of the cabin cover, not necessarily the doors and the exterior. Which I admit does take a significantly greater amount of time.

There is also a difference if you have a green versus a pink top. I don't think there are too many green tops still left in circulation, so that is good news.

I can tell you that I did finish the interior work on my cabin cover in under forty hours of effort. Additionally, I finished almost the entire interior, since it was my cabin cover that Geoff used as a mold for his headliners. It was glass smooth in preparation for making his molds.

With that said, I did have the proper tools, work environment, and mentoring. I did this at Geoff's shop and used his equipment. I suspect if I was doing this at home, without his guidance, it would have added another ten to twenty hours. For example, I found that sanding screens were more effective that standard sandpaper. They are more expensive, but allow you to get more work accomplished in a set amount of time. I also used a polyester filler instead of micro and epoxy, since these were more cosmetic changes and not structural. Remember the class that we attended at Dave Saylor's facility? We both learned some short cuts on trimming the cabin cover. Those tips probably saved me a few days of frustration with making the initial trim cuts.

Now we won't talk about the weeks I put into the doors and the sides of the cabin cover that were sanded flat by Van's that I had to rebuild back to follow the door contour. That was a royal pain in the rear end.

To summarize, those with experience are going to be more proficient. While those of us newbies are going to take longer unless we get somebody to mentor us and show us all their tricks of the trade. Your already flying, so my advice isn't directed towards you. But if you're just starting building, try to hook up with somebody that has gone before you and learn from their experience. I'm five years into my build and about ready to fly and I'm still learning new things daily.

bob


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philperry9



Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 381

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:20 am    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

I'm at 2-3 months on the interior and still not finished.

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 5, 2012, at 9:40 AM, "rleffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> wrote:

Quote:



johngoodman wrote:
> 2 to 3 days is bull. Try 2 to 3 months. I'm retired and I was out there every day. The most I could stand was about 4 to 5 hours of sanding & filling.
> John


John,

I think the difference of opinion may be in scope definition. The topic was talking about the interior of the cabin cover, not necessarily the doors and the exterior. Which I admit does take a significantly greater amount of time.

There is also a difference if you have a green versus a pink top. I don't think there are too many green tops still left in circulation, so that is good news.

I can tell you that I did finish the interior work on my cabin cover in under forty hours of effort. Additionally, I finished almost the entire interior, since it was my cabin cover that Geoff used as a mold for his headliners. It was glass smooth in preparation for making his molds.

With that said, I did have the proper tools, work environment, and mentoring. I did this at Geoff's shop and used his equipment. I suspect if I was doing this at home, without his guidance, it would have added another ten to twenty hours. For example, I found that sanding screens were more effective that standard sandpaper. They are more expensive, but allow you to get more work accomplished in a set amount of time. I also used a polyester filler instead of micro and epoxy, since these were more cosmetic changes and not structural. Remember the class that we attended at Dave Saylor's facility? We both learned some short cuts on trimming the cabin cover. Those tips probably saved me a few days of frustration with making the initial trim cuts.

Now we won't talk about the weeks I put into the doors and the sides of the cabin cover that were sanded flat by Van's that I had to rebuild back to follow the door contour. That was a royal pain in the rear end.

To summarize, those with experience are going to be more proficient. While those of us newbies are going to take longer unless we get somebody to mentor us and show us all their tricks of the trade. Your already flying, so my advice isn't directed towards you. But if you're just starting building, try to hook up with somebody that has gone before you and learn from their experience. I'm five years into my build and about ready to fly and I'm still learning new things daily.

bob

--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - FWF
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler




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aerosport1



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:49 am    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Let me clarify my statement again. I am talking about just prepping the
inside of the cabin top
For final paint. Not installing overhead consoles attaching doors, putting
light wiring in, GPS
Antennas ETC. Just finishing the inside of the cabin top. To before final
paint or primer stage.

This is also If you use a spray able body filler. Also the green tops are
way worse than the pink tops.
Using a DA sander with a screen type paper As Bob mentioned makes a big
difference.
Geoff Combs

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 12:19 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

OK, I'm green with envy!!!
I used a 4" angle grinder where they glopped (scientific term) the FG in
places inside my green top and to shape the door openings. I plan on
using a light color Zolatone to finish the inside and will concentrate
on a good paint base on the outside..
Linn .... wiring ... not flying

On 11/5/2012 2:48 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
Quote:


Let me clarify my statement again. I am talking about just prepping the
inside of the cabin top
For final paint. Not installing overhead consoles attaching doors, putting
light wiring in, GPS
Antennas ETC. Just finishing the inside of the cabin top. To before final
paint or primer stage.

This is also If you use a spray able body filler. Also the green tops are
way worse than the pink tops.
Using a DA sander with a screen type paper As Bob mentioned makes a big
difference.
Geoff Combs



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

I wish I had known about the Duratec product (a polyester grey surfacing
primer). The stuff works like I wished the epoxy based Dupont product I
used would work. I didn't use it on anything until after I finished.

The workability of the Duratec product makes all this work MUCH easier
and productive.

Bill

On 11/3/2012 10:23 PM, g.combs wrote:
Quote:


I recommend finishing the entire inside of the cabin top off like the outside of the airplane. Sand and fill
As required. It will take 2-3 days and a lot of elbow grease but when done it will look much better
Than doing minimal work. There is a spray primer called duratec the is a 2 part sprayable body filler. Once you work out the real bad spots and sand spray a good heavy coat on the entire inside of the cabin top. Block it out almost back to the raw fiber glass and do it one more time. Then it should be very close to final paint. Do all this before attaching the cabin top to the fuse.
If using a overhead console you can omit doing the area under the console but do everything
Else. Paint and complete entire cabin top install lights or what ever you want before installing.
Life will be much easier and the results will be very gratifying.

FWIW

Geoff
Sent from my iPad

On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> wrote:

>
>
> Ed,
>
> As others have mentioned, there are multiple solutions available. My first recommendation is to get the Aerosport Products headliner from Geoff. That will cover 2/3 of the cabin cover. You won't have to sand or fill anything covered by the headliner. If you get his overhead console, that will even cover up more area.
>
> I used USC Auto Body Icing, but there are other similar products available.. I found it easier to work with than plain micro. There is a fair amount of filling and sanding to get everything smooth.
>
> Just don't attach the cabin cover to the fuselage until the end. It's a lot easier to work on upside down on the bench.
>
> Bob
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 3, 2012, at 7:07 PM, Ed Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>> I am working on finishing the inside of the cabin top and I have a question about one area. In the attached photo, there is a shiny area on the vertical portion of the door opening. It has been suggested that it may be some remnants of peel-ply that was not removed at the factory. If that is the case, do I need to try to remove it, should I sand it away, or can I just use Superfil over it as it is? Thanks.
>>
>> <IMG_1404.JPG>
>>
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>



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Lew Gallagher



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 4:50 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Hey Bill/Geoff,

I'm always open to new stuff ... never heard of Duratec. I googled it, is
it DURA-707G? They have all kinds of products. I've used the Dupont/Nason
2K epoxy primer for many years, so I'm comfortable with the way it fills,
sands AND bonds with the finish coat. I don't want to be the first one to
put a new product under automotive paint only to find out later that it
doesn't adhere. I essentially agree with the primer war conclusions: use
the primer that the finish coat recommends.

Later, - Lew "looking for more specifics" Gallagher


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aerosport1



Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

Lew it is not a primer but a sprayable filler. You still need to put a primer coat on.
Never had a problem with it and have used it for years.

Geoff

Sent from my iPad

On Nov 5, 2012, at 7:49 PM, <lewgall(at)charter.net> wrote:

Quote:


Hey Bill/Geoff,

I'm always open to new stuff ... never heard of Duratec. I googled it, is it DURA-707G? They have all kinds of products. I've used the Dupont/Nason 2K epoxy primer for many years, so I'm comfortable with the way it fills, sands AND bonds with the finish coat. I don't want to be the first one to put a new product under automotive paint only to find out later that it doesn't adhere. I essentially agree with the primer war conclusions: use the primer that the finish coat recommends.

Later, - Lew "looking for more specifics" Gallagher









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Lew Gallagher



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
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Location: Greenville , SC

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:27 pm    Post subject: Opinion please Reply with quote

DURA-707G?

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